This thread will be updated as I go. (This is not a how-to of any kind)

I just love finding vaccum lines secured by expando-foam and plugged (long-term) by screws... Gotta love previous owners. I though he would have taken better care of it since he was the only owner for the past 30 years.

Any advise is more than welcome...

 

Are you asking for advice on anything specific? Are you doing a full rebuild?

 

I am doing a full rebuild. I am planning on ordering the kit from Automotive and Truck Master engine rebuild kits and parts - RPM this week. Is this a good idea or is there better? The master rebuild kit is $625.

1 Question I did have was about the pistons. If I hone the cylinders will the pistons require bigger rings? (NOOB Question)

As for advise, anything that will help the rebuild go smoother.

I already have the engine and tranny out and will be putting it on a stand when I get off work today. I ordered a rebuild book and have the FSM printed out and Haynes manual so I should be good to go. But if there is 1 thing books can not accompany it would be experiance. When it comes to the inner workings of an engine I am a big NOOB.

 

End of day 2. Took some time but it is finally out and should be starting the disassembly today.

 

after honing the rings will have to be new, but not oversize in any way. follow a manual to ensure your end gap is correct.

 

I planned on new rings and valves, it had compression of 120psi on 5 of 6 cylinders and cylinder 4 had 90psi.

Thank you for the input.

 

After this you will be a pro! Seriously, the L-Series motor is right in the middle of easy and complicated, so once you get it figured out, other motors will be cake (if you ever want to rebuild again ).

Whenever I do a complete tear down, I clear another stall in my garage to lay everything out. Take pics and keep things organized. Nothing worse than losing a part in chaos.

 

Did you order the master rebuild kit in yet? You need to make sure you know what size parts you need to order (eg pistons, bearings, etc) depending on wear. Typically there isn't much wear on an L series engine because of the alloys used. The master rebuild kit is decent but I think a better way to go is:

Clevite main bearings (MS1106P)- $55
Clevite rod bearings (CB966P) - $26
ITM gasket set (09-00521) - $67
ARP head bolts (202-4206) - $150ish price has gone up on this part so you might want to shop around and see if you can get a better price. I found it for $135
ARP Rod bolts (202-6003) - $50
ITM Pistons (RY6134STD for NA - RY6140STD for Turbo - part number varies based on oversize) - $32 per piston/rings/wrist pins - excellent street performance piston - hypereutectic

If you want to upgrade the oil pump I recomend (based on a lot of research) the Melling M111 (as opposed to the M90) - $70 (great price at Northern Auto Parts!)

Northern Auto Parts has good pricing and carries all the above but they may need to order in the ITM pistons. Clarks Discount has good pricing as well.

 

I have not ordered the kit yet. I wanted to wait till I get the engine apart just in case I needed to bore it. Which after hearing all of the good things about the L-series and how they last damn near forever, I dont think I will need to.

I have 2 goals for this rebuild.

1. Get the car back on the road as a daily driver.
2. Get a better understanding of the inner workings, so when I do go for performance, later down the road, I will know what I am looking at.

I will look into those parts you mentioned (FricFrac).

I was going to start disassembly today but, it will be postponed untill tomorrow.

 

For performance down the road you'll be well on your way if you use the parts I listed - the bottom end will be done unless you want to go extreme. The only other budget upgrades that go a long way would be ceramic coating on the pistons (great for a turbo or high compression build) and shot peaning the rods. Other than that you'll need to spend money exponentially...

 

if you have a good shop nearby, take the rotating assembly and get it balanced. i wish i had done that for mine. so much so i may rip my engine out eventually and have it done. it makes the engine run so much nicer and if you need to rev it higher there is no worries. it also makes a bit more power as its not fighting harmonics. i cheaped out for the 200 they wanted and regret it. i spent near 6000 on my engine and cheaped out on that. go figure.

 

Ok so I am going to go ahead and sound like a dumba$$ real quick... By rotating assembly are you refering to the camshaft? Like I said in an earlier post I am a total NOOB to the inside of the engine.

I am actually taking it apart today so I should know the condition of the inside. As soon as I get it open and cleaned up I will post the pictures and see what you guys think...

 

Rotating assembly = crank, rods, pistons, bearings, rings, etc (all the bottom end "rotating" parts).

Inline 6's are fairly well balanced, but like Shady said, since it's all at the machine shop, you might as well get it checked / re-balanced.

 

Ok makes sense. So when I get it all apart and cleaned take the lower end and all the new parts in and have them hone or bore and balance it.

I need to find a good shop that will do the work. The 1 everyone I have talked to recomends a shop that charges $95/hr for labor. But, ya get what ya pay for right.

 

Machine shop or mechanic garage?

The machine shop should give you a total quote... like $800 to bore, balance, and install the rotating assembly.

Find a Japanese or Euro machine shop.

 

The shop was a mechanic shop. I will be looking for a machine shop tonight and doing some calling in the morning.

So I was able to take majority of the crap off the engine. The EGR has buildup like an old-school pot-belly stove. The tranny was just nasty! The fluid looked like burnt up oil. It does have an Excedy clutch though. I pulled a bolt out of the water pump and some dumb A$$ used calking to seal the BROKEN bolt WTF?!?! And here are the pictures...

 

I got a quote from a local machine shop of $180 to bore 1 size over and $210 to install and balance the rotating assembly. So, I should have it all torn down and cleaned this week and off to the shop Friday or Monday.

 

WOW, that's TWICE what I paid to have my cylinders bored .30 over

They a big name machine shop?

Damn

I paid less than 400 to have the cylinders bored, the head and block shaved, the head and block vatted, and the new .30 over pistons put on con rods

 

They are a local shop here is their website home I am looking into the process a little more and I will be going in their shop to get a better understanding of what they do for what amount of $ they charge.

 

You're in the Reno area? We have a few 280ZX members there. Evandubya and ZordieTrying might know a good machine shop.

 

Yeah I am in the Reno area. I sent a message to them. I will be doing some more shopping around tomorrow. When I take it apart should I strip it down to nothing or just leave the internals in it and take it to the shop?

I am running out of motivation from the heat and lack of circulation in my garage. Taking the rest of the day off and will get back to it tomorrow.

Good part all that is attatched still is the intake manifold and the headers.

 

I've never been to a machine shop, I have taken every machine/ welding class offered at WNCC. I'll ask my father-in-law, he'll know a good one!

 

Thank you,
Depending on cost I might just have the machine shop reinstall all of the internals.

 

I sent you a PM, and hope to see you at the next meet. I might give you a call and come check out your Z. I know you work grave (I do to) but what days do you have off.

 

Here are the most recent pictures.