Ok so here's the deal. I stumbled across an 81 280. Found at an estate sale. Only has 26k orig. miles. 5 spend non turbo. Lol got it for 500$ added a bat and it was good. Took it out last night for its first cruise. Was curious to see if a cig lighter from 1980 would still work... It did. But the radio lost all sound, turn signals stopped working, voltmeter, clock, not working. The instrument lights come on even the lights In the radio. I know these are a bit prone to electrical probs. checked fuses ,instrument light fuse was a 15A when soused to be 10A.. Changed it looked at the fuseable links under the hood. All look good. Took apart the center console , everything's there doesn't look burnt melted or anything any bit of help would e amazing I've searched with no avail.

 

Welcome to ZDriver! Sounds like you picked up a great Z.

For starters, you have a copy of your Factory Service Manual (FSM) - or you can download it from XenonS130 - S130 Reference There are other good docs there, too.

You can pick yourself up a good multimeter and use the FSM electrical diagrams to hunt down specific power issues. Our 280 guys here are real pros and will no doubt have some other suggestions.

Take some time to get familiar with the FSM and check out the inspection & troubleshooting sections for the stuff you want to work right. They are step-by-step, easy to follow.

Be sure to post some pics of your new Z for us!

Thanks and welcome.

 

when you replaced the fuse did the gauges start working again? When the engine is running, are the idiot lights on in the gauge cluster?

 

usually when all the lights come on it means your alternator is shot. Have that tested and make sure the drive belt is tight Or just replace after sitting for years. have battery load tested and check cables for corrosion

 

DO THIS:
Get your battery load tested. Be sure you have clean, tight corrosion free terminals on both ends of your battery cables. Be sure the ground (negative) cable goes to a bolt into the frame before going to the starter. grounding through the starter is not a reliable connection. Z's don't like low voltage. causes the electronics to act funny. it is possible to have enough amps to crank but not enough voltage to run the electronics. If you have one size fit all cheapo clamp on terminals they are a problem waiting to happen. Usually on a rainy night around Oh Dark Thirty.

Clean the connectors for the maf or afm, ecu and tps. Deoxit by CAIG is probably the best connector cleaner on the market. spray with CorrosionX after cleaning and before putting together this will help prevent any further corrosion.

Replace outer tie rod ends, and ball joints. replace the bushings with poly (don't forget to lube them as directed unless you like squeaky things). New shocks. Get new boots for power steering. all those things will make you think you are driving a different car. doing them piece meal is a waste you won't see a great improvement until you do the complete job. You need to get the car realigned after messing with the front. Have your tires in good shape and rebalance. Rear bushings nice too but more work and you won't notice as great an improvement. Rear shocks also because if the fronts are gone so are the rears. if car squats when you jump on the gas the rears are gone. If you have the electro adjustable shocks they are DEFINITELY GONE.

If you are doing a turbo car shocks (electro adjust I think may be only on the turbos) then you need the adapter plates to fit modern shocks to the car. Easiest way is find an n/a at the junkyard and take the mounting plates. They may be available thru NAPA (listed) but I had the n/a plates.

 

I think your hot wire from the Cig lighter is touching or grounding.

 

PO's are notorious for taking power off the cigarette lighter, like Jamal suggested, check it out, and you might have burned a fusible link, check those out asap.