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broke water pump bolt nightmare

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Old 02-04-2013 | 12:19 PM
  #1  
Pipsqueak's Avatar
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From: Central Arkansas
broke water pump bolt nightmare

Im trying to replace my water pump on my 80 na.
while removing the pump, one of the long bolts snapped off.
The bolt is snapped off so far in the hole that I am going to have to remove the front cover to get to it.

From what I have read this is going to be a nightmare.
It looks like I need to remove the dissy, oil pump and the valve cover just to remove the front cover. is this correct?
Old 02-04-2013 | 12:31 PM
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icice9's Avatar
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From: Hayward Ca
pretty much! the long bolts go through the timing chain cover and into the block.. and youll have to remove the timing chain cover to have access to the broken bolt.. just hope theres still some of the old bolt sticking out so you can grab it with a vise grip and remove it that way.. or else youll have to drill the old bolt out and re tap it or heli coil it..
Old 02-04-2013 | 12:33 PM
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NismoPick's Avatar
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Wow! Did you accidentally tighten it instead of loosen? Those long bolts are 12mm heads and should only be torqued to ~30ft/lbs... Just trying to figure out how it broke...

Anyway, yes, you will need to remove the dizzy & drop the oil pump. You will also need to loosen the oil pan as it's a VERY tight squeeze trying to get the cover back on with the head already in place. If you don't loosen the oil pan, the oil pan gasket will just push back as you push the cover in place. I've been there, done that.

Check out the FSM... it's got plenty of details on this. Also, use a square tapered extractor for the bolt, not the reverse helical kind (they expand the bolt and actually make it harder to get out).
Old 02-04-2013 | 01:17 PM
  #4  
Duck Ryder's Avatar
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From: Beaverton, Or
Originally Posted by NismoPick
Also, use a square tapered extractor for the bolt, not the reverse helical kind (they expand the bolt and actually make it harder to get out).
Ditto on that. I don't know what type of bolt used, but if the regular metal drill bits don't dig into the bolt relatively quickly, stop, you'll just be wasting your time. Go to grainger and get a carbide drill bit. You won't find carbide drill bits at Homedepot/lowes or ACE.
Old 02-04-2013 | 01:19 PM
  #5  
Pipsqueak's Avatar
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From: Central Arkansas
Originally Posted by icice9
pretty much! the long bolts go through the timing chain cover and into the block.. and youll have to remove the timing chain cover to have access to the broken bolt.. just hope theres still some of the old bolt sticking out so you can grab it with a vise grip and remove it that way.. or else youll have to drill the old bolt out and re tap it or heli coil it..
I was told about a left had drill set that works better at removing bolts if you have to drill them out.

When i get down to the bolt I give them a try.
Old 02-04-2013 | 01:20 PM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by NismoPick
Wow! Did you accidentally tighten it instead of loosen? Those long bolts are 12mm heads and should only be torqued to ~30ft/lbs... Just trying to figure out how it broke...
the point it was broke at was as rusted as the rest of the bolt. Looks like it had been hanging on with few threads for a while.
Old 02-04-2013 | 08:47 PM
  #7  
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From: Blacksburg, VA
Originally Posted by Pipsqueak
the point it was broke at was as rusted as the rest of the bolt. Looks like it had been hanging on with few threads for a while.
Yep most of mine were heavly rusted when I removed my pump and cover, decided to replace all with new ones.

If you are lucky to have enough of a stub left sticking out where you can weld a nut on the end.

If you have to drill, start with small bits and work your way up. It is easy for even a small drill tip to "walk" and get off center especially when hand drilling. Unless you have an angle drill, I am thinking that you may have to pull the rad inorder to get enough space...

Hit the bolt with PB Blaster an wait a hour or so to penetrate, will make it a lot easier to get out.

Good Luck
Old 02-09-2013 | 12:54 PM
  #8  
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Fun Fun

Originally Posted by Genewiz
It is easy for even a small drill tip to "walk" and get off center especially when hand drilling.
I have been rebuilding the motor in my 82 and I had one of the center cap bolts (crankshaft) break and an oil pan bolt break right next to the front cover. My tip is the same that these guys gave me... Take your time and do it right. The center cap bolt came out like a champ but, the oil pan bolt has been a nightmare. I tried to use a standard bit, like a dumass, and imagine that, it bent the bit and I ended up drilling at an angle which left part of the bolt intact and I didn't realize it until it was too late.

Needless to say, I bought the carbide bit and now have to up the size of the bolt to a 10mm. Just waiting for some warmer weather.
Old 02-13-2013 | 08:42 AM
  #9  
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From: Central Arkansas
Time (and rust) is not my friend

Just a update. had to drill out the bolt and use a helicoil. that old one was not moving for anything.

very thing was going ok, but when it came to putting it all back together, The head gasket is now a issues.

has anyone tried to replace just the square part of the head gasket? I dont want to have to pull anything else off the car for the one stupid bolt.
Old 02-13-2013 | 09:40 AM
  #10  
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From: louisiana
square part of the head gasket? you talking about the part that goes around the timing chain? Whats the issue? Some pictures would be great to use. But if your headgasket is bad or didnt seat properly then im afraid a replace is in order. No need to beat around the bush. Just do it properly so you dont have to go back and fix it again.
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