Hello,
I am a newbie and I just followed the write up about the 280zx turbo ecu upgrades from 300zx turbo. The part that I dont understand is FPR swap. I can not find the pin 108 on the ecu connector. Would anyone please assist? Thanks.

 

Welcome to ZDriver!

See attached pic, and you can download my ZIP file of all needed Z31T ecu swap info: https://www.zdriver.com/forums/showt...577#post284577

 

I just open the passenger side under the glove box, there are 2 blue relay. Which one should I get the black wire from? I think this is the last step before I crank the engine up. Thanks.

 

Neither... the fuel pump relay is green. Do you have a Haynes manual or FSM? I hope you aren't doing this w/o one....

 

So there are 2 green relays, cut the black wire from either one and tapping into pin 108. Thank you.

 

No... there's ONE green relay on the right side of the glove box a-pillar panel. ONE green fuel pump relay...

 

Nevermind.

 

And that means you found it?

 

It started for 1 min and shut down and never can start again. I flip the chopper wheel also and no improve. Below is what I did.
MAF: A=pin 30, B=pin 31, C= body ground, D=pin 26, E= pin 35, F= 12.

Cut wire on pin 33 and insert into slot 12.

Insert pin 34 and connect to + coil.
Insert pin 3 and connect to - coil.

Cut wire on pin 16 and tap into b/w wire going to fuel pump modulator.
Cut black wire from FPR and tap into pin 108. Very straight forward.

Please tell me if I am missing anything? Thanks.

 

instead of pin 108 going to black wire on PFR wire, I connected to the other end. Problem fixed, car start every time but not stay idle and if i let the gas pedal go, the engine stalled. Chopper wheel flippped back and forth but same issue. Adjust the throttle and still stalled with black smoke come out from the exhaust.

 

Excellent upgrade, car idle between 900 to 1000 rpm. Pick up very quick from a full stop. Passing on freeway also excellent. Gas mileage? I dont care. Thank you very much.

 

by using parts from Pick and Pull wrecking yard. Your help is very appreciated.

 

Lots of upgrades... the sky and your bank account balance are the limits.

There are tech tips and write-ups in our Tech area: https://www.zdriver.com/forums/240z-280zxt-s30-s130-tech-tips-275/

 

cost me around a little over 100 bucks to do the 280zx to 300zx conversion. Not bad for a big improvement.

 

One thing I noticed after the upgrades is it takes longer crank for the engine to start. Before, quick turn of the key and the engine fired up. Any advice? Thanks.

 

time for the car to get smog check. It failed for emission test, replaced new cat converter but no help. Anyone with this upgrade have passed california smog test? Maybe need to go back to stock. Thanks.

 

Why did it fail?

Details....

 

Still using 1980's technology. I'd like to see some dyno numbers on performance increases from the 280ZX to 300ZX upgrade. If you can't tune it you're still stuck with the factory base line. Better sensors? Yes but still not as good as the modern sensor setups and ECU brain power in a modern tunable setup. I guess for $100 it's a decent upgrade but when it comes to ECU's it's money well spent to upgrade to a modern setup.

A lot of times upgrading to a new 300ZX ECU is an improvement from having a better wiring harness and better connections/AFM issues thus getting rid of rough idle, etc.

 

Granted you would still be using 80's tech like Fricfrac said, but for how easy and cheap it is, it is a great mod for someone looking to convert to a system that you can atleast find parts for on their daily driver.

 

failed emission at the tail pipe test. The number are too high at 15pmh and 25mph on the dyno. Other than that, visually inspection passed. The car run and idle fine. Timing also correct. I am thinking about put back to stock to get it to pass but I lost the old Encoder Disc.

 

When I say "details", I mean... DETAILS.

WHAT NUMBERS ARE TOO HIGH? CO? Nox? HC's?

Help us help you!!!

 

The last column on the right I dont have the paper with me now but I think it the NO. Max is around 600 something, AVE is 300 something and my car measured over 900. After replaced the cat converter, re-test and the CO number jumped over 1100.

 

Scan a copy of the results when you can... there are reasons for why the engine puts out too much emissions:

1. High CO usually means it's running too rich (faulty AFM/MAF, CHTS, or O2 sensor).
   
2. High NOx usually means the EGR isn't working properly.
   
3. High HC usually means timing is too advanced, worn spark plugs, running too lean, or a toasted cat.

Also... did you put the cat through a few heat / drive cycles before taking it to get smogged? The cat needs to be broken in before it will function correctly.

 

I just want to making sure the z31 upgrade did not cause anything to failed the smog test. The rest I think I can figured it out. Anyone with this upgrade passed ca smog?

 

My car has passed CA smog in the past with the z31 upgrade.