snwbrderphat540

ooo he is funny ^^^^ lol

no i just wouldnt trust any Z unless it was a 350 or a Z32... and even for the Z32 id be just a little hesitant.

007max

Dude, I drove my ZX from Phoenix, to Orlando, to Virginia Beach, and then to Albany within a week and had 0 issues. If i could afford to miss that much school, or had the $$, I would have no hesitation about driving to MSA from here.

thxone

Those who tend to be unsure of their cars tend to be those who lack the knowledge to work on their cars or lack confidence in their own abilities. Time and money would be the only thing stopping me from driving cross country in my ZX....that and a wheel falling off would suck a bit in the middle of the trip.

snwbrderphat540

nooo... more like, with custom wiring an l28 converted to turbo motor in a 33 year old car that will have been running for less than a month doesnt seem worth the chance of driving thousands of miles and have soemthing fail on my out in like ****in whyoming or some ****. for all the stuff that i have had to do my self i expect one or two things to go wrong as with any car that you convert, adn the likelyhood of it happenening withing hte first month or two is high. soo with my car not running in march soon to be april, if i got it to run with in the next few weeks, its not leaving a 30 mile radius till summer time once it has proven to be reliable....

duckyz

Guys....You're making this a whole lot more difficult than it needs to be. All I did (about 13 years ago) is take a 6x9 template and a sharpie to mark out where to make the cuts for the stock location speakers behind the seats. Took a set of tin snips and made the cut. The shop where I got the stereo from had a ZX dash insert for $2.50. Wired a crossover (set at about 800Hz) so the stock dash speakers wouldn't take a beating from the low end. 250x4 watt JVC cassette deck (this was 13 years ago!) is all that's running.

thxone

Got my stereo stuff in my zx

dustin_ra

Out of curriosity how bad will the rear window louver shake rattle and vibrate with some good sound being pushed through the car? Whats the reason for the left front speaker being in the center? Is it because the Japan versions are R/H drive?

Heat Rave R

It's simple bad planning is all; they forgot to leave themselves enough room for speakers when designing the interior and had no place else to put it but there. The power windows are too close to the inner door frame for the speakers to be put in the doors. And they couldn't put it on the left side of the dash because of the gauge cluster.

Bleach

...in a RHD dash, the left speaker is far left. The right speaker is centered. hehe... think about it.

Nice big sound system there! Is that the Nismo Tuned speaker box? ...get some stickers

thxone

Lets put it this way...when I am outside of the car and the stereo is up really loud, it sounds annoying as hell, they bounce alot and rattle like there is no tomorrow. I will say this though, the bass is tight and quick in the hatch of a ZX. Very snappy with these subs and that MTX amp....cant wait till Friday..then I jump from 200 total watts to 1200 total watts of amplifier power driving 4 speakers. Ouch!

P.S. The hatch itself will move a 1/4" or more up and down itself when I play my Quad Maximus CD.

thxone

Actually Bleach, it is a JDM Nismo Tune Subwoofer Enclosure

thxone

Well, The Beast is finally home. Here is a pic of my 1,000 watt class D mono sub woofer amplifier. Yes, it is a Lightning Audio, but don't let that fool you. The Storm model was their top of the line when this was made and they pound to no end...and I mean POUND!!! Here you can see it next to my 200 watt MTX (also a beast). Those are 6 1/2" speakers it is sitting on if that gives you an idea of its size...and it is heavy as hell!

NismoPick

That's a lot of equipment just waiting to be seen through your huge hatch glass window & robbed in 5.2 seconds. Have you thought about a pull back hatch cover to hide that stuff?

thxone

Well there is really no stopping a thief if they really want your stuff...but I have counter measures to make them work for my stuff

snwbrderphat540

i had full on tints in my z32 to hide my system. plus i live in a pretty nice town. but i had me a 1400 watt mono class D audiobahn amp running one 12" matching sub, in a custom vented box, i was able to shake my friends gutters when in his drive way, a good 14 foot linear distance andyou could hear the gutters literally moving, yes teh gutters moved. i really need to get that system back. lent it to my buddy..... BAD MOVE

thxone

My stereo is all together now, here is a shot of it near completion.

thxone

Well one full day with the new amp and I am still tweaking the settings....I have done a couple of high volume runs and it can get painful. These old ten's don't stand a chance of lasting another month

I have been pricing new ten inch subs and so far have looked at different ohm ratings and a few different brands, JL, Audiobahn, JBL and so forth. Right now I am at a 4 ohm load with two 8 ohm subs and the amps manual states 400watts rms with this setup. If I drop the load to 2 ohms the manual says 700 watts, 1 ohm 1,000 watts. It is not recommended for loads under 1 ohm.

I think I will go with single voice coil 4 ohm subs so that the amp will see the 2 ohm load. The amps manual states that it is internally bridged. I think this makes for much easier wiring of the subs for sure. Uuuuggg but then there is matching the power range of the subs to the amps output power, the material of the woofer cones (paper or plastic? ), surround material, terminal connection type, woofer basket material (rolled steel, cast aluminum...) is the voice coil vented? Is the spider a flat type or progressive roll, are the speaker leads sewn into the spider or not? There are so many factors when choosing a quality sub that you want to last a long time and perform exceptionally.

entropy31

you want some amazing 10s, look into the JL 10w3v2's. i personally preffer the 10w0's though, just because i like my music IN the car, not down the block.

thxone

Yeah E, I have been checking out the JL's the most...the W3V2's are dual voice coil subs...I think I may go with the newer W3V3's as they are single coil subs but so far they offer everything I am looking for. 600 watt power handling for the pair and the tech side of things is pretty cool too.

thxone

Well I sold my little MTX 2 channel amp and my 1,000 watt Lightning audio amp today and purchased a Kenwood KAC-7202 2 channel amp and will be getting the matching sub amp Friday, the KAC-9201D. Man what a difference this 7202 has mad on the subs...and it's only on them temporarily until I get the 9201D. Here are a pair of pics.

WildmaN

I have decided to use a head unit, and another 12 disc changer, in my '82 slicktop. I already got another changer, and now I need to know what all is required to run the whole thing. I can get a JVC auto reverse, with digital tuner, for $60. The model # is KS-F190, I believe, I will try to post a link to it. Okay anyway stereo experts, let me know all I need to hook this thing up to my Z. And thanks
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...1856&rd=1&rd=1
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...1154&rd=1&rd=1

thxone

Is that all you plan to run....the head unit and disc changer? If so, just get yourself about 50 feet of 14awg speaker wire(to re-wire all your speakers...it's for the best and the wire will be new)...(Walmart electronics section-not the car audio section, it is cheaper) Depending on how the changer hooks up I would say about 16 foot of good quality RCA patch cables or whatever the changer needs to get a signal from the head unit.

If you are planing on running an amp, well then you want an amp wiring kit...just match it's power ratings to that of your amp...running subs? Get some 12awg speaker wire to connect them to the amp.

The thing you need most is patience and some free time if you want it to look good and be wired properly. Use the same size wire on the amp for the power and ground (same AWG) but keep the ground short, 18" or less is better than 18" or more. Yes....SIZE DOES MATTER as much as I hate to admit it. That should do it.

thxone

Hey WildMan....you know they make MP3/CD head units now....would be a whole lot easier and can hold more music on one disc than all the disc in the changer.....unless it's an MP3 changer of course.

http://cgi.ebay.com/JVC-KD-G320-CD-M...QQcmdZViewItem

lww

Get a head unit with an AUX input and then plug-in your iPod, Creative Zen, Microsoft Zune, <insert MP3 player here>...

Take your whole library with you in the palm of your hand and never change another CD in your life...

Every car I drive, now has a head unit with an AUX input. I haven't used the CD player in years.

snwbrderphat540

ditto ^^^^ thats what i did but used my PSP.... played GTA on it to, sounded hella sick on the subs and such in the Z32.