The Bitter End
#109
engine break in is 1000 miles i believe and its no red line, non synthetic oils, use a fram filter actually they are good for break in because of how well they catch crap (only reason they suck is cause in the older engines they catch **** so well they start to clog up from the crap old engines can pass and start to starve the engine of oil) and no full throttle and i doubt its 3500 max rpm probably more like 4-5k
but this isn't like a brand new motor last i checked. just a rebuilt head a new rod and crank and bearings. no big deal.
but this isn't like a brand new motor last i checked. just a rebuilt head a new rod and crank and bearings. no big deal.
#111
Indeed... opinions vary on the break in, but the basics are to go easy the first 500-1000 miles, use conventional (non-synthetic) oil, and vary the RPMs. I got a lot of road to hit.
I didn't find the crush washers... I'm going without for the moment (RTV'd the inside edge of the oil cooler hook ups).
The motor runs a lot more smoothly & doesn't spit out smoke / carbon. The rings were hurting from the orig rebuild (I think the Nissan mechanic didn't do the rings properly). So I'm happy w/ the end results.
I didn't find the crush washers... I'm going without for the moment (RTV'd the inside edge of the oil cooler hook ups).
The motor runs a lot more smoothly & doesn't spit out smoke / carbon. The rings were hurting from the orig rebuild (I think the Nissan mechanic didn't do the rings properly). So I'm happy w/ the end results.
#112
sweet, when that break in is done, get that fancy vid cam out and show us!!! i hated my break in period, you can feel that it wants to go, and the right foot starts going down, but brain says no. fram are only junk because they have cardboard end caps inside, take apart a penzoil, or purilator, they use thin metal, less likely to blow.
#116
w00t! FINALLY... after a long long wait, I was able to take my Z out for a 60 mile cruise today. I drove it like a grandma, but that's okay! At about 50mph and again at 70mph it has a funky whine due to the solid diff mount, and my freaking oil temp gauge is still whack. Oh how I've missed my Z.
#124
I'm REALLY thinking about selling my Z now.
I cannot freaking figure out the hesitation issue. It's just on cold start up & for the first few minutes, then rough idle. I've got the Z31T ecu so I did the diagnostic test & keep getting two codes:
21: Ignition signal to primary coil is not entered more than 10 times.
I have checked every wire for current & ohms. Everything checks. I removed my Mallory ignition & went back to stock coil & ignitor... no change. The only other thing I can think of is the CAS which I will swap this weekend.
23: The ON-OFF signal from idle switch is not entered after ignition is turned to ON.
I checked, double checked, triple checked the wiring to the TPS, all checks out. Reset the TPS... no change. Saw this video on youtube ( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LmgYPuJkUuY ) so I pulled apart & cleaned the TPS... no change!!!
WTF!!!!11!!11ELEVEN!!!1ONE!!!111!
I cannot freaking figure out the hesitation issue. It's just on cold start up & for the first few minutes, then rough idle. I've got the Z31T ecu so I did the diagnostic test & keep getting two codes:
21: Ignition signal to primary coil is not entered more than 10 times.
I have checked every wire for current & ohms. Everything checks. I removed my Mallory ignition & went back to stock coil & ignitor... no change. The only other thing I can think of is the CAS which I will swap this weekend.
23: The ON-OFF signal from idle switch is not entered after ignition is turned to ON.
I checked, double checked, triple checked the wiring to the TPS, all checks out. Reset the TPS... no change. Saw this video on youtube ( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LmgYPuJkUuY ) so I pulled apart & cleaned the TPS... no change!!!
WTF!!!!11!!11ELEVEN!!!1ONE!!!111!
Last edited by NismoPick; 07-17-2009 at 08:43 AM.