yep... did ya see my post above? It had all that info:

Here is an Excel spreadsheet comparing the 280ZXT to Z31T ecu wires. I put it together for myself, but maybe it will benefit others.

RIGHT CLICK & SAVE AS:


EDIT (5/6/09): Link no longer active. You can download the file via ZDriver attachment: https://www.zdriver.com/forums/attac...9&d=1238179990

 

I was wondering. Since you've done the swap to the Z31 ECU, does that mean you'd be able to pull codes from the Z31 ECU? Or would they not be accurate?

 

They should still be acurate....

 

This shows how poor the fuel maps are in the old 1981-83 ECU technology....

 

Indeed! Whas your future plan for fuel management Bleachie?

 

A modded 8-bit Nintendo and a Power Glove for NOS controls!!!

 

You're still livin in the 80's man! Live in the now! Live in the now!!!

 

What is a power glove??????????

 

 

sticking the filter into the engine compartment is kind of a step backwards. You'll be exposing it to the heat of the engine compartment. The best place for the filter is somewhere like the fender well. It gets cool air and it's not turbulent air either. Engine compartment is hot. Putting the filter out in front of the radiator puts it in a violent air path. This is why the original air box drew its air from inside the headlight housing area.

The stock air box with a K&N is probably better off then the CAI's you see on ebay. Right now I'm building an aluminum box for my CAI. My Z had a CAI on it when I bought it so thats the route I'm going.

 

just imagine that bad boy shifting through the gears on a 1982 Datsun 280ZX Turbo! ..it could use some blinking lights though and of course it should plug right into the dash.

 

I eventually do this to all my inline nissans whether N/A or not because all are expected to wear a turbo at some point.

Of course, the map on the later z31 ecus is better than a spring so it's a no brainer.

Best to do the swap alone and not when you decide to change a bunch of other stuff so you can troubleshoot it more easily.

 

So when getting the Z31 chopper wheel at the junkyard, should I grab the whole distributor assembly, or do I only need the innards?

 

You only need the flat metal disc part of the CAS. Open up the distrib & remove that part. Make sure you note which side is up.

EDIT: here's a pic:

 

I forgot to note which side is up...

I think I'm going to have to upgrade my ECU to a 16-bit Super Nintendo

 

ok, so I haven't been able to do anything to the car for the past month, since it's been a mixture of snow, rain, and down *** coldness... but it was warm today so I started back at it... got everything wired up except for the ignition coil. I am confused as to which wires go where. on the excel spreadsheet nismopick posted, it says that ECU pin #3 goes to the original (-) coil wire, and pin #34 goes to the (+) coil wire. However, I don't see anywhere on the wiring diagrams where the wires for the coil originate. This is the only thing I have left to do before I can attempt to start her up and see if she explodes or not.

Any insight?

 

On the Excel spreadsheet it should say for #3: Add pin to 280zx wiring harness: attach to 280zx wire 33 y/l right? You have to add a pin from the Z31 ecu harness to the empty #3 slot on the 280zxt ecu plug. I found out this wire ISN'T needed unless you are using the Z31 ignition coil.

#34 is the same thing: Add pin to 280zx wiring harness: attach to + ignition source I may have updated my Excel spreadsheet since I put together that zip file, but it should say almost the same thing.

Anyway, you add a pin to the 280zxt ecu plug #34 & run the wire to a + ignition source. The black with white striped wire for the fuel pump module works great.

 

awesome thanks... should help me finish in the morning...

 

and then hopefully the Z will work it's way back to me so I can finally lay some smack down with it here