ZYAL8R

I'm a little confused on what or just why my throttle gets stuck open. usually when I pull up to a light, it just hovers right around 2000 rpms. Sometimes it happens after I've turned the car off and come back. Right when I start up! Ive checked the linkage, and it's not bad. I know it's not the dashpot cause I removed that thing all together. there must be an electrical situation, or something wierd. Has anyone had this problem?


Oh, and which shocks and springs are perfect for eliminating squat and dive?

NismoPick

Check this recent thread on the same issue: https://www.zdriver.com/forums/showt...ighlight=hangs

NismoPick

For a normal cruiser you'd want some KYB's or Tokico's w/ some MSA / Eibach springs. For a track car or just for tough suspension, get some 79-83 Mercedes 300D springs.

Z Car Barbie

Laterz, the next time you have this problem (throttle getting stuck open), place your left foot on the brake, and your right foot under the accelerator (gas) pedal, then pull the gas pedal toward you all the way. Let me know whether that makes any difference in the RPM jump.

It sounds like your problem might be a $3.00 part from the Nissan dealership and less than 1 minute to replace yourself.

SHADY280

check your timing, mine does that if the timing is out the wrong way. the 300d springs are great, start by cutting 3 coils for stock ride height, i cut 4or 4.5 off mine to get stock height. they are a very nice stiffness.

ZYAL8R

Thanks, Nismo, Ichecked that thread out. I feel sorry for him. I may try soaking my throttle body in wd-40, and checking the spring on the side.

Barbie, I've tried that brake/accelerator trick before with minimal success. What does happen is when I pump the brakes, it eventually goes down to 800 rpms.

Shady, you nailed it, man. My distributor is turned all the way clockwise(advanced) and thats the way it is. I can only get real smooth throttle after 2500 rpms, but it GOES once I hit 2600 rpms. Before that, it sputters if you will. I just need to bite the bullet and buy a damn timing light.

I just burned the hell out of my right hand and all my side of my arm. BBQ accident. So...it'll be a grip before I can go work on the car. I'll be here for about another week. Just postin' and maybe a little tweakin' on the ride.

snwbrderphat540

think those 300D springs would fit S30's?

thxone

Hmmm, '79, what a coincidence, so is my problem ZX. I haven't checked my timing on that one as I can't see the timing tab on the '79. I thought for a while it might be something that controls the idle when cold but it does it when it is hot too. I do have a vacuum leak, an intake manifold to head leak (bad gasket) and I think this is the main culprit (vacuum leak) I was instructed to spray carb cleaner I think it was on the intake to find the leak...I used brake parts cleaner (no residue) and found both leaks. I strongly suggests looking for a vacuum leak and then setting the timing (disconnect the vacuum line at the distributor and plug it before setting the timing) set to 8*

The shocks and springs....well I would not get the cheap shocks from Advance Auto parts for the rear...they are non specific and they say they are for both 2+2 and coupe...makes the coupe all jacked up in the rear and it sucks!!! The Tokico HP shocks and springs are pretty well matched for each other and the ZX's, if I had a choice I'd say Tokico HP shocks and Eibach progressive rate springs...but that's just me.

ZYAL8R

Shady says he's got some. I can grab some at pick'n'pull. There are a lot of zs there too. That's where I got my dash. Only one small crack, but it's brown, so I have to paint it.

ZYAL8R

There is a guy on ebay who sells tociko HP shocks and spring front and rear for $330.00 w/ free shipping. Might take him up on that...

SHADY280

yup i got them, rides stiff, but these cars need it. takes a few fitments to make em work. well worth the effort. i got kyb gr-2 shocks on mine, they work aight. my other one had eibachs and tokickos, it works well to. the rear wasnt stif enough tho. crank the timing the other way for now if you cant see it, or dont have a light. put it in the middle and adjust the idle as needed.

ZYAL8R

Ok, I'm gonna put it in the middle and adjust the idle, but do I need to have the car running when I do adjust it? PS, it takes a few fitments to make em work? you mean the benz springs?

ZYAL8R

OK Shady280, I put the timing mark in the middle and adjusted the idle(had to crank it up a bit) but it sputters all the way to 2500rpms, then it goes. Any clues as to why it has no power till 2500rpm? My afm is cranked up to the richest air/fuel mix.

NismoPick

Um... that could be a prob. If you're dumping too much fuel in, it won't run right.

ZYAL8R

Ok, I'm going outside to put the afm in the middle. I guess I never tried to adjust both afm and distributor...at the same time. Thanks, Nismo.

ZYAL8R

Ok. Takes 9 turns to go from fully rich, to ultra-lean. I turned it 4 1/2 turns till it was right about midway. Now it runs really rough, and I didn't even drive it. It pops the afm door right when it senses a little throttle, and idles irraticly. Any clues ?

ZYAL8R

OK as you can see, went back to my old name, ZYAL8R. I am no longer Laterz.
My car is still running like sh*t.

jfairladyz

Try re-adjusting the timing. If you dont have a timing light just turn the dizzy til the car runs better. If you get detonation back it off a bit. Timing by ear isnt great for emissions, but it works just fine for obtaining ideal driveability. Messing with the AFM's idle adjustment screw isn't all that big of a deal. But without a means of determining the a/f ratio you'll have no idea what you're getting out of it.