Awww [poopy]
#1
Awww [poopy]
ok i have been havin problems. i thought my altornator was dead, or well dying, and a strange sound was coming from my engine. well. we trouble shooted and when i used anuything electrical, such as headlights heater or something mayjor like that it squeeled. so that should pin point to the altornator, bough a new altornator, i was out tearing off powersteering, bla bla bla belts and all that to get to the altornator, .. well, i checked the altornator, and it spun just fine. so i looked at the pully coming from the crank. and the pully closest to the block that runs the fan and altornator is lose and not connected anymore,..... wat do i do? do i have to replace the whole assembly or just that pully or can i re attach it some how? leme know guys. thanks
Last edited by Bleach; 10-04-2005 at 03:06 PM.
#5
Here are some sugestions:
1) Auto Shop
2) Chiltons
3) Basic Hand Tools and knowledge of how to use them
4) Professional Mechanic (aka Automotive Technician or Wrench Turner)
5) Move to TX (could retire early with more customers like you)
just kidding. take a picture and post it so everyone can see what it looks like. can be more helpful that way and get fewer smart comments.
1) Auto Shop
2) Chiltons
3) Basic Hand Tools and knowledge of how to use them
4) Professional Mechanic (aka Automotive Technician or Wrench Turner)
5) Move to TX (could retire early with more customers like you)
just kidding. take a picture and post it so everyone can see what it looks like. can be more helpful that way and get fewer smart comments.
#6
The main crank pully? What is it with those things breaking anyway?
The little pin that keeps that pully from spinning might have broken apart inside. Remove the main bolt off the end of the crank and inspect the pully for missing pieces and cracks. Look to see you have the little half circle pin that slips in the notch of the crank.
Replace whatever is broken.
That should do it.
The little pin that keeps that pully from spinning might have broken apart inside. Remove the main bolt off the end of the crank and inspect the pully for missing pieces and cracks. Look to see you have the little half circle pin that slips in the notch of the crank.
Replace whatever is broken.
That should do it.
#8
Nope. I never removed the power steering when I pulled my alternators.
I used to go through them like candy. Got so good, I could leave the car on the wheels, unbolt the alternator and wiggle it out the side between the block and the inner fender without having to move or remove anything else or get under the car.
I used to go through them like candy. Got so good, I could leave the car on the wheels, unbolt the alternator and wiggle it out the side between the block and the inner fender without having to move or remove anything else or get under the car.
#10
I think he meant he had to take off the PS belt. It's forward of the Alt. belt and so would need to be removed before the Alt belt could be replaced. I'm still real proud of you guys though for being able to change an alternator so fast
#11
Originally Posted by ThermalWake
so i looked at the pully coming from the crank. and the pully closest to the block that runs the fan and altornator is lose and not connected anymore,..... wat do i do? do i have to replace the whole assembly or just that pully or can i re attach it some how? leme know guys. thanks
OK frist off... is it a three belt pully or a two belt pully ???? from what i have seen looking at this three belt pully i have here ......the outer ring unbolts and the two inner rings are made as one piece... the two belt pully style is a one peice part none of the belt runners will come apart on a two belt pully......
.both styles of pullys should not come apart where the alt and air belts run ...
Only the PS belt runner should unbolt from the outter ring of the three belt pully....
if the inner ring has come free as you say then i think you will need to find a new {used} pully...... not a fun task i should have just waited for rod
i have found the best way to work on any of the front parts of a zx motor IS.....
TO REMOVE THE Radiator ..
.you get the best views this way and you can make sure your front cover isn't leaking along with your water pump .... its also the best way to get to your crank pully
52 MINS J ....and i pulled PS unit next time i try it IWW'S
way
Last edited by 81 Black L28E; 10-04-2005 at 10:55 PM.
#13
OK I JUST WENT out and looked at the pullys i have here ....if your inner ring is free and wiggleing around then it has come free of the houseing and you need to replace it .....the two inner rings on the three belt pully are attched to the whole unit as one peice ....do as bleach said remove the whole pully by unbolting the large bolt at the front of the pully....you will need a 1 1/16 socket and 1/2 drive wrench ...breaking that bolt free isnt fun ...use the belt to hold the pully into place or the motor will just spin and the blot will never come free ...if this wont work take a small pipe or
breaker bar ...hook the wrench though the end of the pipe make sure the pipe hits the frame rail ...once its all locked into place ..turn the key .
it will pop the bolt free ..just becareful ...
and yes J you can remove the pully with out taking the OUT Radiator ...
i did it today ....but putting it back on with out
removeing the Radiator is risky ....if you dont lock that bolt down really well...
then you risk it coming free again and haveing to do it all over in a week is no fun ....
breaker bar ...hook the wrench though the end of the pipe make sure the pipe hits the frame rail ...once its all locked into place ..turn the key .
it will pop the bolt free ..just becareful ...
and yes J you can remove the pully with out taking the OUT Radiator ...
i did it today ....but putting it back on with out
removeing the Radiator is risky ....if you dont lock that bolt down really well...
then you risk it coming free again and haveing to do it all over in a week is no fun ....
Last edited by 81 Black L28E; 10-04-2005 at 11:26 PM.
#14
Or rather than locking the bar against the frame rail, if you've got it long enough, just have the breaker bar pushed so it will just be grounded into the cement or whatever surface you're working over. That way you don't have to worry about using the car as the hold for the wrench. Black if you can get the bolt and pulley off with the radiator in, why would it be any harder tightening it back up with the radiator in?
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