PooFlinginMonke

Here's how you solve the oil return problem without taking out the oil pan or removing the engine.

I've used this many times over the years on 280zx and when fitting turbos to a few rear drive maximas that have front sump.

So.......19 years later, I finally do a quick write up with pics.

It doesn't work on all engine configurations but I will see if I can do it on my M30 soon enough.

You start with an oil pickup tube.........or two.



Then you use a grinder to take off the lip which will allow you to remove the screen and have a sweet surface in which to mate to the side of the oil pan.



Notice the fact that the tube will protrude into the pan which keeps as much oil as possible away from where it meets the pan.




Now you use the smallest drill you can find and fit a cut off bit for the starter hole that will allow a unibit (stepped drill bit) to gain bite and then drill to the proper diameter. Unibits have come a long way and their being short is a big plus in this case as I was able to use a pretty sizeable drill and still be able to do this on the car.

Use a rotary gasket grinder to smooth out the pan where you will be placing the flat side of your new flange as high as possible in the pan so thit it is not submerged when the pan is full and cut a relief if necessary but you want as much real estate in which your sealant will lie. Some obsessive compulsive types could fit a large diameter O' ring since it looks like you could fit one easily. I did not use one this time.

Test fit it to the pan and drill however many holes you want to hold it to the pan and then use the fact that you now have two holes in your pan to remove any metal particles by spraying brake cleaner with the wand to get them out of the pan. Maybe some worriers could use a magnet to confirm everything is good before finishing the install.

Then use some self tappers in stainless steel to tighten your flange to the pan with sealant.

I used the rest of the tubing from this one to weld onto the end of the stock turbo drain tube so it would allow me to use the stock nissan oil return hose (silver).

And here is the finished turbo drain tube and all parts used were genuine nissan save for the self tapping screws.



Still going 30k miles and 1.5 years later with no leakage.

Notice that there are no sharp 90 degree corners like the stock offerings which allow coked oil baked from heat soak in the beariing housing to accumulate and eventually clog it.............all smooth curves.

Feel free to post it anywhere but it's name is "HowlerMonkey flange".

Here's a song I wrote about it and performed it with only one finger in true talentless nu-metal fashion to warn any who claim this fabrication as their own.

http://princemakaha.homestead.com/fi...ginmonkeys.wav

NismoPick

That's a very good idea! Tho I'd personally rather just weld on a bung. But for those who don't want / have the time to pull the oil pan, this idea rocks.

260DET

Good idea, thanks for sharing.

hoov100

i would have personally cleaned the area where you where going to be drilling first, shavings in the pan is one thing, but having dirt in their is another..

NismoPick

es de uh... huh? Looks like he cleaned it to me...

snwbrderphat540

its not that hard though to just drill a hole and weld on a threaded bung and you can use the sweet flexy threaded drain tube design and only cost yah 15 bucks. but thats a goo idea. you turbo'ed that V8? cooooolllll!!!! lol. i hate V8's but i can appreciate any motor thats boosted.

lol, but its carb;ed and the filter is right there so i know its not, but still, would be pretty bitchin

PooFlinginMonke

That's a stock L24e in a 1984 rear drive maxima that has been my daily driver for the last year and a half.

PooFlinginMonke

No turbo for the 1967 fastback.

Just a 428 cobrajet with forged internals.

Here's a more recent pic.