Hey guys, been a while, but i'm back.
I have a problem that hopefully someone can help with. My 80 280ZX auto. will randomely die either while I just reached a complete stop(mainly), while decelerating(rarely), and once while accelerating. there have not been 2 times that matched, it's always different weather, good and bad roads, traffic and not, electronics on or off. The only constant thing here is that when it dies all electronics work accept power windows (the mirrors don't work now anyways, I think I blew the fuse but can't find it,) and when I turn the key to restart it, my fuel, seat belt, and whatever other rectangular light doesn't turn on and there are no noises accept my fuel pump?!?! if I let her sit for a few minutes and try to start her every few seconds (I turn the key to lock then start and back) eventually the lights come back out of nowhere and she fires right up and runs like a champ! What the hells goin on? Someone please help me!

 

Go ahead and check your AFM sensor i had the same problem. Get one from a turbo it works pretty good.
_ChuCk

 

That sounds like a typical worn out igntion switch. I'd almost bet money on it.

Rod.

 

Yep I think Rod's right, I'll put some money on the ignition switch also. Because it happened in my '81 before. And $10 later, no more problems!

 

Ya, I was going to say your entire dash and computer is loosing power from one main source.... ignition switch sounds like a good posibility.

 

anyone willing to give me a walk through of how to replace the ignition switch, and for ***** and giggles how to check the afm sensor?
and just for added info, it's only those 3 rectangular lights that won't turn on, every other electronic part on the car works, even the rest of the dash lights.
Thanks guys!

 

Because those three lights only light up when getting the signal from... The ignition switch. Take the cover of the steering column and you'll see that it's a really easy swap. Now theres the possibilty that the screws that hold the switch assembly in are the break-away type. If so, you'll need to work a little harder to get them out. I just took a small cutting wheel to where the head of the screw should be and notched it so that a screwdriver would bite on it. Nissan dealer sells new assemblies for mega bucks... but they are always in stock. These are the weakest link on the whole car and notoriously cheesy. Also why it's so damn easy to steal the car. Most of the original ones by now, could be started with almost any key you stick into them because they are so worn out.

Rod.

 

autozone has the switch for $25 in-stock, should I just go for it? sounds like it shouldn't be too difficult, I have any tool you could imagine to use at my new job. Thanks Rod, and to everyone here, it feels good to be back!

 

The funny thing about you saying that is not so much that it's true (which it is), but the fact that I have started my car with other keys and certain odds and ends. But I wen to the hardware store to get a copy of my key made (for the Z) and they told me test it and if it didn't work just bring it back in. I said it'll work. So I get out to the car and I can't get the damn thing to turn with my new key. WTF. I can start my car with a key I found in my old toolbox, but I can't start it with a key made to work on it?

Anyways, juggalo, I give it the two thumbs up on the ignition switch. And follow Rods advice on getting the original strip screw out. Use a hammer or an impact driver too though. You don't want to risk stripping what little there is left of that head. Otherwise you've got to drill it out and that's no fun

 

I found a thread on Zcar.com once when I had to replace the the ignition that said to try tightening the regular phillips screws a bit first to take presssure off the safety screws, then use a small flat screwdriver and something to tap it with and work on the outer edges of the safety screws counterclockwise til they came out. Tried it, and they were out in about 2 minutes. Worked great...

 

How about just replacing the contacts on the back of the tumbers? That's what I had to do. That part was about $30. It unscrews with two tiny little phillips screws.

 

I've also had new keys made that wouldn't work... weird. In fact, Altough "technically" all thr locks and ignition on my car use the same key... no dice. I have one key that will open the doors, the hatch and start the car, but won't open the gas cap, I have another key that will open the gas cap, start the car and open the drivers door but won't open the hatch or the passenger door. I have a third key that will start the car and open the passenger door but not the drivers door, the hatch or the gas cap. I don't have any one single key that will do it all.

Rod.

 

Hey Rod, break down, and buy a whole new lock set from Motorsport. That is what I want to eventually do. 1 key to do every lock on the car. It is a little pricey, but it would be sweet though!

 

I think it might be best to find a competent locksmith to re key the car There a place by where I work that can do everything from opening safes to those stupid locks on camper shells and bed covers. There are very few things i wont do myself, and filing tumblers is one of them.

 

That's what I plan to do as well. My ignition cylinder is shot, the driver side lock doesn't work with a key (only from the inside, kinda my fault though , and the gas cap doesn't work at all. When I bought the car I drove it around town for almost a week without needing to put gas in. When I finally did need to get gas I realized the key didn't work on the gas cap. I just ended up using a screwdriver and hammer to bust the lock on the gas cap and now it just unscrews and doesn't lock at all.

 

you could always get a start button!