For the rail I wanted it to stay unpainted but I really want to blue the stripes and nissan on the cover but I have been stressing about getting it running.

And for the uno photo I had a few angles but they did not turn out so I will post more soon.

I did not use the transmission bolts to mount it to the stand. I went out to Lowes and bought some new longer bolts to use.

 

Had to take the hood back off to get some good light. Damn garage lighting.

I should be dropping the gas tank for cleaning and sealing this week.

I still have a lot of work ahead but, on the bright side I did get the interior back together. Topped off with Mr. Happy...

 

I was planing on putting the dip stick and its tube in today since, like a dumbass, I forgot to do so while rebuilding the engine.

Well... I have this odd feeling the tube or the stick are not original. The tube has a decent bend in it and the stick is not flexable therefore will not feed all the way through the tube without significant force. Also, the rubber stopper does not fit in the tube.

My question is simple... is this the right tube or not.

Other than that I have finished most of the wiring and vacuum lines and should be ready to turn the key soon.

 

i don't think so.

 

Tube isnt, the stick looks like the right one tho

 

The good thing is its only $3 from the Z store so, I guess I will triple check and see if I need to order anything else.

 

I should be able to turn the key over soon. But, that wont make any difference since one of the throttle linkage pieces broke.

Does anyone know where I can get the linkage that connects to the TB? OR is it possible to run a cable without flipping the TB?

 

So today I filled the radiator double checked hoses and sprung a leak. Turns out I missed two bolts on the water pump when I torqued them down. WTF. Also after fixing that issue I turned the key and as I have been warned of it didnt start but it sprung a fuel leak on the return line. That turned out to be a bad hose clamp. Fixed and tried to crank again and boom a new leak by the fuel tank. -pic-

If I touch the rubber hose fuel pours out. Other than injection hose does this one have to be anything special as I see the braids on it.

 

Today I replaced the old fuel lines and tested them for leaks and BAM no leaks.

I tried starting it again and notta... I am getting fuel, power, spark, and oil pressure, and the motor is turning over but not even a sputter.

I did pull a couple ball bearings out of the distributor today while trying to troubleshoot.

Looks like its time to go on a searching rampage again... Any thoughts?

 

If in fact you have the three elements necessary for the engine to run; air, fuel and spark and you have good compression (all at the correct moment) it should run. The only thing that could prevent your engine from running is not having the spark at the correct time.
Engines are not really complicated. You can't control air other than you have it or not. If you have gas, even if it's at the wrong time some would remain in the cylinder to sputter if the spark is at the right time and strong enough.
I would say go back to basics.
Try spraying carb cleaner or a shot of ether into intake to see if it will run or just try to start. If it doesn't, it just is most likely weak or bad timed spark.
Just suggestions from experience.

 

Could a worn distributor cap create the same issue?
I am by myself till tomorrow night so I am limited on what testing I can do, as I do not know all the nifty tricks to test compression without someone turning the key while I or the other person watches the gauge.

I am sure it wouldn't hurt to change the coil, cap, and rotor anyway. I doubt the PO changed them in the 30 years he had the car.

 

Simply check for spark at all 6 spark plugs.
Simply check to make sure the rotor is positioned correctly for TDC on cyl #1.

 

So is it the actual cyl or #1 on the cap? I checked it and mine is pointed at the #1 on the cap.

I checked for TDC with every "timing" component as I installed them and double checked it before I installed the engine.

I did order new ones anyway JIC. I do understand that wont solve the problem if the rotor isn't lined up right.

 

At TDC cyl #1 the rotor should be pointed straight forward toward the front of the car, directly under spark plug wire port #1 on the distributor cap.

If you truly have a hot spark, and proper fuel delivery, and it won't start, the timing is off (either cam or distributor).

 

Here are two pictures of the distributor, with the motor at cylinder#1@TDC.
One with where the rotor should be pointing. If this is how it is you should be good.
These are not my pictures just "borrowed them" for reference.

Hope they help

 

Well I just went down and looked at the rotor and it is pointing between 1 & 2. Tomorrow I will adjust the distributor and what happens.

Thanks for all the help you guys have given me as I know it has to be frustrating answering the same questions 400 times.

 

Just reading some of the old posts and you say that you pulled a couple of ball bearings out of the distributor. They are usually on a plate that controls the vacuum advance. They keep it even and smooth moving, even without them it should run but not well as you rev it up.
This is another place to look if all else fails.
There are some good distributor rebuild documentation pages with just a little search.
I have a "backup" distributor rebuilt and ready to go. Parts are still available from Nissan but a bit pricey.

 

Yeah the bearings were just sitting in there hanging onto the side of the magnet. I will look into the rebuild tonight.

 

Bought this refurbished distributor for my 83' 280zx, ended up not needing it, paid $220 for it, i can't return it because its been to long. So if anybody wants it it's theirs for $100. Call me or email me at 971-998-2814, or connoracravens@gmail.com. I prefer calls. I have the ability to ship this part anywhere in the u.s for free because I work at a packaging company. So the shipping is on me!

Saw this on the zcar site. Something to consider if you are interested. The price is good.

 

I hope I can salvage this one. I will be spending most of today working on this thing since today is my sunday and I wont be able to work on it during my work week.

 

Twiggs280 I only posted that ad from Zcar because it was such a good deal. The little plastic plate that retains the bearings in the distributor is about 70 from the dealer. A few industrious people have actually made their own out of a sheet of plastic. Without the plate the distributor will not advance or if stuck in the advance area usually will not return to normal. The vacuum pull on the side of the dist is another area that fails over time. Vacuum just flows through it but has no effect. Again should run or start just badly.

I do hope you discover the underlying issue as I know you are probably getting a little frustrated.

I had a vacuum leak on my 280ZX that I should have found in 5 mins that took almost a month. I got off track and then down the yellow brick road to nowhere.
I can laugh now but it was not so funny while I was chasing my tail.

 

Definitely getting frustrating

I checked TDC and it turns out the crank pulley is off +3 and the rotor is pointing just off of where the photo shows it should be. Is this fixable without pulling the crank pulley? If not FML.

 

The crank pulley is keyed and should not be movable for the timing mark. As far as I know it can only go on to the crank one way.
As for the timing being off I just can't offer any reasonable explanation.

It would seem to me that it should at least try to run even the way it is, even if is running poorly. You do not have even a hint of trying to run?

Are you positive you have gas in the cylinders? Spark at all plugs?

 

I will be checking for power on all injectors and I pulled apart the distributor and found the magnetic piece is broken.

As for the crank I completely forgot about the key so yeah that's not gong anywhere. I might have to pull the oil pump and re-align the shaft.

 

If the magnetic piece is broken it could keep you from getting the trigger to give a good spark at the correct time. Might be a good time to work over the distributor.