I recently dropped in a newly rebuilt engine in my 82 280zx na. I had it sitting for two years and I finally found time to work on it. It starts up right away but spits out a lot of white smoke and then dies after a minute. When I start it I can keep it alive by reving it but then eventually it doesn't rev past 4500, then 3500, then 2500, then it dies. It is na and fuel injected. If there are any sensors to check can you please point me to the right direction to find out how to do it? Please help me out.

 

White smoke means it's burning coolant.

Who rebuilt the motor?

Check the spark plug tips for coolant. Also check the oil & coolant colors for abnormalities and foaming.

 

I've noticed like for example when it's cold and the car has sat for quite a while it will smoke, the temperature differences between the exhaust pipe and the colder air, built up moisture and crap in the exhaust being burned off, etc. Although that's a different story and that will disappear after a bit.

 

It could also mean you are running EXTREEMLY rich Not burnning all you fuel, witch would then explain why the engine doesnt want to hold RPMS when you REV it up be cause your adding more Fuel Witch then floods the Chamber completly Causing the Engine to Stop Running... the simple way to test this theroy would be take a flat tip screw driver to your Throtal body, Open up that screw while the engine is running. This should increase the Idel buy allowing more air, witch will lean out your Air to fuel ratio. if that works for you you should reduce in smoke and engine should stay running. THough If the Screw Is already open then you must consult someone who knows More about the Fuel injection system.

The car wasnt Previously Turbo (injectors might be to bigger or ECU is telling them to juice more)?

Thats my thoughts.

I work on HMMV's for the ARMY and I know with them in the winter they will crank so much fuel into the chamber and the glow plugs just dont get hot enough when its 6 degrees out side here, They will cloud our motor pool with smoke. But we solve that problem with a bit of EITHER and everything works out good =D

 

^^^ Good thoughts, but running extremely rich produces black smoke. And it's an NA motor.

 

I recently worked on a CRX of a friend who had a simular problem he was running rich all Though turbo the smoke was white, dont disreguard the help do to debate of smoke color.

I know Black smoke to be a blown ring normally causing an extreem amount of oil burn, and blue to be a mild amount of oil burn. Coolant being burned will make white smoke, how ever if this problem happens a major problem has happend or you put coolant in your Oil heheh. Either way I would got for the more likly one.

 

http://www.trustmymechanic.com/troubleshoot_smoke.htm
http://www.tpub.com/content/engine/1...s/14076_93.htm

Blue smoke = burning oil
Black smoke = too rich
White smoke = burning coolant

There might be some slight variations in the color, depending on how bad it is, but just running too rich (on fuel anyway) won't produce white smoke.

EDIT... I did have an extreme case of white smoke on a 90 4Runner, which turned out to be the power steering pump overflowing ATF into the intake vacuum lines. So... burning ATF in the motor will produce white smoke.

 

When my AFM on my turbo swap died, it was blowing white smoke due to way to much fuel. Take out a couple plugs see if they are wet. The smell em to determine if its fuel or otherwise.

 

Welp... I guess anything is possible. White smoke is usually a sign of steam, but the determining factor would be smell, and if it's spitting any fluid from the exhaust too.

So where is lukypetr ???

 

Sorry guys. I pulled the plugs, they were black and did smell like fuel. Actually it had a very strong smelling fuel scent. What could cause it to run so rich? I should also add that this engine has about a 11:1 compression ratio because of the head and block combo. Thanks.

 

If it's burning silly rich, check the CHTS and AFM like Mhinrichs said.

 

What is the CHTS?

 

Cylinder Head Temp Sensor. It's on the right (passenger) side of the head, between cyl #5 and #6. It's a white / tan square plugged sensor:

 

thanks

 

also check Mass airflow sensor. if it thinks there is more air it will send more fuel. just a thought. correct me if i am mistaken others.

 

Sorry for the really long delay, I busy getting ready for my wedding. I got a chance to work on the car. I think I may have located the problem and will definitely need everyone to help me solve it. I was looking under the hood to locate the sensor and realized that the engine did noe have it. The new engine that I dropped in is a comb (head and block) of older years and the block does not have the temp sensor where my orginal '82 280zx na engine had it. I dropped in the angine with the temp sensor clip left hanging in the engine bay. What are my options?

 

idk what you are going to have to do, mabe you can bypass the sensor, nismo will know for sure

 

Any other suggestions.

 

i figured pick would have chimed in by now

 

If it was me I would test the fuel Pressure, then shut the car off and it should hold fuel pressure for a very long time, over a day if everything's good, if your losing it fast I would check your Cold start valve, make sure its not leaking as that would make your car run rich, then make sure you Injectors arnt leaking as well. but thats a little harder to test.

Finally just clean every single connection and make sure there isnt any corrosion on any the the FI ones, it also wouldnt hurt to take off the grounds and sands them to a shine to make sure your getting a good ground. If your STILL running rich then look into your AFM then your TPS.

Does it have an O2? I would replace it if it does at this point

Erm... Make sure your Fuel pressure regulator is working right too! I think that covers everything possible short of the fuel pump!

 

Would the disconnected temp sensor be the root of all my problems? If so is there a way of adding the temp sensor some place or even "tricking" the car some how. It seems that there is already a temp sensor located on the thermostat housing. Can I connect both plugs to this sensor somehow?

 

Could be...

Are you using the ecu for the car, or for the new motor? If your new motor doesn't have that square water temp sensor, it has the cylinder head temp sensor... if it doesn't have the cyl head temp sensor, it has the water temp sensor... whichever you have, plug in that disconnected plug to it.

 

I am using the ecu for the car. I plugged in all the plugs except the one for the temp sensor on the block. Could it be possible that the 82 280zx had more than one of these sensors?

 

You should be using the ecu & harness for the motor...

Your car is an 82? What year is the motor?

 

It has been a while since I assembled it, but I believe that the block is from a 240z and the head is from a 280z.