n00blar

Ugh, sucks.

Yeah, those screws are such a pain in the ****!! I mean, c'mon...

I got one of the screws out, so I guess I'm going to try to get a bent phillips and try it that way; although, I doubt it will work.

Nonetheless, I will remove the dash, since I'm about to buy that dash cap and change the 3-gauges panel and a better looking gauge cluster - I was just hoping this would be easier to replace. :|

SpeciallySpiked

Yeah, my dad was whining the whole time to me because I had forgotten that bendy screw driver at home. It has been quite handy though if you do end up getting one.

So you can take it out with out cutting things! Haha, that's great to hear, I'm gonna go run out and look at that peice now, I feel like being productive.

jfairladyz

Its meant to control the flow of coolant through the heater core. An expample of a bad heater valve: If you're getting hot air flowing into the cabin, even when the heater is off, then you've got a bad heater valve. A leak is another obvious sign that the valve is bad.

n00blar

Ok, I finally replaced that heater valve and it was such a pain!!!!
Anyways, it was fun since I got to replace the dash speakers and now I'm just waiting for the dash cap that's coming next week. Not to mention I'm going to replace the guages...but, yeah, that valve was a real pain.

SHADY280

what do other vehicles use in place of this valve, and could we adapt it to our application?

duowing

I've got a few questions I decided I'd post in this thread rather than starting a new one. In response to nooblar's oil gauge. Mine will do that upon startup, but after a few moments it'll go down to lower levels. A few questions I've had.

1.) MY gas gauge, although it works and is generally accurate seems to jump around a little from time to time. I'll be driving and then all of a sudden it shows a little higher than it is. It seems to do this until it gets about halfway between empty and half a tank, then it's pretty accurate. It might have something to do with the bobber or whatever is in the fuel tank?

2.) After changing out all my injectors to new ones, it's gotten rid of the injector leak, the oil thing is I swear I smell fuel once in a while upon startup, but only for a few moments and then it goes away, is this something to be concerned with? Also at times it seems like it takes a bit longer to crank over now then it used to, but it'll crank over and run fine.

3.) How do I change out the dome light that will come on when the door's are open? The light seems to be burned out and I don't know how you'd get to it without removing some of the headliner.

WildmaN

For the dome light take a small thin flat-head screwdriver. And gently pry off the white cover. And there will be 2 phillips screws, to remove. If it is necessary. I am sure if you change out the bulb, it should work again. So just pop off the white plastic cover, and change out the bulb first. If not start taking the dome light fixture out of the roof. You shouldn't have to mess with the headliner. Unless for some strange reason, because you have a 2 + 2. Anyway hope this helps you out on that part.

As for the raw fuel smell, if it is there for a small time. And then goes away, I wouldn't worry about it. Unless it is a constant smell, and continues As for the oil gauge, probably either the sending unit, or dirty or faulty contacts on the wires.

On the fuel sending unit in your tank, probably has dirty or corroded contacts. Or the sending unit needs to be replaced. But it is not a cheap part, so if your gauge works still allright. I wouldn't worry about it too much.

jfairladyz

The fuel odor may be the charcoal canister. If thats the case then it's no big deal. The filter on the bottom may just need to be replaced. That is really the only source of a fuel odor other than a line or the tank. But those most likely wouldn't be a temporary condition and you would smell those full time.

On the gas guage, I agree with WildmaN. The sender is probably just aging and slow due to corrosion or wear. It might have a certain point where it gets hung up. But once you're below that point in fuel it no longer gets caught up there. These tanks aren't baffled and so the fuel tends to slosh around which can raise the sender to the point where it gets hung up and gives a false reading til it recovers. Not a big deal.

SHADY280

there is a baffle in the tank

jfairladyz

Ok, poorly baffled then I know the fuel sloshes around a lot.

SHADY280

better than nothin. anyway to install a summit 22 gal cell and retain our stock guage?

jfairladyz

depends on the way our guages read resistance. The summit ones I believe come with a 0ohms=full, 90ohms= empty type sender. But I also know that they carry different type senders. Thats just what I've seen included with their cells. That's most likely what the typical GM vehicle uses So if you can find the right sender then yeah, you can keep the stock guages.

duowing

Alright I'm trying to fix my hatch release cable. The guy I bought it from just disconnected the cable from the rear latch, because the cable was pulling on the latch and preventing the hatch from locking. So I was messing around, and there's not remotely enough slack it seems to have the cable go from the clamp to the latch. It also doesn't seem right from the driver's seat, the latch doesn't seem to really act like the cable is there putting resistance against the lever. I don't know if I need to buy a whole new cable or if this can be fixed. I was trying to mess around with it, but I couldn't figure it out. Anyway does anyone know where I could buy a new cable? I'm looking on MSA's site and I can't seem to find any sign of a cable for the hatch. Also, when the cable runs from the driver's seat side, to the back latch should there be much play in the cable up the latch or should it be a pretty snug fit?

For that dome light, the bulb is just dead. I was messing with it and it flickered then wouldn't come back on. Anyway does anyone know what type of bulb this is, or should they be able to find it for me at the store?

jfairladyz

Just bring the bulb with you. They should be able to cross reference it by looking up the car. I know if you go to Autozone they can get into their computer and pull up what kind of bulb it is. But bring your old one to be sure its the same.

duowing

If anyone has any info on that hatch release cable that'd be great. As for the sending unit, is that easy to go about pulling out and cleaning the contacts off?

jfairladyz

Just pull up the carpet and foam pad in the hatch and you'll have access to the fuel tank. From there access to the sending unit is right on top.

Not too sure on the hatch cable though Never had to fiddle with one on a Z before. If it's anything like the hood release then that cable has enough slack to easily allow it to be attached at either end. If it's too taught to reach then it's probably caught up somewhere. When you pull the release lever you should be able to feel the slight tension from the cable as it pulls the hatch latch. You'll then here an audible click as the latch opens. And if this is a 2+2 make sure it's not a 2seater cable you're trying to use as its probably just short enough to not quite reach the latch.

duowing

Alright, got the dome light working, combination of bulb/fuse. Fixed that. The fuse for the fan doesn't even have connectors, the fuse is fine, but there doesn't seem to be any connector there for the fuse to connect to. My cigarette lighter doesn't seem to work, which could explain why my CD player doesn't save where it was at on the CD. The little lights on the bottom of the doors that usually come on when you open the doors, don't seem to come on. Even after replacing the bulbs. I don't know if I just have a broken connection or what. Is there a fuse for those bulbs as well?

As for the fuel sending unit, I'm gonna have to pull that and clean it. That sounds like it could be the reason why my talking lady is always telling me my fuel level is low.