quick_snail

Hi, My name's Alex, just yesterday i purchased a 1983 280zx turbo with the l28et. i am new to z's and I have a few questions. Any help is appreciated.


1. What oil weight and type should I use? Normally on boosted cars I have always used rotella made for turbo diesels. But not sure what works best with these motors.

2. Is it possible to put coilovers on it without switching out the subframe with a newer nissan?

3. Why the hell did nissan think it was a good idea to put the turbo manifold and intake on the same side of the motor? lol There's no way to do a top mount turbo setup. Also who makes manifolds for this car?

4. how hard is it to find a new dash?

5. Oil temp and pressure gauges not working.

6. Car is cutting out around 1500 to 2800 rpms. I have all new fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel lines, and ecu. So i checked the injectors, all are fine except six is a little iffy. Ive been told that cylinder 6 is always havoc on these cars, but could that be the reason for my car misfiring? Or what are the chances its the fuel rail? I did slowly adjust the timing because I had the car the guy had it all the way advanced. So i retarded it a little and it helped some but still occasionally at idle car will die and still cuts out between 1500 and 2800 rpms. Could it be that the distributor is a tooth off?




Again any help is appreciated!

WanganDevilZ

1. I always used 10w30, castrol syntec, thats just me though.

2. Search, it's been covered a few times, you may need some fabbing done, but Tokico Illuminas are the next-to-best than coilovers without doing any modding.

3. Good question. Another question I raised is why they put a scoop in the hood that rusts the crap out of the intake and the exhaust bolts (I've had to extract three now, past cylinder 5... damn scoop) Seemed like a good idea at the time for them?

4. A new dash? Whole new dashboard? Eh.. You'll pay out the bootyness for a "New" dash, but there are a few writeups, this is my favorite: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/s...=dash%20repair

5. More than likely the Oil Temp/Pressure sensors, or the connectors at the passenger side are possibly unplugged, have they ever shown movement?

6. Does it always bog down between this range? Or when it warms up? Only when it's cool?

quick_snail

hey thanks man.

and no those specific gauges have never moved.


and yes it always DID, me and my body were going all over the engine bay trying to figure out what was going on. so apparently the distributor can only be put on 1 way, so it can never be a tooth off, but then we retarded the timing a little. the distributor and cap were new so we inspected them, and they were bought seperately, because the contact tip on the rotor was grinding the teeth of the cap, so we grinded down the contact tip ever so slightly were it wasn't grinding anymore which fixed the bogging issue. although occasionally it does still cut out in that range and hesitates going over 3000 rpm.