I have been a prode owner of a 1980 datsun 280zx for half a year now, and have continuously been unable to fix my fludying at 3000 rpm. I have noticed a few things missing on the car, but the real thing that bothers me is the fuel filter. as you all know it is a fuel injected engine, thats should be getting 30 pounds. Well the feul filter is a little clear fram G-3 and I wunder if that is the rite one for this car because I have 50 pounds right now. If you know just sugest to me if you would like. or you can hint around I don't minde.

 

That's the wrong filter! Those are off the shelf carb filters. Someone probably just didnt' know there was a difference. Those carb filters are meant for 2-5 lbs pressure. I'm surprised it hasn't blown. They're cheap at about $4 or $5 but the proper filter is only about $10 or a little more.

If your fuel pressure is too high, replace your fuel pressure regulator. That is what caused my engine to run rich all the time and failed emissions.

 

Thanks for the info man I sort of had the idea, but wasn't sure. I did however put a brand spanking new regulator on it a week after i bought it thogh and it didn't fix the prob. mabe its the filter. once again I am thankfull for your advice and any time I can help you just let me know

 

Ya, I can use some help. Drive on up here and we'll change the timing chain on my Z!

 

That would be cool but I don't think that is very close to houston Tx. and I would only get slack from my band members about missing practice. but we both know that if I helped you put a new timing chain on, that you would be doing the hard work.

 

Well, tell them that you'll practise while you're on your little vacation. What do you play? I play bass.

but you're right. Its probably too far of a drive! I think I can handle it on my own.

3000 rpm is a big clue though. Two things I can think of. At that point your Air Flow Meter tells the computer to output more fuel because you are getting into the midrange rpm band. That is most likely the cause. Also, the throttle position switch could be dirty or mis-aligned. I'd try replacing the AFM first with a used one. Hopefully you can find on locally or on eBay for $30 or less.

try to stick with a meter from a 1979-80 280zx for your car if you can. Or 81-83 if you can't find the first year range. Don't get one from an older Z like 75-78.

 

Ok here is the hole deal. I boght this car from some guy who didn't really know a holl lot about engine stuff, and it didn't help that it is a import. any way the car has cot fire befor because I can see the wires that have goten burned. the injectors have some blue conectors in midle of the wired from the harnes. I do how ever think the floding problem at 3000 rpm has somthing to do with that temp sensor, to tell you the truth the plug to it isn't in the best condition. but there is just so much that I have checked on the car that I can not finde the defanate colprate. mabe if I hook the sensor to a meter and get a reading it will tell me if it is bad. don't know what is causing the floding thogh. I have a new presure regulator, a good air meter, and a good throtle switch. mabe it just needs some majoir repairs or somthing. my dad is a mack trucks machanic, and has been a machanic for over 25 years and he can't even finde the exact problem yet.

 

Hey guys
whats up. I resently went to auto zone to price the gascet for my exost, any way when I ask they told me the exost and intake had one gascet all in one. now wouldn't it be more eficiant with a gascet for each peac. My reasoning is that when one is damaegd for say like the intake you don't have to change the one on the exost. what do you guys think or say?

 

If you meant the intake and exhaust manifold gasket, yes it is one large piece. You can't separate them. Be sure to find one with a metal backing and not paper like the one NAPA sells cause the holes for theirs didn't even line up all the way with the ports.
John 82ZXT