engine ticking noise
#51
What's your outside temp there in Ontario? I can't imagine it's above 60*F or 15*C. Vapor lock would likely only happen on a hot 100*+ summer day. The injectors are obviously going to be hot to the touch... the exhaust mani is right underneath it.
#53
hot start still problem. so far i havent had time to be checking what could be causing this problem,(rain), but so far the only time that i can duplicate the proble is when i drive back and forth to my parents house, about 100 miles of freeway. but the last time it happened i touched the ignitor and it was only warm not burning hot, (read from other thread) but when i touched the injectors they were hotter then ****. could this problem be when fuel turns to vapor in the fuel rail.(injector fan is not on)i got it to start once while it was stumbleing by giving it throttle. took about 30 secs. car runs fine before i turn it off for the first time.
This problem was not identifiable until the injectors started leaking into the engine bay. Once I saw the leaking injectors, replaced them all and the car has ran normal ever since. She is now my daily driver
The car sat for years because of this problem.....
At this point, because of the noise heard from the injectors, I vote that the problem is with the injectors, some or one is leaking, this is allowing the pressure to drop and the fuel to boil when the car is turned off. Its not a large leak, otherwise you would be having other problems while driving.
It is a pain to get to the injectors, you've got to disconnect a pully just to get to the fuel rail, and the fuel rail wraps around the front of the engine.
Here is a troubleshooting guide for fuel pressure issues:
1. Hook up a fuel pressure gauge after the fuel filter
2. Warm up the engine then shut off.
If the pressure drops to 0 psig, then you have a leak somewhere and continue with the next steps
3. Warm up the engine again, or if warm, turn the ignition on (dont start), let the pump return pressure back to the system.
4. Clamp the fuel line before the fuel filter and after the fuel pressure regulator.
If pressure drops, then you have leaky injectors.
If pressure stays, continue with next steps
5. Remove fuel line clamps Repeat step 3.
6. Clamp fuel line before fuel filter.
If pressure drops, then you have a leaking fuel pressure regulator.
If pressure stays, continue with next step.
7. Repeat step 5
8. Clamp off return fuel line after pressure regulator.
If pressure drops, then you have a bad check valve on your fuel pump.
If none of this works, I am sorry
For me, the pressure drop was almost instant and it dropped to 0 psig.
#54
ok thanks, i'll see if i can find someone with a fuel pressure gauge and run the test. if this is the problem then i'll wiat to after im done with school and will be able to afford a new infector set. thanks for the help guys, i'll let you know when i get the test done.
#55
I've NEVER noticed it in the 2 years I've had the car.
#56
what i did that seemed to really help was the seafoam in the gas tank. i put about 2/3 of it in the tank and the rest in the vacuum lines. i did this in two different tanks of gas with about 3/4 full.
#57
When I replaced my injectors, I unbolted the entire fuel rail except that one pulley bolt. It wasn't that bad, you just have to be careful to not bend the fuel rail when putting in the injector closest to the rad.
#61
#63
#64
i actually was reving it up to about 4-4.5k but for some reason all my camera would pick up that day was the low idle... i have though about remaking it but i dont feel like it...
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dankfrye@charte
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11-08-2011 07:59 PM
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