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Clutch Pressure

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Old 10-18-2008 | 12:20 PM
  #1  
zstudent's Avatar
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From: San Diego
Clutch Pressure

So my buddy and I finally drove the z back down to sandiego so I can put the finish touches on her and make her road ready. However on the ride down the clutch refuse to engage. the only way we could get it to work was to continuosly pump it to build up some pressure. The friction point was very close to wear the clutch pedal bottom out. On the highway the drive was pretty decent, probably due to the lack of traffic thus lack of shifting but the second we got off the 163 all hell broke loose.

Any suggestions on what might be the problem. I am guessing that there may be a leak in the cluth line that is not producing even pressure, but my knowledge on this matter is very limited and I am making a blind assumption.
Old 10-18-2008 | 12:35 PM
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KasbeKZ's Avatar
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From: virginia
bad master or slave cylinder. look around both of them, and see which one is even the slightest bit wet. replace the wet one with a new one. rebuild kits may be available, but you need to have a good non-pitted cylinder to make the rebuild worth while, so you should take it apart and check on that before hand if you choose to attempt the rebuild.
Old 10-18-2008 | 01:00 PM
  #3  
WildmaN's Avatar
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From: Mesa, Az
I just had this problem less than 2 weeks ago. More than likely it will be your slave cylinder. Which is located on the transmission. Less than $20 at Autozone...and lifetime warranty. The slave is what gets the most use and abuse. And is the first likely to fail on you. I first replaced the clutch master. And then realized that wasn't the problem. Anyway I spent close to $50 for that one. With a lifetime warranty. Funny thing is...my original clutch master has over 215k on it. And it is still in good shape.

Anyway try replacing the slave cylinder. Bleed the system. And get back to us. Good luck to you man.
Old 10-18-2008 | 03:17 PM
  #4  
KingDatsun1's Avatar
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Originally Posted by KasbeKZ
bad master or slave cylinder. look around both of them, and see which one is even the slightest bit wet. replace the wet one with a new one. rebuild kits may be available, but you need to have a good non-pitted cylinder to make the rebuild worth while, so you should take it apart and check on that before hand if you choose to attempt the rebuild.
x2 had this exact problem with my Z, either buy a cylinder rebuild kit (seals and whatnot) or just get a whole new cylinder
Old 11-01-2008 | 10:40 PM
  #5  
zstudent's Avatar
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Well my buddy and I took at look at it and it seems like the slave is bad so I am going to replace that and I was like at the rubber hose which I think should also be replace but I was wondering if it would be better to go with the rubber hose or the stainless steel hose that MSA offers?
Old 11-01-2008 | 10:44 PM
  #6  
NismoPick's Avatar
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If you are going to be racing, or feel the need to burn some extra cash, go for the stainless steel one. A stock one will work fine for a daily driver.
Old 11-01-2008 | 10:51 PM
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I dont know about spending the extra cash considering the stainless steel are 19.99 and the rubber are 27.99 thats why I was wondering what the difference was or if it was worth it
Old 11-01-2008 | 10:54 PM
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From: Wild Wild West, UTAH!
Ah... well then go for it. I didn't check their site... just figured it would be pretty high priced. SS lines don't flex as much so you'd theoretically get better pedal response. I know it's somewhat noticeable on brakes, but one short line for the clutch prolly won't be much of a diff.
Old 11-02-2008 | 03:38 PM
  #9  
zstudent's Avatar
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I wasnt really looking for a race set up really looking for quality, and considering the fact the it was cheaper than the rubber hose I wasnt sure if it would be.
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