Allright, Ive Been Screwing With This For 2 Weeks And Want To Figure It Out So Like Nismopick Heres The List (it Just Recieved A Big Bore Tb, Turbo Afm With N/a Guts, And A Rr Fpr)

Lowered Fuel Pressure To 30psi (rr Fpr)
Adjuststed Tps
Played With Afm (is There Diff Insides To Them Cause I Took Apart 3 And None Are The Same?? Which One Do I Need??
Timing Set To 36 Total Or 20 Initial What Ever You Like
It Still Idles Like Crap And Shoots Fuel Out The Back.
Removed Cold Start Stuff (little Hard To Cold Start But O.k.)

Should I Re-install Stock Intake Componets??

 

Turn down your timing for now... 20 degrees on an L28 is pretty far out there... Have you tried putting in your old AFM to see if it runs better?

 

I think the key here is going to be to go back to all stock components and make sure everything is running properly from that base line.

Then, install one component at a time and verify it's still running properly.

By following this methodical approach, you'll find out which new part is messing things up unless it's not running right with the original parts...

Don't do what I do and add everything first then start flailing around looking for the problem...

 

Thats What I Think Im Going To Have To Do, I Might Leave The Big Tb In And Start With The Rest, Besides, How Could That Screw It Up And Make It Run Rich, Its Allowing More Air? I Almost Didnt Make It Home Today. Would An Intake Gasket Leak Screw It Up And Make It Run Screwy? And How Do I Tell If I Have A Leak At The Gasket?? Any Help Appreciated

OH YEAH IS THERE DIFF. AFM GUTS OR I JUST GOING INSANE, J YOUVE PLAYED WITH THESE THE MOST, WHAT DID YOU NOTICE.

 

It could definitely be your AFM. I only say COULD cause it may not be. It's not likely the TB as you said. Of everything you listed it's the only thing that stands out. Try adjusting the flapper door tension. That could be whats messing up your mixture. If it's too loose then it can run really rich. It does this becaue when it's loose it takes LESS air to open the door a given amount. So the ECU thinks more air is going through than you are actually getting so it compensates with more fuel. Try tightening up the tension of the spring and see what happens there. Reference my AFM page to see how to adjust the spring tension if you dont know how.

That'd be a lot simpler then tearing everything off your engine and starting over. Then if it doesn't fix your problem then you can go ahead and rip everything off anyways

 

I Tried Tightening It And It Just About Died, So I Uped The Idle And Tried Some More, Still Just About Died, So I Tried Loosening It And It Just About Died, So It Must Be Close. Im Wondering If My Intake Gasket Is Screwed, The Exhaust Part Is Ticking Now (probably From Backfiring) So It May Have Caused A Leak. Im Going To Change It And Put My Old, Stock Afm Back In Place And See What Happens Oh Boy I Just Cant Wait I Got Those Cam Lock Things On The Studs So It A Huge Pain.

 

Where'd you get the AFM with n/a guts? Are you sure it has the n/a guts?

 

A leaking gasket can cause you plenty of problems. If you suspect you have a leaking gasket I would definitely fix that. Especially if it's the intake manifold or throttle body gaskets. Those can really screw up your mixture at idle. But once you give it some gas a small leak wont make much difference.

And yes, make sure you're running the NA internals on the Turbo AFM. I haven't compared the internals of the two side by side but I'll do so tomorrow and let you know if there is a noticeable visual difference between the two. There are only a handful of things that will make your car run rich. Too big an injector is one. A faulty ECU input (such as the o2 sensor, air temp, air volume, or engine temp) is another. You said you dont have an o2 right? You are running an ECU that was originally intended for a non o2 vehicle right? You said you adjusted the TPS so that rules that out. Are you still running stock NA injectors?

I'd stick the stock AFM back on there and see if thats the problem. Try that and let us know how it goes. And fix any leaks too And make sure your engine temp sensor is hooked up

 

lol ask NIsmoPick what he did to make hes run lean and he can ask you what you did to make it run rich and problem solved...:P
(jus a lil humour)

 

hehehe!!

 

No kiddin! SHADY... "all your sensor are belong to me!"

 

I Put The Na Guts In Myself Years Before I Did The Tb Swap, Then The Afm Just Sat. Now I Have 3 Afms Ive Opened And All Have Diff Insides, The One In My Car Now Has A Wire Up The Pivoting Rheostat, The Rest Dont. I Know My Exhaust Leaks At The Manifold, But I Dont Know If The Intake Side Leaks. I Am Using The Stock Injectors And The Stock Computer Ive Had The Whole Time And Its Meant Not To Have The 02. Tonight The Afm Swap Happens And The Cold Start Stuff Goes Back On And The Stock Fuel Pressure Regulator Is Added In Conjunction To The Rising Rate Aftermarket On, Ill Take Pics Of The Afm Guts On Each One. Then Report Back Thanks For The Help Guys Matt

 

P/s I Will Swap Your Entire Turbo Motor And Setup For My N/a Motor And Stuff There Nismo

 

Buaaah!!! me no think so! Once you go turbo... you'll never go back!

 

An exhuast leak wont affect your mixture since you dont have o2 sensor. When you swapped the guts over did you make sure everything was still intact? No borken wires or anything?

TB I wouldn't worry about swapping back to. Or the cold start either. Those wouldn't make you run rich. Lean if anything.

 

o.k so to the shop i limped, then i swaped the stock afm back in, which by the way is the same dia. as the big bore tb. and note to those doing the swap without the turbo afm take a spare intake tube, the one after the afm and cut it just shy of the flex part and it works great to hook it all up and look professional. anyway, so i swaped only the afm, it took some tinkering but it worked better, much better, only thing is my settings i make wont stay, i adjust it then drive and when i come back to idle it doesnt run very well, so i re-adjust and drive, same thing, what the heck, when something is adjusted it should stay the same. J no wires looked to be broken, but im going to check the air temp sensor and all parts according to my fsm. so now it wont idle above 500 rpm, so i think i need to increase the idle via the tb stopper screw, since the stock one wont let it go any higher. adjusting the fuel mixture is becoming familiar, tinkering with the spring.

 

I did some thinking and: The turbo ECU compensates the A/F mixture at idle. Because of this, the turbo AFM has no idle mixture screw. The NA ECU does NOT adjust the mixture, so the AFM has an idle mixture screw to do this manually. That may be part of your idling problem. Try messing with that screw on the AFM. Clockwise = richer. Counter clockwise = leaner. That combined with your idle speed may be causing a problem. Does the car run better on throttle now that you switched the AFM? Or is it both at idle and on throttle?

 

The Turbo Afm Has A Screw In The Same Location As The N/a Under A Cover Plug, The Car Does Run Better Now Then It Did By Quite A Bit, But Is Still Rich As Can Be, I Havent Lowered Fuel Pressure Yet, Its Sitting At 33psi, With No Vaccum Hooked Up, It Stays There All The Time And Doesnt Move. Im Pretty Sure The Afm Is Adjusted As Good As It Gets, And Its Running Alright Now Except That Manifold Leak. That And The Heater Hose Blew On The Freeway Today And Just About Overheated The Motor, Good Thing I Have A Metal Headgasket

 

I just put two and two together here. I dont think you ever had a turbo AFM SHADY. First clue was that you said the bore's were the same. The turbo AFM has a noticeably larger bore. Then there is the fact that the turbo AFM does not have a mixture adjustment screw. No cover, no screw. The bore where the screw is on the NA is sealed off. I think you swapped the NA guts into an NA AFM. Unless there are different variations of the turbo AFM (mines an 83). Anybody with any other years verify if this is the same or not. The ECU in the turbo cars adjusts the idle ratio on it's own. No manual adjustment. Did the AFM body you used look the same as the NA one? The turbo version mounts completely different and wont mount up in the stock location without a custom bracket.

 

My turbo AFM has an adjustment screw... I've messed w/ it a lot & have seen no difference. In my attached pic, it's at the very top of the AFM, as I have mine upside down.

 

I cant tell from that pic. I think I see it just below the black pipe but I'm not sure if thats what I'm looking at I'll have to check my AFM again in the morning then cause I wasn't able to find an adjustment screw. But whether its there or not it's definitely not in the same spot as the NA cause that was the first place I looked. Maybe there are different variations :conused: I'll find out tomorrow but I actually looked for the screw and couldnt find one. What year is yours Nismo?

 

Alright I checked mine and even took some pics. No adjustment screw. It's just solid aluminum where the screw should be.
Here's a pick of the inlets. Turbo is noticeably larger:


And heres a pick of the outlets, same deal:


Here's a side shot of the adjustment screw on the NA and not the turbo:


And a close up of the mixture screw delete on the turbo afm:


I searched that thing over and over again and there is NO mixture screw on mine. Maybe there really is more than one type of turbo AFM.

 

Dah... I'm not near my car right now, but I'll get a better pic of it when I can. I know it's the one that came from my 82 donor car. I bought another from ebay & while back & the ebay one is noticably heavier than mine... so I imagine there are various versions of the turbo AFM.

 

Yeah mines a tank

 

Alright I checked mine and even took some pics. No adjustment screw. It's just solid aluminum where the screw should be.
Here's a pick of the inlets. Turbo is noticeably larger:
on my 1981 280zxt AFM has a hole were the mixture screw should be im tring to clean it.. were did u get that AFM jfairladyz ?