Brake Calipers...
#1
Brake Calipers...
Ok, I finally found my receipt for my calipers, and need to change out the left rear. Do you guys think I need to bleed both rears, or could I get away with ust bleeding the one? I don't think I'll lose that much fluid, but would probably be better off just going ahead and bleeding both, right??
Thought??
Thanks
Thought??
Thanks
#4
Bleed both. I would actually bleed all four if it were me. Just because...
After all the little gizmos and tricks I've seen come through the shops over the last 17 years, there is still no better way to get a good firm pedal than to "Gravity bleed" the system. Of course, that is a lot easier to do with the entire car elevated and something to catch all the fluid. Like I said though... at least bleed both rears.
Rod.
After all the little gizmos and tricks I've seen come through the shops over the last 17 years, there is still no better way to get a good firm pedal than to "Gravity bleed" the system. Of course, that is a lot easier to do with the entire car elevated and something to catch all the fluid. Like I said though... at least bleed both rears.
Rod.
#6
Gravity bleeding is a lot easier on the system, especially the BMC then the alternatives. I still recommend a good pressure assisted bleed whenever somethings disconnected top end or a BMC runs dry though.
#7
If you really want a nice firm pedal, and you also want to reduce some of the high temperature brake fade, Get yourself a couple pints of DOT4+ or DOT5 fluid and gravity bleed the system using the new fluid to top off the old as it runs out of the lines. The upgrade to the better fluid is noticeable. Also, if you still have the original rubber brake lines on your car, upgrade them to steel braided or even just new rubber ones. The difference is again very noticeable in pedal feel and feedback. Lastly, if you're running metalic or semi-metalic pads because someone told you they were better... DON'T. The only benefit to the metalic is longevity. Put the OEM organic pads in. Who cares if they only last 75% as long as metalic when they stop way better and are far less harsh on the rotors? Plus, these car's aren't exactly hard on brake material anyways. The organic pads in a 5 speed will probably still last 50-60K+
Rod.
Rod.
Last edited by RodMoyes; 11-09-2005 at 06:04 PM.
#9
You're a Crazy SOB D
It's a good idea with gravity bleeding to put a short length of tubing over the bleeder too I'm about ready to overhaul my entire brake system in the next few months. My lines are just about rotted through and everything else looks like it's the original including the rotors they're so worn down. And I can look at them and tell they've been on there a while by the size of the lip around the pad area. And another thing too is DO NOT LET ANYONE sucker you into buying ceramic or carbon pads either. WASTE OF MONEY unless you're car is a full time race car. These pads need to see a lot of heat to work efficiently and will actually cause worse braking in a street car that never see's the brake temps of a track car. It can get to the point of dangerous when you try to make a cold stop from a high speed.
It's a good idea with gravity bleeding to put a short length of tubing over the bleeder too I'm about ready to overhaul my entire brake system in the next few months. My lines are just about rotted through and everything else looks like it's the original including the rotors they're so worn down. And I can look at them and tell they've been on there a while by the size of the lip around the pad area. And another thing too is DO NOT LET ANYONE sucker you into buying ceramic or carbon pads either. WASTE OF MONEY unless you're car is a full time race car. These pads need to see a lot of heat to work efficiently and will actually cause worse braking in a street car that never see's the brake temps of a track car. It can get to the point of dangerous when you try to make a cold stop from a high speed.
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