Alright so lets start. I got this car, an 83 280zx turbo. When I bought it the guy told me that he isn't want to deal with the car. He just wanted it gone. I put a new battery in and it started cranking. It has a new fuel pump fuel filter and plugs. It gets fuel to the plugs. I checked to see If it power to the coil and it does. I used a test light. I checked to see if I had spark from the coil. And I did not. So I replace the coil. When I put the new one on I got an orange spark. Which means it didn't have alot of power. I checked again and got no spark. So I went back to autozone. And they said that wasn't the right part. So I swapped them out. I get back to the house and try and start it and I won't. So I check for spark again from the coil. And I have no spark at all. I need advice I guess it would be the ignition control module. But it's a pretty steep price. So I don't want to get it I I don't have too. Just give me some advice on what else I need to do.

 

Welcome to ZDriver!

#1: Have you downloaded the FSM from XenonS130 - S130 Reference ?

#2: Have you checked to see if the ECU's green LED light turns on?

#3: Have you checked the fusible links?

#4: Is the coil bracket securely grounded to the body?

 

Yes I do have xenons fsm!
Point me in the direction on how to do numbers 2 and 3 real fast. And the coil bracket is securely grounded. There were wires near the bracket that were on the bolts to hold the bracket so I just put them back under the bracket because I didn't know if they needed to go in between the bracket and the nut. I didn't think that mattered as long as they are grounded

 

#2: There is an inspection hole on the ECU. Turn key to ON, does the green LED come on?

#3: Open fusible link box, check for fried fusible link.

The reason I asked if you have the FSM is because this is all covered in great detail in the FSM.

 

Lol i have a pretty short attention span

For some reason, i just cant motivate myself to study that thing very hardcore.

And i downloaded it this morning before work lol, havent got a chance to look into it.

 

Don't worry, I had the same problem and the FSM is a little confusing. If you have done all that Nismopick has said I would change out the ignitor. (should be the thing on the coil bracket with wires going to the coil) I did the HEI swap on mine(part is like $25) Here is my updated schematic on how to hook this thing up. Always check your grounds as well.

 

I have a 1983 280zx turbo, ive had a few problems with. I replaced the coil and battery. And i now and im getting fire to the engine. I put on a belt to the oil pulley. The weird thing is that after i crank it, then stop turning the key it'll act like it wants to start. And today it idled for about 45 seconds. (the idle was very rough) and then died on its own. But if i try to start it again it wont do that. The engine will just sort of shake and then smoke and smell like fuel is burning. There are a few things that i am unsure of what they are. Trust me, i've searched and im just not that experienced. Its a project car and i'm 17. So any tips will help.

I have a few pictures of some things that look weird to me, i dont know what they are or what they do. So if anyone is interested in helping me. I will post pics.

 

Merged threads.

I have no idea what this means... oil pulley???

Sounds like the timing is off. Have you verified that the distributor is timed correctly? (and the timing chain).

 

The picture from the fsm said it was called the oil "pump" pulley.

It does sound like the timing is off, but would it start and have a rough idle if it was?

 

I swear the belt is connected to the power steering pump, but whatever lol

 

If your IGN distributor is malfunctioning that can create the same scenario. Check on that too.

 

Gonna change the ignition module within the week. Think that'll help?

 

It won't help a bit if your timing is off.

 

It did help, i replaced the ignition module with the gm one. Which wored great! It started and ran, i let it idle for close to 10 minutes. But i would try and give it some gas and it would start to bog down. And lose power.

The RPMs were dropping.

It idled pretty good. But i've tried to find out what this problem could be,

and my suspects right now are...

-Cylinder Head Temp Sensor
-Dirty Injectors
-Filter or Pump

Thats all i got. Thanks for the help!

She'll be up and driving soon!

 

Good luck with that man! Thats awesome. I wanna see how that project goes. It seems like a good one!!

 

well i have some news

After i put the gm module on...

It started and idled for roughly ten minutes.
i waited about 30 minutes and it did the same thing.

the next day, it wouldnt start.

so i felt like it had to much fuel, i took the plugs out and let it sit a (long) while.

i replaced some vaccuum tubes that were cracked, and thats it.

Now about the gm module, i did not connect the blue wire, that ran with the ground wire from the ecu, to anything.

None of the schematics said anything about this blue wire. so i just taped it up and went on my way.. The car did start after i did this btw.

it just wont now.

i have a chts ordered now, because i just now that it was the issue whenever the car would not take any gas.


i'm so very confused on what is going on.\


i have NOT checked the timing..

any answers?

 

Okay so i got my 280zx turbo to run the other day. I put a new ignition module on it. It was the one from the chevy chevvete. Or the gm module i guess.

it made the car run, and after it started it wouldnt take any gas. The chts was cheap so i got it because i figured it might be the problem.

Well while it was on the way in the mail, i tried to start the car and it wouldnt start.

one thing weird about the starter is that after i turn the key and let it crank, after i stop the cranking and let off the key, thats when it woud start.

It was odd. there is a wire coming off of the (i think its the starter) and its cut,

then there is a wire coming off the box next to the light inside the hood, next to the passenger side strut tower.

here is the picture of the starter




here is the other wire

 

Okay, i now know that i have a weak orange spark.

Sometimes. It doesnt always spark but it will sometimes.

I have the gm ignitor in there.

 

update, got the car to start and idle again.

thats good, not it wont take any gas. it'll idle as long as i let it sit, but then when i try and give it gas it bogs down

any suggestions, i've already replaced the CHTS

 

I'm not very... knowledgeable about the "HEI" system but trying to convert my l28et to it... one question though... why would you wire your ecu ground to your pos on your coil? am i just not understanding this correctly or am i just lost?

 

You're actually correct and I'm amazed someone hasn't corrected this LONG before now!

That connection is actually the B/W (Black/White wire) FROM THE IGNITION SWITCH that powers both the Ignitor and the Coil in the stock configuration.

The B/W runs to the coil on every early Z and anyone doing an engine swap or Ignitor swap can use it for Coil and Ignitor power...