I should actually say it's easier than that. You can probably get to 250whp running nothing more than an intercooler, 14psi boost, and a RR fuel pressure regulator. But it would not be safe or reliable. The stock 259cc injectors would be maxed out (mine are).

Lifegrddude was running SVO 370cc injectors and a dialed back AFM. He was probably close to 270hp (he posted all about it a few years ago).

 

I wasn't initially planning on doing anything internal beyond replacing gaskets. I thought I had to replace the pistons anyway, so I figured I might as well tinker around.

I was just going off of the haynes manual. It said that standard should be 178psi, and anything below (I think) 140psi meant that the pistons or cylinders needed work. I just pulled up the FSM, though, and it says that standard compression is 142psi, and the minimum is 100psi, so I think you are right. Like I said, I just was following what what in the haynes manual. Same thing with the wet test. It said that if compression improved with a wet test, then it was worn pistons/rings, but if it stayed the same, it was something with the valves. Now I'm beginning to doubt anything in the haynes.

Definitely nothing like blue exhaust smoke out of the engine. Would new rings get me back up to standard compression, though? Or is the drop from 140 to 125 not significant enough to affect performance?

 

The Haynes is literally a compilation of all 79-83 FSM's, but obviously consolidated and generalized. Those 178psi specs are for the L28E high compression motor. I've driven and inspected that car, and from your compression test, I wouldn't rebuild the entire motor unless you want to spend lots of $$$ and do upgrades while you are in there.

I guess if you plan to make the car your daily driver for the next 10 years, do a rebuild now, but your chassis will need a lot of love by then too.

It's really a question of "when / where / how much to get you satisfied with the car?"

 

So, does this mean i shouldn't even need the head gasket set? If that's the case, then I would just clean off the engine and go ahead with the swap. Before yesterday's test, I was basically just planning on using the felpro head gasket set, and changing out the rubber for fuel lines, vacuum lines, and things like that. If I don't have to even use replace the gaskets from the set, that will make things to a lot quicker.

 

Replace the water pump & gasket. And depending on the condition of the current one, replace the intake / exhaust gasket and hardware (look for carbon build up or burnt gasket at cyl #1 and 6).

Once you have the engine on a stand, you'll be able to go through it and check everything. Don't order parts until you know what you need.

 

Is it possible with the forum software when someone types in rebuild and engine the screen fills up with :

Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.

 

I believe that is "Rachel" - 1972 Datsun 240Z, I am personally in love with that car, I believe fricfrac bought it in a pretty cherry restored condition, but he has done some nice improvements to her, the engine bay is to die for, IMHO. The car is just very sweet !! .... Cheers to him for his dedication to our Hobby.

 

in my defense, the head gasket idea was BECAUSE of searching through the forum and seeing how often this site is linked to in rebuild/swap threads. It says "Another thing to get is a gasket kit. Felpro makes them for the L-series sixes, and I think Mr. Gasket too. Buy some gasket sealer and high temp silicon to seal all the gaskets (some don't require sealer(ie head gasket), so see the manuals). NAPA carries a lot of good brush on gasket sealers."

 

If there is will there is a way!

I am still waiting on the shop to tell me the condition of everything. It is very tempting to just jump on that turbo engine from evandubya but, the last thing I want to do is rip apart another engine if anything is wrong with it.

Are the rotating assemblies interchangable?

 

^^^

"Rotating assembly" is a general term to describe a lot of parts.

The L28ET and low compression L28E use dished low compression pistons (they are different part#'s though). The L28E high compression motor uses flat tops.

 

Ok, as tempting as it is I think I will just stick out the n/a motor. I am hoping to hear from the shop soon so I can order everything.

 

I picked up my engine parts from the shop Tuesday. They are lookin good. I am starting reassembly soon and have already started priming and painting. So, hopefully my Z will be back on the road soon.

 

How did you prep the block before you painted it?

 

After having the shop clean it I made sure there wasn't any loose crap on it then primed it with 500 degree dupli-color metal base coat. Then used the same line of paint for the blue.

 

Looks good so far, I've enjoyed this thread, been a fun read, nice to see you will have her back together soon. I like the fact that you have taken the time to dress up the engine, as far as repainting and getting the parts nice and clean, use a nice thin coat of sealer on the gaskets (Valve cover, oil pan etc) and torque everything down slowly working your way up in Lbs and she should be leak free. Nice to keep it looking pretty after all your hard work !! Cheers

 

Thanks for the support,
I will take my time with the reasembly, last thing I need is a leak.

 

The damn machine shop ordered me the wrong size piston rings! So not only do I have to wait till monday to take them in, I have to wait till they get the right ones in... I guess its back to cleaning and painting.

 

Got the bearings in, put the crank in, set the caps in place, set the torque wrench to 36lbs (book says 33-40lbs), snapped the first bolt right off in the center cap. WTF?!?!?!?!?

Motorsport! ARP Main Cap Stud Kit, 70-83 Z/ZX - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts
Is there a cheaper place to pick them up?

 

1983 NISSAN ARP Main Stud Kits - L6 Engine Type - SummitRacing.com
a lot better deal, appears to be the same thing
and this even less same thing about 100$ free shipping
http://thmotorsports.com/i-61571.asp...FWHZQgoddSwARg

 

Summit would be perfect, I live right across the street and always forget about them since their catalog is only American cars.

 

You don't want those - you want the head bolts...

 

The bolt I broke is for the center cap holding the crankshaft in. Aren't those stud bolts?

I have the ARP Rod & Head bolts. What is it that makes them better than any other?

 

Got the head,rod, and cap bolts. Installed the crank & pistons to spec.

On the #5 piston it is stamped 23 P79 and all of the others are stamped 45 P79 does anyone know why this would be and does it make a difference?

 

Like this?

These are my L28ET P90 1MM (0.040") overbore pistons.

 

Yeah like that. Ill post a pic when I get to work.