Just dropped the block off at the machine shop for inspection, expecting good news. Also thinking about the cylinder heads, a rebuilt 1 is $450.

 

What's wrong w/ your cylinder head?

 

The way it looks that was the cause of most of the issues, it is at the shop getting inspected and I will know more later. It does show signs of vaccum leaks and a ton of buildup but the upper portion looks good. The shop was impressed by the cylinders still having the crosshatching but there is wear on each of them from the engine sitting for a long time.

Depending on what is going on with the head, if it just needs TLC and not a new 1. I will have them do a torque grind on the camshaft and polish the crank and bore the cylinders .30.

 

Might as well go .040" (1mm) overbore. I don't think .030 pistons and rings are readily available.

 

What is the gain on each .10 over? And if I went .40 do I have to upgrade anything else other than the obvious pistons?

 

You gain more displacement. Just pistons & rings, which you'll have to replace at any over bore size.

If you haven't checked this, do it now: http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/

 

I havent but will now. Thanks.

 

So, if I did this right I would get...

Displacement 2.753 to 2.818
Bore/Stoke Ratio 0.919 to 0.908
Static Compression Ratio 8.257 to 8.407

And everything else stays the same.

Just a thought, is 3.0L possible on the L28?

 

The Datsun Workshop 3.1 Stroker buildup

 

Flippin Redonkulous

 

Is that another way of saying the head is warped and it needs a valve job? It's not uncommon for a P90 to warp....

 

Not sure if the head is warped yet or not but I wouldn't be suprised.

 

I know this question is hard to answer but I am going to ask it anyway.

With the bore (lets say, .40 over), Cone intake filter and new piping (Spectre, the old was kinda busted up), pacesetter exhaust (from Motorsport), polished intake and head, pallnet fuel rail (I am sure that doesnt change power without upgraded injectors), torque grind on cam and polished crank is 165+hp realistic?

Also, does a rifled TB spacer do anything but look shiny?

I will replace the flywheel too if I have the cash ($440) after the rest of the rebuid is done.

 

Cone isn't going to give you a lot extra with an NA, exhaust and header will bump it up. Polished intake not much but ported on a turbo build is free HP. Reground cam is no good with the stock ECU (yes you can fudge it but it's pretty mickey mouse). You'll start to see performance wise why a turbo swap makes the most $$ sense. The turbo is 180HP stock and it's easy to get 250HP crank without a lot of mods and the money spent above can get you to 300RWHP on an L28ET

 

Thank you for more insight.

I should have bought the turbo but I, at the start, was more concerned with getting the car back on the road. I want to pick up a 240Z in a few years, after college and I am in a higher paying job that way I can drop an LS2 in it if I want.

 

I was told by the machine shop to drop the tank and clean the lines, is there a write up for this?

 

Get a runing parts turbo car. You can usally pick them up for $500 - $1000....

 

Just did a quick search and no joke notta in this area for turbos except a 300zx

 

^^^ Male about had a nervous breakdown 3 or 4 times because he couldn't find one... then found one the other day for $450.

Give it time... and hit your local classifieds a couple times a day.

 

Yeah I read his posts, kinda hard considering the spelling and grammar. I am in no hurry, I want to pick up an S30 later on and have that as my "FUN" car. Friends of mine think I am stupid for getting a Z "again" and giving my wife the WRX. I have said it before, it is a love for the car.

 

...or even your not so local classifieds. Worth the road trip. You've got to spend a lot of money just to get a NA to a stock turbo and mods to a turbo give you cheaper gains.

Where are you located?

 

I am in Sparks, NV. I am not too impressed with this place. I had my first Z in Hawaii and it was 1 of maybe 3 I saw during the 7 years I was stationed there. Here I find them all riced out and I die a little inside. The other day at summit racing I saw an 87 turbo in very sad condition and the guys put a set of 12s in it thinking they were cool. So sad. Fix the damn car first.

BTW FricFrac what year is the Z on the far right of your sig?

 

sorry to jump in here, but I've been following this thread pretty closely. That is mostly because the situation here is pretty similar to my own. I'm also going to try and do at least a partial rebuild, but on a L28et motor before I swap it into my n/a. Other than that, I have the same goal of understanding the inner workings of the motor a little bit better, and in the process I would like to squeeze a little more HP out of the motor (nothing crazy, just about 250hp).

I've done a compression test, and here are the results:

1 - 125psi
2 - 125psi
3 - 125psi
4 - 127psi
5 - 130psi
6 - 122psi

I put in a bit of motor oil (as the haynes instructs), and the psi improved by approx 15-20 psi in the cylinder. Again, according to the hayne's this means that there is either wear on the pistons, rings, cylinders, or some combination of those. FricFrac posted some great info on what pistons to get and where to look to get them, but here's my dummy question (I do get a couple of dummy questions each day, right guys? guys?): how on earth do I figure out if I need new rings, pistons, cylinder work or all of the above? If I need pistons or rings, then how do I find out what size I need? Do I have to take it into a machine shop and have it measured? I did search in google, but I couldn't find a ton beyond "the standard size should be fine."

 

I have a complete turbo swap I'm selling for $900. PM me if you're interested, I live two hours south of you

 

You don't need to touch the internals at all to obtain 250hp. Just an efficient intercooler, tuned ecu (MSnS or NisTune), proper injectors, and a boost controller.

I don't have the FSM in front of me, but are these numbers not normal? The L28ET has a low 7.4:1 compression ratio for boost.

The wet test should be higher than dry test. If the numbers are the same, or close, then you'd have a problem.

Blue exhaust smoke is a dead give away for toasted rings and or valves. I don't think your motor needs to be opened up at all from your inspection findings.

You'd reuse the stock pistons and just buy a re-ring kit unless you wanted / needed to go overbore, or if the pistons had damage.