The Bitter End
#127
No egr... just a block off plate. PCV is brand new (well... 400 miles new). Dizzy has no shaft play, but maybe the CAS is going out. I have a spare dizzy for my other turbo swap so I'll swap that in as well as a spare Z31 CAS. Other than that I'm at a loss.
I've even installed the fuel temp sensor & quadruple checked the ecu wiring @ the plugs.
BlueKitsune... I don't think you're ready for the asking price.
I've even installed the fuel temp sensor & quadruple checked the ecu wiring @ the plugs.
BlueKitsune... I don't think you're ready for the asking price.
#128
#129
Do you have a spare ecu? Double check to make sure yours isn't going bad. Is the idle rough even when warm? What is your vacuum reading? Where does your idle sort of sit at? I get idle issues if I idle my Z under 750rpm. It seems happiest at 800.
#131
Idle is really rough when cold, mellows when warm. I know my air regulator works fine because after the hard start, it idles @ 1100rpm, then drops to about 700. The huge issue is jumping on the throttle when cold, it drops way lean and backfires out the intake.
#133
Hehe I wondered about that. Mine was all fubar when I got it, jerk had the acceleration throttle enrichment switch stuck on, and screwed up the AFM to fix it. So, because this engine's coming out anyway I wasn't going to go buy an afm, so I've been just sorta dialing this one in some. Got it good enough, passes emissions, but it's a little balky cold. Hasn't really backfired, but I don't jump on it hard cold either.
Nice to know I'm probably not all that far off.
Nice to know I'm probably not all that far off.
#135
Exactly. That's why it sucks that your ECU is doing this. The Z31 was supposed to be an upgrade and get rid of these lower rpm throttle problems.
I just live with it. Drive gentle while its cold and don't expect any good power under 3k rpm. I think at 3200 the 280 ECU goes into open loop. Thats actually when it starts to run better at WOT what a joke! I can't wait for the Z31 upgrade. As long as it runs good when warm I think I'll be happy. I've got my truck to drive during the worst couple winter months.
I just live with it. Drive gentle while its cold and don't expect any good power under 3k rpm. I think at 3200 the 280 ECU goes into open loop. Thats actually when it starts to run better at WOT what a joke! I can't wait for the Z31 upgrade. As long as it runs good when warm I think I'll be happy. I've got my truck to drive during the worst couple winter months.
#136
Exactly. That's why it sucks that your ECU is doing this. The Z31 was supposed to be an upgrade and get rid of these lower rpm throttle problems.
I just live with it. Drive gentle while its cold and don't expect any good power under 3k rpm. I think at 3200 the 280 ECU goes into open loop. Thats actually when it starts to run better at WOT what a joke! I can't wait for the Z31 upgrade. As long as it runs good when warm I think I'll be happy. I've got my truck to drive during the worst couple winter months.
I just live with it. Drive gentle while its cold and don't expect any good power under 3k rpm. I think at 3200 the 280 ECU goes into open loop. Thats actually when it starts to run better at WOT what a joke! I can't wait for the Z31 upgrade. As long as it runs good when warm I think I'll be happy. I've got my truck to drive during the worst couple winter months.
Most of those old barn door blowing in the wind systems I've dealt with could be made to do SOMETHING right, but could NEVER be made to do EVERYTHING right.
Personally, I can't wait for the EEC IV upgrade.
#137
Man, that is so funny...I was just gonna ask you guys about the low idle problem in cold starts...mine just started doing that. I had the AFM rebuild and was working fine for a about a month or two.
This is my weekend car so I only start on the weekend and sometimes once on the weekday, the car does not even warms up and the idle starts shaking but once the car is warm it is just perfect. I guess the s130 people have to just live with this if we want if all stock.
This is my weekend car so I only start on the weekend and sometimes once on the weekday, the car does not even warms up and the idle starts shaking but once the car is warm it is just perfect. I guess the s130 people have to just live with this if we want if all stock.
#138
Man, that is so funny...I was just gonna ask you guys about the low idle problem in cold starts...mine just started doing that. I had the AFM rebuild and was working fine for a about a month or two.
This is my weekend car so I only start on the weekend and sometimes once on the weekday, the car does not even warms up and the idle starts shaking but once the car is warm it is just perfect. I guess the s130 people have to just live with this if we want if all stock.
This is my weekend car so I only start on the weekend and sometimes once on the weekday, the car does not even warms up and the idle starts shaking but once the car is warm it is just perfect. I guess the s130 people have to just live with this if we want if all stock.
#141
Well, we're talking about backfiring and being balky cold, YOUR talking about a failure to elevate idle speed cold.(which mine has too, could care less, it keeps runnin) Most likely all your problem is the cold idle air regulator, they have a tendency to get clogged up and fail. They also cost like 75$, so many(like me, and you so far) don't replace them.
#142
< double-you-tee-eff >
I found at least part of the problem... the same damn lowest ecu plug is still having connection issues. I can wiggle the ground wires (which I had re-soldered when I did my Z31T ecu swap) and the car would almost die. I think it's the actual pins inside the plug. So... off to the Pick n Pull tomorrow to cut some Z31 ecu plugs. Good thing I have the day off.
I found at least part of the problem... the same damn lowest ecu plug is still having connection issues. I can wiggle the ground wires (which I had re-soldered when I did my Z31T ecu swap) and the car would almost die. I think it's the actual pins inside the plug. So... off to the Pick n Pull tomorrow to cut some Z31 ecu plugs. Good thing I have the day off.
#144
< double-you-tee-eff >
I found at least part of the problem... the same damn lowest ecu plug is still having connection issues. I can wiggle the ground wires (which I had re-soldered when I did my Z31T ecu swap) and the car would almost die. I think it's the actual pins inside the plug. So... off to the Pick n Pull tomorrow to cut some Z31 ecu plugs. Good thing I have the day off.
I found at least part of the problem... the same damn lowest ecu plug is still having connection issues. I can wiggle the ground wires (which I had re-soldered when I did my Z31T ecu swap) and the car would almost die. I think it's the actual pins inside the plug. So... off to the Pick n Pull tomorrow to cut some Z31 ecu plugs. Good thing I have the day off.
#146
Hum... what bike is it again?
Today I swapped the lowest ecu connector w/ one from an 87 Z31. The ground pins were toast, and looking at the schematic, those are the grounds for most of the sensors. Well, that fixed the rough idle (idles like a freaking champ), but it's still got the hard start, and the same ecu codes are being displayed.
Today I swapped the lowest ecu connector w/ one from an 87 Z31. The ground pins were toast, and looking at the schematic, those are the grounds for most of the sensors. Well, that fixed the rough idle (idles like a freaking champ), but it's still got the hard start, and the same ecu codes are being displayed.
#149
You probably know this, but some of those computers have long memory's, and it's not impossible that what your reading is codes from before your ground fix.
#150
That's what I was thinking too, but I google'd it and I didn't see anything about resetting the ECU trouble codes so I didn't ask... Assuming the negative on the battery terminal was pulled before repair (and I'm sure he did that) that would should cleared out the ECU codes...