nitrous questions / need help!!!!
10-03-2005 | 11:37 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 14
nitrous questions / need help!!!!
Im new to the whole nissan world and i just bought a 80 280ZX with engine L28 (completly stock) Automatic . I have a spare nitrous kit that came off my integra and im thinking of droping it on the Z.I know about nitrous but not about these cars.Im thinking of a 75 shot. so my questions are,
btw its a NOS brand and its a wet system. single fogger w/a fuel pressure safty switch and a purge kit. I just did a complete tune-up and im replacing the plugs to 2 deg. colder plugs.
whats the largest shot of nitrous I can do with out replacing my fuel pump?
can these motors take a 75 shot of nitrous without problems?
anything i might need to do to the car please let me know.thanx
btw its a NOS brand and its a wet system. single fogger w/a fuel pressure safty switch and a purge kit. I just did a complete tune-up and im replacing the plugs to 2 deg. colder plugs.
whats the largest shot of nitrous I can do with out replacing my fuel pump?
can these motors take a 75 shot of nitrous without problems?
anything i might need to do to the car please let me know.thanx
10-04-2005 | 03:51 PM
#2
The Good Twin
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 20,639
From: Wild Wild West, UTAH!
sky's the limit bro... I don't think that many people have hooked up a 75 shot of nitrous to a stock L28. In my opinion, a 75 shot is quite a punch to give to an L28... especially one thats got 125k+ miles. You said you've got experience w/ nos... what have u found on other engines?
10-04-2005 | 05:53 PM
#4
Head Muckraker
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 9,221
From: Bay Area
Ahhh... but it'll make those turbo's spool up SO much faster! 
It's a common mod on Turbo's. You set the switch to come on at WOT and shut off at 2800, 3000 or whatever rpm your turbo starts to make mad boost and you've effectively eliminated any turbo lag that might have been there.
It can be fun.
You're fuel pump won't be the problem, but your stock injectors will.
They don't flow much and are commonly replaced with Turbo 280ZX/300ZX injectors for mild applications and much bigger injectors for 'wild' applications.
It's a common mod on Turbo's. You set the switch to come on at WOT and shut off at 2800, 3000 or whatever rpm your turbo starts to make mad boost and you've effectively eliminated any turbo lag that might have been there.
It can be fun.
You're fuel pump won't be the problem, but your stock injectors will.
They don't flow much and are commonly replaced with Turbo 280ZX/300ZX injectors for mild applications and much bigger injectors for 'wild' applications.
10-04-2005 | 08:15 PM
#5
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 788
From: Layton, UT
As you mentioned, it's a wet-shot, which is a lot safer with the stock fuel system than a dry-shot.
I can't remember who it was on here, but they have a '79 ZX 5-speed with a 75-shot, MSD rev-limiter and ignition amplifier, as well as an exhaust and intake. Laid out 235hp to the wheels, if I remember correctly, after the nitrous system was re-jetted to a 100-shot. Wet, of course.
I say go for it. If your engine is in rather good condition, I don't see a problem. These engines are stout, so the chance of blowing one on such a small shot is pretty slim, unless the right fuel or ignition problems happens. As with any nitrous kit, tune it wisely, and err on the margin of safety. I'm sure you'll find that your Zed will respond to it quite well.
Good to see people with nitrous experience around nowadays ... most people have labeled it a "cheater" add-on, and therefore it's about dissapeared from street-cars that actually mean business.
[You can tell I'm a nitrous fan ... and I've installed a couple systems in the day .]
-Dave-O
I can't remember who it was on here, but they have a '79 ZX 5-speed with a 75-shot, MSD rev-limiter and ignition amplifier, as well as an exhaust and intake. Laid out 235hp to the wheels, if I remember correctly, after the nitrous system was re-jetted to a 100-shot. Wet, of course.
I say go for it. If your engine is in rather good condition, I don't see a problem. These engines are stout, so the chance of blowing one on such a small shot is pretty slim, unless the right fuel or ignition problems happens. As with any nitrous kit, tune it wisely, and err on the margin of safety. I'm sure you'll find that your Zed will respond to it quite well.
Good to see people with nitrous experience around nowadays ... most people have labeled it a "cheater" add-on, and therefore it's about dissapeared from street-cars that actually mean business.
[You can tell I'm a nitrous fan ... and I've installed a couple systems in the day
.]-Dave-O
10-04-2005 | 08:34 PM
#6
Head Muckraker
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 9,221
From: Bay Area
The official "How To Safely Use Nitrous" thread
Alright, since this board seems to be lacking in the nitrous department, I've decided to post an FAQ on nitrous and do a little rumor squashing for the nitrous newbies.... here goes:
Can I run Nitrous on my car?
The quick answer to that is yes. Nitrous can be run on every car known to man. No matter how many cylinders, strokes or mods you've done to it, you can run nitrous. Your motor can be 100% stock, you don't even need basic bolt-ons.
The trick is how to "safely" run it without destroying everything in the process. Mileage is not necissarily a concern, but it is a good indicator of the kind of wear your engine has. Either way, a compression or leak-down test must be run before using nitrous in any fashion. The compression numbers for each cylinder should be within the manufacturers specifications. Keep in mind that using nitrous (or any sort of forced induction) will create higher temperatures and cause premature wear of engine components. This doesn't mean your engine is going to blow up after a couple uses... it means more that instead of 300,000 miles out of your motor, you might get more like 200 or 250 before major problems occur. Also, any sort of aftermarket ECU chips or control modules that advance timing are not safe to use with nitrous. Due to the higher oxygen content in the air/fuel mixture when spraying nitrous, advancing the timing can cause predetonation and is what blows up motors.
Types of Nitrous Kits
There are several different ways to inject nitrous into an engine, from dry kits, wet kits, direct port, fogger plates... amongst others. I'm only going to go into the two most common systems, because if you were going to use one of the others, you'd better know your stuff or you'll probably mess something up...
Dry Kits
This is the simplest of the nitrous kits and the easiest to install. Dry kits consist of a single nitrous nozzle plumbed into the intake tube about six inches upstream from the throttle body. Extra fuel is provided by the injectors when the ECU's sensor detects an increase in oxygen in the Air/Fuel ratio. Some kits up the pressure at the fuel pressure regulator by using a nitrous pressure regulator to send a small amount of pressure to the FPR by way of vacuum to increase the pressure accordingly. (NOS is one of these kits). Although a dry kit can be set to produce any amount of horsepower, it is recommended to not jet past 75hp or half of the motor's stock hp, whichever comes first. This is due to the fact that because nitrous is injected through the intake manifold, it is not distributed evenly to the cylinders, while the fuel is being distributed evenly. therefore, some cylinders will see a more rich condition, while some will be more lean. A lean air/fuel mixture is what causes predetonation, and that blows motors. Some dry kits use only one solenoid, others use two.
Wet kits
Wet kits are basically the same as dry kits, except for the fact that while spraying nitrous, they also spray fuel. Wet kits use a fogger nozzle (named as such because it helps to mix the nitrous and fuel together while injecting). The fogger nozzle is mounted in the same place as the dry kit, six inches upstream from the throttle body. These kits use at least two solenoids, one for nitrous and one for fuel. Obviously, they're a little more difficult to install, but not as difficult as one might think. (it really just requires fuel system work and running new return lines and such... plus drilling into places some people are kinda afraid to drill into, in case they mess up). The principle is to rectify the uneven distribution of dry kits. It's still not perfectly even distribution of the mixture (as the fuel is more dense and heavier than the nitrous) but it works a little better than the dry kits to help prevent detonation. Think of a wet kit as just added insurance for your motor.
Other types of injection
these include direct port systems and plate systems, amongst a few less standard injection theory kits. these kits are designed to inject nitrous and fuel together, evenly, into each cylinder individually. I won't really go into much detail on these kits, cause they're installation is time consuming and much more work than the previous two... plus, it's a good idea to do some real motorwork with these kits as there's no point in using one of these kits if you just want a light HP increase. A lot of work goes into a kit of such stature, and shouldn't really be discussed here.
What should I do before running nitrous?
This really depends on what size shot you want to run. First, you'll need to run a compression test and be sure all your numbers are within spec. Second, familiarize yourself with spark plug heat ranges and also how to read them to determine combustion productivity (i.e. how well your ignition is working on burning the mixture). When you've done all that, now you can start building your nitrous powered motor.
For a 50 shot or less, all you really need is a set of colder plugs (one step colder than stock). On stock motors, the stock plugs are a six heat range, colder goes up in number, so you'll need a set of 7 heat range. You can keep everything else how it is, including ignition timing.
For 60 shots, again you'll need the colder plugs and you'll want to retard your ignition timing by a degree or two.
For 75 shots, you'll need the colder plugs (you might decide to go two steps colder now), and you'll retard your ignition by three degrees. Any other ignition-oriented mods you can do will be great, like a multiple spark discharge ignition (MSD), new performance plug wires, and a new distributor cap and rotor will all help increase the effectiveness of combustion. A shot of this size will likely blow out the stock clutch very shortly, so look into getting a stronger one designed for the other mods you have (a triple plate clutch is worthless to a virtually stock motor). It is also a good idea to upgrade the fuel pump to a unit that has a flow increase over the stock part. Also, if you find you're running too rich or too lean, pick up an adjustable fuel pressure regulator.
For 100 shots and higher, you'll need to do some serious work to the motor. Forged pistons and rods will be your first step. A performance head gasket should be installed as well. Also a progressive nitrous controller or a dual stage set-up would be ideal, so that you dont overpower the tires and lose traction upon jetting the system.
Purge valves
The point in a purge valve is not to look cool. If you want it for that, you can do a much more simple set up using C02 and get the same results. A purge valve is designed to purge the nitrous line of air, allowing a fresh supply of nitrous to the solenoids when you begin to spray. After purged, there are no delays in injection and no 'gaps' during spray. Purge valves come in a variety of styles, from single line to quad line to l.e.d. lighted. Using hydraulic air hose, you can pretty much mount the purge line to spray anywhere outside of the car to purge to the atmosphere. "stealth" nitrous kits generally choose to purge either down towards the ground under the car, or onto the intake manifold to help it cool a little, as the nitrous purge comes out very cold.
What's with the retarded ignitions?
hahaha, your ignition is retarded! nitrous powered engines will produce more power if the spark occurs later in the combustion cycle. It's proven. A good rule of thumb is to retard the ignition two degrees for every 50hp of nitrous.
What type of fuel should I use?
You should never use anything less than 91 octane fuel when using nitrous. NEVER. the lower the octane number, the more prone the fuel is to predetonation. like I've said before, predetonation is what blows up motors. Octane boosters might be a good idea if you can afford it, just cause the higher the octane, the more power you'll produce with nitrous. If you can find race gas... use it.
Anything else I should know?
Yeah. A lot. But you'll learn as you go really... but for now, know that the higher the pressure in the bottle, the more power you'll get out of it. Most people try to keep their bottle above 900psi. You can use a bottle heater to increase it and keep it steady, as use of the nitrous makes the bottle cold and decreases the pressure in the bottle, therefore decreasing power. Optimal pressure is between 1000-1100 psi. Be careful when using a bottle heater, as incorrectly wired ones have been known to overheat bottles, causing them to explode.
If you really want to get the most out of your nitrous set up and use it safely, invest in both fuel and nitrous pressure gauges, so you know their pressures at all times. Keep an eye on them while spraying so you'll know how well your car is doing with it.
Basic bolt ons like intakes, exhausts, and headers will help the nitrous system produce more effective power. You should look for an exhaust that has piping diameter of over 2.5". 3" is optimal. Same thing for the intake. With the intake, be sure it is the same size diameter as the throttle body for the most effective airflow. Plus, like I said before, any upgrade you can do to the igntion or fuel system will greatly increase the reliability and effectiveness of your nitrous system.
I think that's about it for the beginner's nitrous stuff.
Can I run Nitrous on my car?
The quick answer to that is yes. Nitrous can be run on every car known to man. No matter how many cylinders, strokes or mods you've done to it, you can run nitrous. Your motor can be 100% stock, you don't even need basic bolt-ons.
The trick is how to "safely" run it without destroying everything in the process. Mileage is not necissarily a concern, but it is a good indicator of the kind of wear your engine has. Either way, a compression or leak-down test must be run before using nitrous in any fashion. The compression numbers for each cylinder should be within the manufacturers specifications. Keep in mind that using nitrous (or any sort of forced induction) will create higher temperatures and cause premature wear of engine components. This doesn't mean your engine is going to blow up after a couple uses... it means more that instead of 300,000 miles out of your motor, you might get more like 200 or 250 before major problems occur. Also, any sort of aftermarket ECU chips or control modules that advance timing are not safe to use with nitrous. Due to the higher oxygen content in the air/fuel mixture when spraying nitrous, advancing the timing can cause predetonation and is what blows up motors.
Types of Nitrous Kits
There are several different ways to inject nitrous into an engine, from dry kits, wet kits, direct port, fogger plates... amongst others. I'm only going to go into the two most common systems, because if you were going to use one of the others, you'd better know your stuff or you'll probably mess something up...
Dry Kits
This is the simplest of the nitrous kits and the easiest to install. Dry kits consist of a single nitrous nozzle plumbed into the intake tube about six inches upstream from the throttle body. Extra fuel is provided by the injectors when the ECU's sensor detects an increase in oxygen in the Air/Fuel ratio. Some kits up the pressure at the fuel pressure regulator by using a nitrous pressure regulator to send a small amount of pressure to the FPR by way of vacuum to increase the pressure accordingly. (NOS is one of these kits). Although a dry kit can be set to produce any amount of horsepower, it is recommended to not jet past 75hp or half of the motor's stock hp, whichever comes first. This is due to the fact that because nitrous is injected through the intake manifold, it is not distributed evenly to the cylinders, while the fuel is being distributed evenly. therefore, some cylinders will see a more rich condition, while some will be more lean. A lean air/fuel mixture is what causes predetonation, and that blows motors. Some dry kits use only one solenoid, others use two.
Wet kits
Wet kits are basically the same as dry kits, except for the fact that while spraying nitrous, they also spray fuel. Wet kits use a fogger nozzle (named as such because it helps to mix the nitrous and fuel together while injecting). The fogger nozzle is mounted in the same place as the dry kit, six inches upstream from the throttle body. These kits use at least two solenoids, one for nitrous and one for fuel. Obviously, they're a little more difficult to install, but not as difficult as one might think. (it really just requires fuel system work and running new return lines and such... plus drilling into places some people are kinda afraid to drill into, in case they mess up). The principle is to rectify the uneven distribution of dry kits. It's still not perfectly even distribution of the mixture (as the fuel is more dense and heavier than the nitrous) but it works a little better than the dry kits to help prevent detonation. Think of a wet kit as just added insurance for your motor.
Other types of injection
these include direct port systems and plate systems, amongst a few less standard injection theory kits. these kits are designed to inject nitrous and fuel together, evenly, into each cylinder individually. I won't really go into much detail on these kits, cause they're installation is time consuming and much more work than the previous two... plus, it's a good idea to do some real motorwork with these kits as there's no point in using one of these kits if you just want a light HP increase. A lot of work goes into a kit of such stature, and shouldn't really be discussed here.
What should I do before running nitrous?
This really depends on what size shot you want to run. First, you'll need to run a compression test and be sure all your numbers are within spec. Second, familiarize yourself with spark plug heat ranges and also how to read them to determine combustion productivity (i.e. how well your ignition is working on burning the mixture). When you've done all that, now you can start building your nitrous powered motor.
For a 50 shot or less, all you really need is a set of colder plugs (one step colder than stock). On stock motors, the stock plugs are a six heat range, colder goes up in number, so you'll need a set of 7 heat range. You can keep everything else how it is, including ignition timing.
For 60 shots, again you'll need the colder plugs and you'll want to retard your ignition timing by a degree or two.
For 75 shots, you'll need the colder plugs (you might decide to go two steps colder now), and you'll retard your ignition by three degrees. Any other ignition-oriented mods you can do will be great, like a multiple spark discharge ignition (MSD), new performance plug wires, and a new distributor cap and rotor will all help increase the effectiveness of combustion. A shot of this size will likely blow out the stock clutch very shortly, so look into getting a stronger one designed for the other mods you have (a triple plate clutch is worthless to a virtually stock motor). It is also a good idea to upgrade the fuel pump to a unit that has a flow increase over the stock part. Also, if you find you're running too rich or too lean, pick up an adjustable fuel pressure regulator.
For 100 shots and higher, you'll need to do some serious work to the motor. Forged pistons and rods will be your first step. A performance head gasket should be installed as well. Also a progressive nitrous controller or a dual stage set-up would be ideal, so that you dont overpower the tires and lose traction upon jetting the system.
Purge valves
The point in a purge valve is not to look cool. If you want it for that, you can do a much more simple set up using C02 and get the same results. A purge valve is designed to purge the nitrous line of air, allowing a fresh supply of nitrous to the solenoids when you begin to spray. After purged, there are no delays in injection and no 'gaps' during spray. Purge valves come in a variety of styles, from single line to quad line to l.e.d. lighted. Using hydraulic air hose, you can pretty much mount the purge line to spray anywhere outside of the car to purge to the atmosphere. "stealth" nitrous kits generally choose to purge either down towards the ground under the car, or onto the intake manifold to help it cool a little, as the nitrous purge comes out very cold.
What's with the retarded ignitions?
hahaha, your ignition is retarded! nitrous powered engines will produce more power if the spark occurs later in the combustion cycle. It's proven. A good rule of thumb is to retard the ignition two degrees for every 50hp of nitrous.
What type of fuel should I use?
You should never use anything less than 91 octane fuel when using nitrous. NEVER. the lower the octane number, the more prone the fuel is to predetonation. like I've said before, predetonation is what blows up motors. Octane boosters might be a good idea if you can afford it, just cause the higher the octane, the more power you'll produce with nitrous. If you can find race gas... use it.
Anything else I should know?
Yeah. A lot. But you'll learn as you go really... but for now, know that the higher the pressure in the bottle, the more power you'll get out of it. Most people try to keep their bottle above 900psi. You can use a bottle heater to increase it and keep it steady, as use of the nitrous makes the bottle cold and decreases the pressure in the bottle, therefore decreasing power. Optimal pressure is between 1000-1100 psi. Be careful when using a bottle heater, as incorrectly wired ones have been known to overheat bottles, causing them to explode.
If you really want to get the most out of your nitrous set up and use it safely, invest in both fuel and nitrous pressure gauges, so you know their pressures at all times. Keep an eye on them while spraying so you'll know how well your car is doing with it.
Basic bolt ons like intakes, exhausts, and headers will help the nitrous system produce more effective power. You should look for an exhaust that has piping diameter of over 2.5". 3" is optimal. Same thing for the intake. With the intake, be sure it is the same size diameter as the throttle body for the most effective airflow. Plus, like I said before, any upgrade you can do to the igntion or fuel system will greatly increase the reliability and effectiveness of your nitrous system.
I think that's about it for the beginner's nitrous stuff.
Last edited by lww; 10-04-2005 at 08:37 PM.
10-04-2005 | 09:36 PM
#10
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 14
well like i said before i know alot about nitrous but I dont know anything about this car or motor. i didnt know if this motor can handle a 75shot. the motor seems to be in ok condition but I was planning on doing a compression test like stated before I install the kit.
what cc are the stock injectors on the non-turbo ZX?
can i be able to run the stock injectors if i get a fpr and bump up the pressure a bit?
btw i dont plan on using the nitrous to much. im guessing about 15-20 1/4mile runs if not less.
also i was planning on getting a msd blaster coil so maybe that will help a bit.
oh and one thing I have that yall probably dont have is 93 octane in every gas station. lol
what cc are the stock injectors on the non-turbo ZX?
can i be able to run the stock injectors if i get a fpr and bump up the pressure a bit?
btw i dont plan on using the nitrous to much. im guessing about 15-20 1/4mile runs if not less.
also i was planning on getting a msd blaster coil so maybe that will help a bit.
oh and one thing I have that yall probably dont have is 93 octane in every gas station. lol
10-04-2005 | 10:17 PM
#12
The Good Twin
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 20,639
From: Wild Wild West, UTAH!
Originally Posted by 80_280ZX
oh and one thing I have that yall probably dont have is 93 octane in every gas station. lol
10-06-2005 | 08:07 PM
#19
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 5,485
From: Temecula, CA
If I bought a bike I'd be dead before I got it home
Or atleast spending some time in the hospital
And the funny part is that's the very excuse my wife uses for why I can't get one
She says anyone who repeatedly tries to kill themself in a car is GOING to kill themselves on a bike. Last time I rode something with 2wheels was a BMX bike and I DID end up in the hospital with my chest split open 
Or atleast spending some time in the hospital
And the funny part is that's the very excuse my wife uses for why I can't get one
She says anyone who repeatedly tries to kill themself in a car is GOING to kill themselves on a bike. Last time I rode something with 2wheels was a BMX bike and I DID end up in the hospital with my chest split open
10-06-2005 | 09:43 PM
#21
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 5,485
From: Temecula, CA
Ah naw. That was a bit before the freeway incident. I haven't been on a bike of any kind for quite a few years. And even then never on a stree bike. I did some BMX riding and some dirtbike as recreation. I wanna get me a Hog but my wife says I'm too skinny Oh well, it's probably for the best. When I was a kid the first time I ever rode a bike I got hit by a car cause i just rolled it right down into the street. My parent have it on film. (and I mean film, not a tape, like you put in the VCR. Its a reel that goes on a projector And I'm not even that old, but my parents were poor when I was young ). The first time I rode my bike without training wheels I hit some slimey **** in a gutter and the bike slipped out and I cracked my chin on the curb. I had to get a grip of stitches for that one. They were picking concrete outta my chin After that I acquired assorted injuries riding two wheeled vehicles. Funny part is I never once got a serious injurt riding a dirt bike. Some bruises and scratches but never broke anything. BMX is where I did all the damage. The above incident happened a few years back my buddy built a track in his back yard and I took a set of triples and tried to clear all three (stupid) and slammed my front wheel into the lead of the last jump. I felt something give but it wasn't my tire and nothing seemed broke so I didn't stop. After a straight there was a table top. Well I hit that thing full speed and when I pulled up on the bars for the jump I figure out what the give was. The neck of the stem had broken and when I pulled up it just came off. But there was a chunk of it still sticking up out of the frame where my handle bars used to be. When I came down it went right into my chest. They said it was amazing I didn't puncture a lung. IT went in and when I came down I crashed to the side and as I fell to the ground the piece that was stuck into my chest just tore along my chest until it finally worked its way out as I rolled away. Everyone thought I was gonna die. The only thing I could feel was that it hurt to breath. No other pain at all. I ened up having fractured my sternum and a couple of ribs and needed quite a few stitches. But that was it. I must've laid on his couch bleeding all over the place for like 15 minutes before the ambulance got there. That was the final straw and I haven't so much as sat on a bike since then. Too many freak incidents. Oh and just so you guys know, that part that broke was an aftermarket part that was super beefy. Noway in hell it shoulda broke before I bent a rim or blew out a tire. Noway. Thats the part that got to me I've got a million stories of bike rides gone awry in bizarre ways. And I still get teased by family members to this day about my luck with two wheels. I've only been in one accident in my entire life in a car and I've done some pretty stupid stuff in cars So I stick to 4 wheels
Oh well, it's probably for the best. When I was a kid the first time I ever rode a bike I got hit by a car cause i just rolled it right down into the street. My parent have it on film. (and I mean film, not a tape, like you put in the VCR. Its a reel that goes on a projector And I'm not even that old, but my parents were poor when I was young ). The first time I rode my bike without training wheels I hit some slimey **** in a gutter and the bike slipped out and I cracked my chin on the curb. I had to get a grip of stitches for that one. They were picking concrete outta my chin After that I acquired assorted injuries riding two wheeled vehicles. Funny part is I never once got a serious injurt riding a dirt bike. Some bruises and scratches but never broke anything. BMX is where I did all the damage. The above incident happened a few years back my buddy built a track in his back yard and I took a set of triples and tried to clear all three (stupid) and slammed my front wheel into the lead of the last jump. I felt something give but it wasn't my tire and nothing seemed broke so I didn't stop. After a straight there was a table top. Well I hit that thing full speed and when I pulled up on the bars for the jump I figure out what the give was. The neck of the stem had broken and when I pulled up it just came off. But there was a chunk of it still sticking up out of the frame where my handle bars used to be. When I came down it went right into my chest. They said it was amazing I didn't puncture a lung. IT went in and when I came down I crashed to the side and as I fell to the ground the piece that was stuck into my chest just tore along my chest until it finally worked its way out as I rolled away. Everyone thought I was gonna die. The only thing I could feel was that it hurt to breath. No other pain at all. I ened up having fractured my sternum and a couple of ribs and needed quite a few stitches. But that was it. I must've laid on his couch bleeding all over the place for like 15 minutes before the ambulance got there. That was the final straw and I haven't so much as sat on a bike since then. Too many freak incidents. Oh and just so you guys know, that part that broke was an aftermarket part that was super beefy. Noway in hell it shoulda broke before I bent a rim or blew out a tire. Noway. Thats the part that got to me I've got a million stories of bike rides gone awry in bizarre ways. And I still get teased by family members to this day about my luck with two wheels. I've only been in one accident in my entire life in a car and I've done some pretty stupid stuff in cars So I stick to 4 wheels
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