1981 turbo boost question.
#1
1981 turbo boost question.
have a 1983 turbo L28ET engine swapped into a 1981 280zx 2+2 chassis.
engine is brand new, just rebuilt and fresh. turbo is being sent out to totally be rebuilt and re balanced (garret .60 trim)
car has haltek programmable ECU.
MSD 6A ignition
MSD blaster coil 2
HKS blow off valve
factory pop off valve is bypassed and plugged.
turbo is now at 9 pounds of boost.
TIAL external waste gate.
huge intercooler the size of the radiator.
factor oil cooler
walbro aftermarket fuel pump
after market injectors
stock fuel rail and fuel regulator.
going to be putting a turbo timer on it so it doesnt coke oil in the turbo..
how much boost can i saftely run with this set up?
and how much boost is pushing the lower end to its max?
this is mated to a nissan 5 speed trans (not T5)
and a R180 differential.
engine is brand new, just rebuilt and fresh. turbo is being sent out to totally be rebuilt and re balanced (garret .60 trim)
car has haltek programmable ECU.
MSD 6A ignition
MSD blaster coil 2
HKS blow off valve
factory pop off valve is bypassed and plugged.
turbo is now at 9 pounds of boost.
TIAL external waste gate.
huge intercooler the size of the radiator.
factor oil cooler
walbro aftermarket fuel pump
after market injectors
stock fuel rail and fuel regulator.
going to be putting a turbo timer on it so it doesnt coke oil in the turbo..
how much boost can i saftely run with this set up?
and how much boost is pushing the lower end to its max?
this is mated to a nissan 5 speed trans (not T5)
and a R180 differential.
#2
also, that being said this is just my "toy" car. my daily driver is a 82 280zx N/A 5 speed. but i'd still like the turbo to be pretty reliable.
but if it breaks down its not too big of a deal.. (off the road right now anyways)
my biggest concern is snapping the transmission.
i already broke a reverse gear in half lighting up the tires in reverse with my 82 280zx (daily driver) (had two ppl in back seat is why i think it blew apart)
but the forwards gears seem to be ALOT stronger then the reverse because i beat the hell out of it.
but if it breaks down its not too big of a deal.. (off the road right now anyways)
my biggest concern is snapping the transmission.
i already broke a reverse gear in half lighting up the tires in reverse with my 82 280zx (daily driver) (had two ppl in back seat is why i think it blew apart)
but the forwards gears seem to be ALOT stronger then the reverse because i beat the hell out of it.
#3
Welcome to ZDriver!
Things to clarify...
Stock components? Any internal upgrades?
What size cc?
Safe boost is depends a lot on the A/F ratio. If you max out the injectors, you will start to run lean, which will increase the chance of "blowing" something. ... need injector info ...
On a stock L28ET engine, intercooled, ~12-14psi as long as the proper A/F ratio can be maintained. The stock T3 turbo starts to become less and less efficient much above 15psi.
You won't "snap" the transmission, just mush up the synchros with repeated hard shifts. Some swear by the Nissan 5speed, some swear by the BW T5. I originally had the stock n/a 5 speed in my turbo swap, but killed 2nd gear synchros within 2k miles. I now have a BW T5 and no problems.
To give you a background on my setup...
81 2+2 n/a chassis, turbo swap:
82 L28ET overbored 1mm (.040"),
Shot peened & magnafluxed rods,
2mm MLS head gasket, ARP head studs,
P90 head shaved .020", 5 angle valve grind,
60mm throttle body, intercooler,
T3/T4 hybrid turbocharger,
2.5" mandrel down pipe,
Z31T ecu / maf,
Mallory Hyfire 6AL ignition, MSD Blaster II coil,
HKS electronic boost controller,
Centerforce DF clutch, stock turbo BW T5 transmission,
Z31T CLSD
I usually run 12psi on stock injectors and that puts out ~280whp.
Before my MLS head gasket and ARP head studs, I blew my head gasket street racing at 12psi, mainly because of old stock 259cc injectors that just weren't spraying properly anymore, but also because of the crappy Felpro head gasket, and weak clamping force of head bolts. With MLS head gasket, studs, and clean injectors I can run 12psi all day, and jump to 14psi if I need. I also have a set of ~290cc injectors I will be running on an o-ring fuel rail.
Hopefully that gives you some idea / insight ... but post more details.
Pic for kicks:
Things to clarify...
Stock components? Any internal upgrades?
What size cc?
On a stock L28ET engine, intercooled, ~12-14psi as long as the proper A/F ratio can be maintained. The stock T3 turbo starts to become less and less efficient much above 15psi.
You won't "snap" the transmission, just mush up the synchros with repeated hard shifts. Some swear by the Nissan 5speed, some swear by the BW T5. I originally had the stock n/a 5 speed in my turbo swap, but killed 2nd gear synchros within 2k miles. I now have a BW T5 and no problems.
To give you a background on my setup...
81 2+2 n/a chassis, turbo swap:
82 L28ET overbored 1mm (.040"),
Shot peened & magnafluxed rods,
2mm MLS head gasket, ARP head studs,
P90 head shaved .020", 5 angle valve grind,
60mm throttle body, intercooler,
T3/T4 hybrid turbocharger,
2.5" mandrel down pipe,
Z31T ecu / maf,
Mallory Hyfire 6AL ignition, MSD Blaster II coil,
HKS electronic boost controller,
Centerforce DF clutch, stock turbo BW T5 transmission,
Z31T CLSD
I usually run 12psi on stock injectors and that puts out ~280whp.
Before my MLS head gasket and ARP head studs, I blew my head gasket street racing at 12psi, mainly because of old stock 259cc injectors that just weren't spraying properly anymore, but also because of the crappy Felpro head gasket, and weak clamping force of head bolts. With MLS head gasket, studs, and clean injectors I can run 12psi all day, and jump to 14psi if I need. I also have a set of ~290cc injectors I will be running on an o-ring fuel rail.
Hopefully that gives you some idea / insight ... but post more details.
Pic for kicks:
Last edited by NismoPick; 09-05-2013 at 11:20 PM.
#5
Huge intercooler just means it's big. Not it's efficency or what boost levels you can run, etc. There are some more important factors like air flow (position, ducting, etc, etc) and thermal mass (typically the weight of the intercooler - it's ability to absorb heat) and thermal efficiency (ability to get rid of the absorbed heat). Most intercooler setups are pretty thoughtless IMHO. Too bad because you can get a lot out of a smaller intercooler with proper ducting and positioning without blocking off the cooling to the rad, etc...
#6
i took jons car (my customer) for a rip the other day at 10 psi with stock injectors and that intercooler i got is amazing. the hot pipes were touchable but still quite warm and the other side of the intercooler was stone cold, its a godspeed unit thats 27"x7"x2.5" hey nismopick, where does your tube from the valve cover go to? i just run a k&n there on my stuff. you gotta get an electric fan!! save 15 hp and send it elsewhere
#7
I did have an electric fan... remember MSA 07? It died on me down there (one of the several issues leading to my break down). I've been using the trusty clutch fan ever since.
#8
Yeah I got rid of the charcoal too and still have the PCv. I don't remeber everything that I saw at msa. We were busy with the cam issue. That was an adventure for sure. There is a system drag cars use that sucks the crank case air into the exhaust. That way the intake air is as cold and clean as possible. It leads to more power and is easy to install just not as environmentally friendly.
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