83' Turbo Minor Performance Issues - AFM?
#26
yes those are the o-rings the small ones go on the tip of the injector and the bigger ones go around the injector where the injector holder is at . if the injector that is leaking is in the front towards the radiator or in the middle they all have to come out you do not need to take the hoses of the fuel rail just undo the two screws holding the injectors down where the plastic holders are at . the injector that will be replaced undo the clamp that holds the injector to the fuel rail take a razor blade and cut the injector hose down the center this will make it easier to come out . then just put w-d 40 on the new injector hose and the rail slide it in the rail and that is it ,you will be able to move the injector up and down to line it up for the injector holder to fit it back in the manifoil ,now the other injectors you will just replace the bottom o-ring if you do not want to take the middle o-ring out sometimes the o-rings on the bottom get stuck so you might need to pull them out with pliers or a screwdriver one more thing if any of the injector holders are cracked the plastic ones replace them or you will need to replace them later .but it is very easy to do i can replace all 6 injectors in about 1 hour .i hope this helps my writting is not very good that is why I majored in electrical engineering.TEXAS A&M GIG EM AGGIES
#27
Many thanks runningjalapeno - I think I understood all that.
Couple of questions:
If i wanted to also change the middle o-ring on al the injectors would I have to remove them completely from the fuel rail?
Only other thing I'm not sure about is that you seem to be advising that I keep the injectors I'm not changing connected to the fuel rail.
Earlier in this thread Duowing suggested that it's much easier to reinstall the fuel rail if the injectors are already connected to the manifold.
Any thoughts?
Couple of questions:
If i wanted to also change the middle o-ring on al the injectors would I have to remove them completely from the fuel rail?
Only other thing I'm not sure about is that you seem to be advising that I keep the injectors I'm not changing connected to the fuel rail.
Earlier in this thread Duowing suggested that it's much easier to reinstall the fuel rail if the injectors are already connected to the manifold.
Any thoughts?
#29
Do you mean to remove the rail with all fuel injectors still attached?
That's what I presume, but duowing mentioned earlier that I should reconnect the injectors back to the manifold BEFORE reinstalling the fuel rail. So I just wasn't sure which way round to do it.
Although, if i want to change both o-rings on all the injector then I have to disonnect them completely right?
Also - is there any trick to taking off the wire connection harness clips (the ones with the metal wire fastener)? I had a really tought time with the one on the AFM when I did that.
Thanks!
That's what I presume, but duowing mentioned earlier that I should reconnect the injectors back to the manifold BEFORE reinstalling the fuel rail. So I just wasn't sure which way round to do it.
Although, if i want to change both o-rings on all the injector then I have to disonnect them completely right?
Also - is there any trick to taking off the wire connection harness clips (the ones with the metal wire fastener)? I had a really tought time with the one on the AFM when I did that.
Thanks!
#30
Originally Posted by kiboy6
Do you mean to remove the rail with all fuel injectors still attached?
Originally Posted by kiboy6
That's what I presume, but duowing mentioned earlier that I should reconnect the injectors back to the manifold BEFORE reinstalling the fuel rail. So I just wasn't sure which way round to do it.
Originally Posted by kiboy6
Although, if i want to change both o-rings on all the injector then I have to disonnect them completely right?
Originally Posted by kiboy6
Also - is there any trick to taking off the wire connection harness clips (the ones with the metal wire fastener)? I had a really tought time with the one on the AFM when I did that.
Thanks!
Thanks!
#31
Thanks so much for the helpful advice NismoPick...just want to make sure I have all my ducks in a row before I take on what for me is a fairly big venture!
One more question about this - are the two lower o-rings you're talking about the ones i bought here:
http://www.autozone.com/R,APP1172976...ductDetail.htm
I think that's what you meant, and if so do you think I should leave the injectors I'm not changing atached to the fuel rail the whole time so as not to push my luck with old hoses?
Is it much more fiddly to reinstall the fuel rail that way (as opposed to duowing's way)
Finally (and I really think I'm done with the questions now!)- any general tricks to changing those o-rings?
Thanks so much
Originally Posted by NismoPick
The only o-rings you can personally replace are the lower o-rings (one for the manifold, one for the mount to the manifold) which do not require injector removal from the fuel rail. Any other seals or o-rings (which are internal) need to be replaced by a professional.
One more question about this - are the two lower o-rings you're talking about the ones i bought here:
http://www.autozone.com/R,APP1172976...ductDetail.htm
I think that's what you meant, and if so do you think I should leave the injectors I'm not changing atached to the fuel rail the whole time so as not to push my luck with old hoses?
Is it much more fiddly to reinstall the fuel rail that way (as opposed to duowing's way)
Finally (and I really think I'm done with the questions now!)- any general tricks to changing those o-rings?
Thanks so much
Last edited by kiboy6; 05-16-2008 at 01:55 PM.
#32
Yep... those be the o-rings. Yes, leave the injectors you aren't replacing alone (unless the stock hoses look cracked).
Tricks... none. Tips: Removing old o-rings: The upper (larger) ones will probably break apart when you remove them (from being brittle). If not, the easiest way to get them off is to stick a mini flathead screwdriver underneath & slide it down that way.
Tricks... none. Tips: Removing old o-rings: The upper (larger) ones will probably break apart when you remove them (from being brittle). If not, the easiest way to get them off is to stick a mini flathead screwdriver underneath & slide it down that way.
#33
Ok ...status report!
Good news
all going pretty well...thanks to everyone'es kind advice here i was able to summon up the courage to take on removing the fuel rail....it was incredibly fiddly but i got there in the end!...planning to reinstall tomorrow.
Bad news
I managed to drop the last f'in screw i took out somewhere in the engine. I read duowing's tale of woe when he did the same thing (blew up his radiator or something) and now i don;t know what to do...I don;t want to start the car without finding it, but I just can't find (or feel!) it anywhere
Tomorrow I'm planning on trying out a strong magnet, and maybe jacking the back of the car up...any other ideas?
So annoying...it was the very last injector screw i took out ....keeping my fingers crossed I figure out some way to find the damn thing...
Good news
all going pretty well...thanks to everyone'es kind advice here i was able to summon up the courage to take on removing the fuel rail....it was incredibly fiddly but i got there in the end!...planning to reinstall tomorrow.
Bad news
I managed to drop the last f'in screw i took out somewhere in the engine. I read duowing's tale of woe when he did the same thing (blew up his radiator or something) and now i don;t know what to do...I don;t want to start the car without finding it, but I just can't find (or feel!) it anywhere
Tomorrow I'm planning on trying out a strong magnet, and maybe jacking the back of the car up...any other ideas?
So annoying...it was the very last injector screw i took out ....keeping my fingers crossed I figure out some way to find the damn thing...
#35
Unless you've taken it apart more than you should have, the only place it could get "into the motor" is through the injector ports on the manifold. Get a telescoping magnet & stick it down there... if nothing, then it prolly fell to the ground or onto some ledge in the engine bay.
#36
It definitely didn't go down one of the injector ports...the injectors were still in place when I dropped it.
So....it's just somehwere in the engine bay....I wouldn't be that concerned if it weren't for the fact that I remember reading somewhere on here that duowing did the same thing and the screw / bolt got into the fan and blew a hole in the radiator (or something like that)....
I will wave a telescopic magnet around the bay anyway (one of them wouldn't be strong enough to damage any boards would it?)
But failing that, you don't think I should worry too much if I don't find it?
Thanks!
So....it's just somehwere in the engine bay....I wouldn't be that concerned if it weren't for the fact that I remember reading somewhere on here that duowing did the same thing and the screw / bolt got into the fan and blew a hole in the radiator (or something like that)....
I will wave a telescopic magnet around the bay anyway (one of them wouldn't be strong enough to damage any boards would it?)
But failing that, you don't think I should worry too much if I don't find it?
Thanks!
#38
Well...no luck finding that screw....I bought a replacement so I guess I'll just cross my fingers when i start it up when I'm done....
However I won't be done until...I sort out replacing the electrical clips that clip onto each injector...while removing the PITA metal clips the old dry plastic broke on quite a few of the clips....didn't think it was too bad until i started reinstalling today and realised that a few of them are just too cracked to do the job any more (also not helped by the fact that the metal wire bit seems two have disappeared from a couple!)
So....what would be the easiest way to replace these clips?
A little searching led me to this guide:
http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techti...ors/index.html
That seems like quite a good guide, but still rather daunting - especially as I guess I'll have to be doing all the wire cutting and crimping whilst under the hood?
Anyone have any suggestions for the easiest way out of this predicament? If possible it would be great if this could be achieved without having to order parts and wait for them - if I don't get the Z fired up by the end of Monday, I'l have to find someone to help me push it uphill to avoid a ridiculous L.A parking ticket!
Thanks so much as always to everyone who's been so kind to help me out so far....wouldn't have been able to begin to do any of this without all your help
However I won't be done until...I sort out replacing the electrical clips that clip onto each injector...while removing the PITA metal clips the old dry plastic broke on quite a few of the clips....didn't think it was too bad until i started reinstalling today and realised that a few of them are just too cracked to do the job any more (also not helped by the fact that the metal wire bit seems two have disappeared from a couple!)
So....what would be the easiest way to replace these clips?
A little searching led me to this guide:
http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techti...ors/index.html
That seems like quite a good guide, but still rather daunting - especially as I guess I'll have to be doing all the wire cutting and crimping whilst under the hood?
Anyone have any suggestions for the easiest way out of this predicament? If possible it would be great if this could be achieved without having to order parts and wait for them - if I don't get the Z fired up by the end of Monday, I'l have to find someone to help me push it uphill to avoid a ridiculous L.A parking ticket!
Thanks so much as always to everyone who's been so kind to help me out so far....wouldn't have been able to begin to do any of this without all your help
#39
Just read somewhere else on the forum NismoPick mentioning the possibility of using garden ties to keep the existing cracked ones in place.
Might this work...if I can avoid getting in over my head with wire splicing that would be great
If so, how should i "tie" the two parts together - anything to be careful of?
Thank you!
Might this work...if I can avoid getting in over my head with wire splicing that would be great
If so, how should i "tie" the two parts together - anything to be careful of?
Thank you!
#40
#41
Many thanks NismoPick - would that fit directly into a harness that's already on my Z with no splicing necessary?
If so that would be too good to be true! What exactly would I ask for if I ring around trying to find it?
If not, what do you think about the viability of garden ties on the two or 3 cracked connectors?
If so that would be too good to be true! What exactly would I ask for if I ring around trying to find it?
If not, what do you think about the viability of garden ties on the two or 3 cracked connectors?
#42
That GM harness is not a direct connect. As you can see, it's designed for a V6, not straight six. You would have to cut & splice... not a big deal. I just soldered mine & used heat shrink wrap.
As for the garden ties... yep... they will work. So will bailing wire and garbage can twist ties.
As for the garden ties... yep... they will work. So will bailing wire and garbage can twist ties.
#43
Cool...Is there any direct connect solution available?
And if i go the garden tie route, do you recommend just running them through what remains of the original groove for the metal clip and then around a couple more times?
And if i go the garden tie route, do you recommend just running them through what remains of the original groove for the metal clip and then around a couple more times?
#44
Originally Posted by kiboy6
Cool...Is there any direct connect solution available?
Originally Posted by kiboy6
And if i go the garden tie route, do you recommend just running them through what remains of the original groove for the metal clip and then around a couple more times?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
zwhore
FS: 240Z,260Z,280Z & 280ZX (70-83)
3
07-30-2012 12:31 PM
Poindexter
240Z, 260Z, 280Z (S30) Forums
1
05-15-2008 06:35 AM
Bookmarks