Hi guys, I hope this helps someone.

Anyone done this themselves?

I did a lot of searching of other sites and expanded some on their technique. Here is what I did and it works beautifully.

Use Dremel and cutoff wheel to cut almost all the way through swedge at base of fuel line. Not too much, don't want to damage housing.

I then used a flathead screwdriver to break the remaining metal circle.

Fuel line came right off. A couple needed vise grips to twist line.

I prepared a container with Seafoam, 2 cans, soaked injectors in solution a couple of days.

I got 9v [square] battery, connect to a spare fuel injector pigtail with alligator clips. Open and close pintle while submerged in Seafoam, gets the product in where it need to be.

Talked to tech support at Seafoam and he said you need to get the pintle open and air out for product to get in and work, thats where the battery comes in.

Took it one step further:
Backflushing the injector.
Using the battery to keep the pintle open, used Berrymans Carb spray, concentrated.

What I did was use the tube that comes with the can, and while injector was open, place the tube against the open injector and back flushed the injector, blowing the crud out of the screen.

Then I sprayed through fuel inlet on injector and observed spray pattern, blowing any remaining crud out the injector, away from the screen.

Turns out now I have a fine conical spray pattern.

Run some Deep Creep or WD-40 through the injector then immerse in solution of Seafoam using the battery to open and shut the injector until bubbles disappear, displacing the air inside the injector, inside now full of Seafoam for further treatment/cleaning.

You can use the battery to open the injector, use a pressurized lubricant in a can through the straw and observe the spray pattern.. pretty cool. pretty cheap. pretty good fix. Don't have to rig up a fuel pump etc..etc.

Use dvom to measure ohms should read 3 ohms. Use the battery to see and hear the pintle open and shut. Some are weak and some stronger opening and closing [injectors] With the batch I have soaking, I'll use what I feel are the best of the lot.

kenny..

 

When i did my fuel injectors i did almost the same thing but a little differant and mine came out to flow better then i ever expected. I toomk of the injectors used the dremel cut off tool to cut both sides just enought to pull off with vice grip. Then i used a small head computer size flat head driver and pryed out the old " fuel injector screens" then i read on a forum some time ago u can use 40 psi air take and improvise a cut off valve stem to a rubber hose loosey places onto the top of the fuel injector then fill the tube full of carb spray " make sure the seal is tight on the injector and the valve stem " then with the " PINTAL CAP OFF " the injector slowly push down on the table with a rag or a towel cloth on it its gonna get nasty and black. After about 2 or 3 trys the injectors came out to a better pray pattern than i even dreamed of i would say better than new ! In fact i have had them on my 1982 280zxt for over 25,000 miles now and not a problem at all. " REMEBER THESE ARE STOCK OLD IN JECTORS off a 1984 300zx turbo.

 

I used jfairladyz's method. When I pulled the rail I just left all the injectors on the rail, I had a spare fuel pump from my other Z so I just got a little container of fuel and injector cleaner, put a hose from that to the pump, then had a hose run from pump to fuel filter, to the rail. Plugged off the return line, and used a spare injector clip, and used the car battery and just alternated running the solution through each injector, cleaned them out and straightened up the spray. The fuel filter was to help prevent any crud from getting back in.

 

wow this is great because i'll have the injectors out tomorrow. by the way does anyone recommend a good place to buy new injectors if i decide to go that route?

 

Remember to check your voltage as well as ohm's.. its the best way to tell if your coil is bad.
replace all your orings if you remove your injectors from the rail
and the only real way to get the best set of injectors is to flow test and make sure they are balanced
your cleaning method is great for servicing though, very impressive cheap way to do it
zstreet what size are u looking for

 

just the stock size for an 83 280zx turbo

 

my recommendation for injectors is rockauto.com and get the GB Manufacturing Remans. They come with O-rings, they're about $29 an injector with a $10 core so about $40 each. Not bad, and I've had no problems with them. As I told Ducky, I was just trying to save myself some money.

 

Captken, I wish to thank you for the good information regarding cleaning fuel injectors. I have a notebook which I put great information that one doesn't find in the manual (as there are always better ways/short-cuts to do things), and your information has made the "Book". I have 2 spair 280zx engins (we have 3 Z's, one never knows when you need an engine). I will try your method on a spair intake manafold (seperate from the 2 engines). Again thanks