I was wondering if there is any other auto transmission that I can use for my turbo 280zx besides the stock three speed auto. Going 80 at about 3900 rpm everywhere doesn't sound as good as, say, 80 at 3400 rpm. Or was this engine built to perform at 3800-5000 rpm?

 

I'm pretty sure that was the only automatic offered for that car. You could always make the move to manual. A bit of work there to convert though. But nothing compares to a manual when it comes to pure driving enjoyment. Unless of course you live in the inland empire and you got bumper to bumper traffic to mess with. Curse that clutch pedal in those situations, but hey, I've got a pretty decent left calf now.

 

wow I think you're the only one that'll answer my questions. I thought about going to 5-speed, but I live in Houston where there is a some rush hour traffic, but who knows, I might go ahead and get a manual.

 

it may be too early to see if anyone replies though

 

Yeah it's kinda late, I see most of the posts gettin answered a little earlier in the day. I can't drive an automatic anymore. I almost killed myself last time I tried. I went for the clutch to shift and my left foot couldn't find it so it just instinctively hit the first thing it found, the BRAKE. And once you're used to it, it's just weird not shifting a car when you're driving. But if you do any performance driving, even if it's just around town, a manual is well justified. Traffic ain't too bad as long as the clutch pedal isn't too heavy, and it's not in these cars. But it can get tiresome after 2-3 hours of stop and go no matter how light that pedal is.
I apologize, congratulations on your Z, I hope you have as much fun driving that car as I have mine.

 

Well my other vehicle is a 1991 chevy dually with a 5-speed manual, so after driving it for a while and getting into my 280zx, I get that same feeling, but I panic and think the clutch pedal fell out and is somewhere down the road for a millisecond till I realize it's an auto. And you think, "A dually in Houston?" Well I don't live exactly in Houston, I go there every other day.

 

just to clear any confusion up

 

aha! another fellow houstonian!! the Zs are coming back to H-town.. haha j/k but im glad to see houston is getting its Zs.. i have an 81 auto 280zx turbo.. and i know how that 3 gear thing is kinda limiting.. but id say go with the 5 speed.. Alot better on mileage even for houston driving.. houston isnt all too much rush hour.. just gotta know the highwayz but im not displeased with my auto.. it puts out pretty well for one..

i live out here in kingwood btw..

 

If you see a silver '82 turbo 280zx in almost mint blazin' by unexpectedly, that's me

 

mines a crappy lookin blue n silver one..but who has time to look when ive passed you already??

 

ha ha very funny

 

since our cars are almost evenly matched, it will have to go to whichever one looks best.

 

i dont care how it looks.. just as long as i can go fast

 

The 1983-84 Nissan Maxima has a 4-speed auto on the L-series six cylinder. Those cars had an L24 that was fuel injected, but it works on the L28 turbo.
On the old Zdriver.com forum we had someone who had a gold and black turbo that they swapped to a 4-speed auto and I think brought the rear gear down from 3.54 to 3.7
even then it still cruised at very low rpms on the freeway. The overdrive in those transmissions is very tall. Taller than the late ZX 5-speed.

I don't know what work has to be done though. I dont' think they are bolt-in. The rear tranny mount might need to be midified.

 

thanks, I'll look into that.

 

Got this from the other zcar site:

Well, here it goes: Instructions for converting your 81-83 280ZX Turbo or Non-Turbo car to a 4 SPD (O/D) Automatic Trans:


Parts to get at your local recycler:


1-82 thru 83 Maxima A/T bellhousing (or entire trans ONLY if you are going to install this unit into a Non-Turbo car with less than 200 HP)
1-82 thru 83 Maxima flex-plate with hardware
1-83 thru 89 Mitsubishi Starion or 84-89 300ZX TURBO ONLY! Torque converter (these have either a 2450-2550 or 2750-2900 stall speed converter) I used the higher stall speed unit. Remember these listed converters are for use with a TURBO CAR ONLY, otherwise, use the 82-83 Maxima converter for normally aspirated cars!! Very important!!
1-83-89 Mits Starion A/T complete (for TURBO CARS OR HIGH HP N/A ONLY)
1-84-89 300ZX (with A/T) driveline


If converting a normally aspirated car to this 4 spd trans, it's much simpler than doing a Turbo car. Basically, just install an 82-83 Maxima 4 spd A/T complete with flex-plate into you 280ZX. Use the 300ZX A/T driveshaft (you will have to have it shortened slightly). Be sure to have your trans tested or looked at by a trans specialist before installation, as this work takes lot's of time and early failure is sure to cause deep depression..... Ok Turbo guys (mine is a Turbo): Get the Maxima A/T trans bellhousing and flex-plate handy. Remove the bellhousing from the Starion trans and trash it(be sure to only remove the bellhousing and NOT the O/D unit!!) Whoops! Forgot, be sure to unhook the line from the bellhousing before doing the bellhousing swap! Install the Maxima bellhousing.


Be sure to ensure that the o ring between the bellhousing and trans stays in its place during installaition. Now reconnect the line to the bellhousing. Install the MAXIMA flex plate (be sure that it is in the proper direction (look for the old bolt marks, they must face the front of the engine!!) Get the torque converter that you will use for your application and install in A/T. Be certain that the coverter is fully seated or serious damage will occur!! Connect the two wires that you disconnected from your old trans to the "kickdown-solenoid." This is the the solenoid on the driver's side of the trans (there are TWO on the 4SPD A/T) connect the wire to the one towards the rear. Now, mount a switch somewhere by the A/T shifter (this will be the O/D switch).


Now, find a (when ignition is on) 12 volt power source and run through the switch. Now run power to the front solenoid on the trans (when 12 volts is applied, the OD is OFF) Absence of voltage allows the O/D to kick on!! Now, you are probably wandering, how do I mount the rear of the trans to the car, well this is the hard part.


Before installation, you must cut away the old mounts that were spot welded to the car to hold the old 3spd A/T, or 5spd.. This is essential as the O/D Trans is 6-8" longer than your original trans. After cutting away the above, bolt the trans to the engine (make sure that you installed the MAXIMA flex plate as the 3spd A/T one will not work with the O/D trans!!!! Then raise the back of the trans up and this will help you figure out where the rear of the trans will mount to the tunnel. Now, I'll tell you how I jumped over this next obstacle: I used the original crossmember from the old A/T and bolted it to the underside of the O/D extension housing, then made brackets out of very heavy steel and then fastened to the tunnel with 4 large grade 8 bolts


Once you have made up your brackets, attach to the crossmember then raise the trans up until the brackets contact the tunnel. Now, mark where the brackets go with a large black marker. Drill holes through the brackets and through the tunnel (use at least 4 heavy bolts on each side and install a heavy steel plate on the other side of the tunnel (passenger compartment) to help further strenghthen your installation-very important, you do not want this install to fail!!!!! Now once mounted, you should now install the driveline that has been shortened. Once installed, now it is highly recommended that you adjust the driveline angle to be straight and level-important for u joint life and minimal vibration!!!! Now, get in that car and go to the exhaust shop, that guy will be earning his money making the pipe clear!!


I had the exhaust shop run 3" pipe front to back, but I must tell you, it runs very close to the frame rail and trans!!! (in fact so close, that I wrapped my exhaust near those areas with an a non-asbestos fabric to shield those areas from the heat. (I really recommend 2-1/2" pipe instead-much easier....


I forgot to explain getting the proper driveline angle. I used pieces of cut sheet-metal placed between the crossmember and the trans extension housing as you cannot do it any other way!!! Enjoy your 70 mph cruises at 2450 rpm and 80 mph cuises at 2850 rpm!!! The trans will downshift into 3rd gear at any speed that I have tried!!! I gives quite the kick in the Turbo car!!