I'm looking to upgrade the brakes on our Lemons racer '80 280zx. I've read a few posts regarding the brake calipers from an early '80's 4WD Toyota truck, but most were around various test fits that folks were doing. Is there a definitive post on whether these calipers work, and if so, what needs to be done to make them work well? Do they have more braking force than the stock calipers, or do they just offer better pad selection? (I'd like to be able to run Hawk HPS or something similar) Also curious if there is a good mating rear caliper set-up so I don't have to worry about adding a proportioning valve or something to even out the overly aggressive "new" front set-up. Thanks in advance.

 

Click: https://www.zdriver.com/forums/280zx...alipers-31236/

 

Got it, thanks. Yes, that's one of the threads I read and it doesnt' seem definitive to me unless I'm mis-reading it. It's frutstrating that there are so few good options (any really.) Somehow I need to increase the braking power on this thing, but without bigger rotors (ideally matched front and rear) that's going to be pretty tough. Wonder if I could use different struts altogether to give me more options? There's gotta be a way to pull this off without buying one of the super expensive kits.

 

Lots of definitive info...

The final answer: break open your wallet, or build your own.

 

Yeah, I guess that's about what I was getting at, but there's no way I can justify $1500 for brakes on a $500 car if you know what I mean. Would seem like the Toyota calipers might be an option, but did you ever find a way to get a bigger rotor that fits with them?

 

Get SS brake lines, the highest dry boiling point brake fluid you can afford and change as required, Porterfield pads and air ducting to the rotors. That's the best racing bang for your $$.

I wonder if anyone has tried to band aid an inadequate brake system with a brake fluid cooler?

 

Z31 rotors are about an inch bigger in diameter. So if you can get a bracket to sit the caliper in the right spot, it would work. But don't forget that by doing so, you have indeed thrown off the brake bias... ever driven a front brake heavy car? Feels like you're going to nose dive right into the pavement.

Nos spray the lines...

 

... and I guess the issue with brake fluid is that it's not circulated....

Inline Brake Cooler might be worth checking

http://slavensracing.com/products/br...r-ktm-husaberg

http://www.fourproducts.com/FSBC.htm

... and this might help cause circulation... http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinde...temno=260-3501

 

Thanks for the replies guys. I've spent a few hours this evening reading various posts on this subject both here and on HybridZ, and it seems like my best option is going to be just making sure my stock system is well set-up and getting really good pads like Porterfiled R4 (we are going through a set of pads per race though, so it will get spendy fast.)
One more question: I've got the 15/16 master cylinder and having a really hard time finding a spare one. Is there a reason I couldn't switch over to the later style MC and booster from the 81-83 model since those parts are more readily available? What exactly changed in those years and is one set-up better than another?

 

Aren't all the S130 masters 15/16?