These are the S30 fusible link ratings... but I imagine the S130's are similar (maybe the FSM has the specs?):

http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fusiblelinks/

 

Thank you nismo I will double-check the FSM when I get home. Today is sit around at the VA and wait day.

 

So I looked through the FSM section EL-6 and the routing diagram is there f the FL but I still cannot find the rating for them. The write up you (NismoPick) posted showed 50A Maxi Fuses in the box but the color chart shows different.

I went to AutoZone and the FL wires they have are in 14 and 16 gage but do not show the amperage rating for them.

 

Were they colored? Are they OE spec (according to AutoZone)?

 

They were grey and generic they said they don't have anything specific to the 280zx.

 

So I stopped off at Summit Racing today and picked up a black FL (GM Starter) and put on some connectors on it, pugged it in and POOF fire, cracking, and smoke...lots of smoke. So either the GM starter FL is too weak or I have a much bigger problem.

I did remove the PO's crappy alarm system and I double checked the wiring today and it is all secure and from what I can tell and referencing the Haynes manual it is correct. I disconnected the power cable for the amp that isn't even in the car. And I took the stereo out (for other reasons, yesterday). So far I cannot find a reason for this thing to keep burning up. I will try again in 4 days during my weekend.

 

So what was this new fusible link rated at?

 

Sadly just like all of the others I have found there isn't a rating. But it was a 14ga. Part number 5551PT.

 

14 Gauge wire is typically rated for 15A. Under some ideal conditions you could probably stretch it to 20 but would be unwise. So I don't think that your 14GA fusible link was adequate.
It was always my understanding that fusible links were made of resistive wire, kind of like a toaster element. They would take some heat then fail.

 

This makes two FL's to fail. I will try an in line fuse since I have one extra. I will also be buying a multmeter.

 

I think you need to place an ammeter in that line to see just how much current is being drawn. Seems to be a very large amount.

Have you ever had a FL that lasted any length of time? You could also wire in a circuit breaker while testing/troubleshooting to avoid the repurchase program of Fusible Links.

Just something to consider.

Here is some info I borrowed from the Hybrid Z web site. All credit should go to Tommyboy.

"Alrighty guys after a lot, and I mean A LOT, of searching and hoping, I did it!!! I finally finally found out that the fusible link amp ratings found on this link:
http://www.atlanticz...inks/index.html
are right for the 280ZX's also. I know some of you are asking yourselves, "Sow how can this be true when there aren't any amp ratings for brown fusible links?" Well here it is...apparently, the fusible links that we all think (including good ol' Nissan) are brown, are ACTUALLY red! I know, I know, they don't really look red. More like a rust color eh? I mean, even Nissan has 'em labeled as brown when you order them! Even though they're labeled brown, they have the same amp rating as the red ones. I found a thread on one of the Z forums online where a guy tested the fusible links out of a 280ZX and his findings were that the greens fry around 40 amps, the browns (reds) fry at around 50 amps, and the black ones fry around 80 amps (just like the linked page above says). Well, there it is folks. A little FYI though, I'm gonna be installing a Maxi fuse block in my car in the next few days, so I'll keep ya posted as to how it's running. GOOD LUCK ALL!!!"

 

The first one I had blow was 31 years old when it popped so, yes lasted a while.
What I don't get about it is, it lasted 31 years and now they cannot hold. I did not touch any interior wires till after this FL fried.
It would still be nice to know the rating of the original so I can plug in the properly rated fuse.

As for the meter, I should be able to pick one up today.

 

80A Good God no wonder the GM one fried.

 

If it actually saw 80A the 14ga wire would just go off like a flash bulb.

Obviously it was seeing way more than the 15-20A it could carry safely.

Time to hit the Nissan store or the salvage yard for a "good" old one.

 

I decided to cheat and see how a in line fuse would hold up. So, I took the amp wire I mentioned, hooked it up, plugged in a 30A (just cuz its what I had) and BAM it worked fine.

Not a single issue till... the battery died and apparently the alternator is shot too. Damn thing wont hold a charge. After I jumped it the volt-gage was in in the yellow and I drove for less then 5 min around the block and the dead batt/alt gloom set it then dead. Needles to say Rum is in order.

 

GM one-wire!!!!!! no more gloom!!!!! Get the 100 Amp from summit, you'll like it!!!

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-811001/overview/

Here is the one I found and I am looking into. It'll be a while before I can get it though. Plus a new battery.

I will be searching for info on the oil pressure gage/pressure too. It drops to 0 under load.

 

That's the one!!

 

Alt is finally out. Tomorrow will be doesn't measuring and prepping to cut.

 

After some cutting and grinding the 100 amp one wire alternator is mounted and the new battery is in. As soon as that key completed the circuit that motor fired right up!

The FL I blew isn't even in the car and everything is working with the exception of the temp gage and the clock.

Even though the gauge isn't working I know this motor is running very hot. I did notice one of the belts was too tight. Would this have enough effect on the motor to make it run hot?

 

Define "hot" with a temperature. Any engine at operating temp will feel "hot" to the touch. Use an infrared thermometer and measure the temp at the thermostat housing. It should be close to the temp rating of the thermostat used (usually 180*F-190*F).

 

Well the temp gauge started working and stayed just under half. No over heating/boiling.

I took the car to work (a whole 5.5 miles) and other than an exhaust leak and the diff clunk on deceleration there haven't been any issues.

All in all I am feeling pretty considering this is my first rebuild.

Now to go fix the exhaust leak and find the short in the temp gauge.

 

Twiggs has done an amazing job on his rebuild!!

 

Thank you sir! I am looking forward to seeing your progress next time we come down.

 

Fab work is almost done, but the scary electronics are still looming over my head!