NismoPick

Does your car have low or zero oil pressure? And I don't see how that would make your car "jolt" like you said it was doing.

Carl's Z

Yeah, the pressure is sometimes pretty low, and then sometimes normal. The "jolt" is really like when it suddenly loses power, and it throws you kinda forward, and then back when it regains the power. I noticed today, after cleaning the AFM connector REAL good and tightening the connectors in the harness end that it ran good all the way to Wildman's house, then I left there, and it started doing it again. I went to a store, and when I got outta the store, it was ok, til my clutch foot slipped and hit the ECU cover panel, then it started bogging again. Going later to check all the connections around there. Is the green light visible if I use a mirror behind the ECU, or do I need to take it all the way out to see it??

Thanks

Carl

duowing

For that green light on the ECU you just need to remove the kick panel covering the ECU to be able to see the light on the bottom of it. Maybe check your ignition? My car was weird like this. It would run awful at cold and then better at warm. Then eventually it started running really good when I'd start it up. I'd shut if off, come back and it would be running like crap. I switched out the AFM and put a new one in, started it the next day and it ran perfect. Let it sit to cold and then it ran like crap. My Ignition Module was pretty much dieing. Once I changed that and reset my timing it fixed pretty much all my problems. That's just a thought. It may not be your answer, but before I did that I put in a new O2 sensor, AFM, Remanned Injectors, CHTS, Air Regulator, new FPR, swapped TPS with my other car, new Fuel Filter, new Dizzy, Cap, Rotor, Wires, and Plugs.

Carl's Z

Ok, so what me and Wildman were thinking was that since for the last month or so, I've been having to be REAL frugal with gas purchasing, since I lost my job just before Christmas. Its basically been at about 1/8th tank or less, so it may be picking up crud from the bottom of the tank. Thankfully, I start a better job monday (mo' money for parts, etc....LOL)so that may be resolved soon and a new fuel filter, along with some other neglected staples, and possibly a tank cleaning. Anyone know what something like that would cost, about?

Hoping thats the issue...

Carl

NismoPick

Picking up crap / not getting enough fuel.... I've never run my Z out of gas, but I used to see how far I could go on a tank in my 87 4Runner. Not long after the fuel light came on, it would start jerking & studdering... then be fine.... jerk... studder... fine...

It could be.


Fuel filter.... $10. Look at your old filter before doing any tank cleaning. Doing a tank cleaning sucks & usually not required unless you have rust chunks floating around.

WildmaN

Congrats Carl on your new job! Great to hear bro'! Now you can start climbing out of your hole. LOL Anyway yeah I still think is is because you are sucking stuff from the bottom of the tank. And I agree with NismoPick, tank cleaning is a little extreme, and I even think, not necessary, and would be a waste of time and money.

Z_six

Crap, mine has that same problem. It'll warm up, and than the oil pressure gauge will bob back and forth between midrange and zero. But I do have a red warning light that comes on next to the gauge if it reads zero, but that light doesnt come on when it drops to zero while driving. Normally, if oil pressure drops to zero I'd shut down the car immediately, but after seeing this happen several times, I feel the engine is getting adequate oil, the sensor is just bad. I should do that quick fix and see if it helps. BTW, I know my oil is thick enough, I'm running Rotella Diesel Oil, 15w-40.

skittle

Got The Check Today So I'll Be Mailing It Out Tomarrow Morning Should Be There By Friday. Sorry For The Long Wait.