lts70

It turns out that my exhaust manifold has heat warped and has a leak. What do you guys think would be best, have the manifold plained down and reinstall or get a new header? I was looking at some nice ones at the Z-store website that were around $340 that where ceramic coated. I called a local machine shop and with out looking at it they were thinking $100 to $150. What do you guys think? Also would it be smart to get a manifold or header that would accept a turbo for possible upgrades in the future? Thanks for any advice or direction.

NismoPick

Do you have any loose or missing manifold bolts / studs? That's the usual cause of a manifold leak.

lts70

It looks like one of the bolts has snaped off...great. I have not had the best of luck with ez-outs in the past.

NismoPick

4 edged extractor... DO NOT (I REPEAT) DO NOT USE A HELICAL EXTRACTOR.

Use this:

JPerkins

x2. square extractors. and what was it u told me before nismo? Carbide spade bit?

BlueKitsune

Ok my question is "E320zx"???? What code is that for 280ZX?

NismoPick

Ah yes... the almighty carbide spade bits will cut through anything!!!

It's the 280zx from the future. You haven't seen it yet?

BlueKitsune

To be honest after the 280ZX I kinda lost my interest in the new Z cars. They dont really catch my attention that much

duowing

once you get it out, buy a set of higher grade studs from pallnet.

http://www.freewebs.com/pallnet/

lts70

It is a 280zx, I must have had a Benz on my mind. Where are you guys getting those spade bits. How do they work, what makes them so good? Thanks

NismoPick

I bought my carbide bits at Industrial Tool Supply ($15-$40 per bit). I've also seen some lately @ Lowes & Home Depot, but I don't know if they are the same quality.

Carbide is stronger than steel, so it will cut through steel... but it's also more brittle, so it will break if dropped or if you put sideways pressure on a carbide bit.

lts70

The bolt that is broken off is last one on the engine twards the driver end. I don't know how the heck I am going to get to it with out pulling a ton of crap off of the motor.

duowing

that's pretty much the only one that breaks. You have to remove the intake and exhaust manifold. It's kind of a pain, but once you know how to do it it's not too bad. Go check Shady's writeup on doing the intake/exhaust gasket.

280zx2by2

the front one (opposite to the one you see broken off) is probably broken off too... its covered up by the thermostat housing

User395

I have the same leak on my NA, I gotta wait til I have my Turbo up and running until I can fix (just in case it takes too long).

Good Luck!!

WildmaN

Been there and done that. It is not too terrible of a task. Just need patience, and make sure you get the extractor in straight. And directly in the center. I remember when I had the same exact broken stud on my cylinder head. Had a little help. And it wasn't too terrible. Also spray it real well with liquid wrench, or PB blaster. And let it sit at least overnight. Then tackle it, because it should be easier to extract after that. Good luck man, and take your time.

duowing

I'm going to say the stud under the thermostat housing is probably fine. It seems like only the last one ever seems to break.

280zx2by2

mine and a zx at my local J-yard both had this stud broken off... those 2 bolts hold the same amount of pressure and are in the same relative (all be it opposite) locations... there's no reason for you to think that the last one is more prone to breaking off than the first... that would be illogical

ellisdaddy917

lets say that neither bolt is prone to breaking off... your original statement was that the bolt under the thermostat housing is broken off too... what would make the front bolt break just because the back bolt is broke?

WildmaN

It really doesn't make sense. In my experience with these 280zx's. Which I own 4 of them. It has always been the bolt closest to the firewall. That is where the least air is. And where most of the heat is. Causing it to rust, because of the tight space. Thus being over the years, it will be prone to breaking off. If you try and take it out. To save yourself grief. When you know that it hasn't been touched in years. Is to spray it with the liquid wrench or PB blaster. Things I have learned working on my Z's.

duowing

They are similar yes, but at the same time the way it's mounted there is more of the block there, also more air flow so the heat is spread out more evenly. Towards the firewall section that bolt is more on it's own and kind of spread off away from the block. On turbo motors more heat and weight is on that side of the manifold as the turbo doesn't sit in the center. One other thing to consider and this has been noted that generally the areas around the number 1 cylinder run cooler and get warmer towards 6 due to the flow of coolant. As it's not quite as cooling as it's been warmed on it's way towards the back.

WildmaN

Exactly, thank you for explaining it better than I ever could. Couldn't have said it better.

ellisdaddy917

i understand the process of the coolant and the fact that obviously its hotter the closer you get to the firewall... but what i dont understand is why 280zx2by2 thinks that since the back bolt broke off the front one under the thermostat housing is broken off to...

duowing

Apparently he's just seen two cars where the front and back studs have broken off. It's pretty uncommon, so I'm thinking there were other factors involved.

WildmaN

Yeah, like sitting in a wrecking yard. Where every possible kind of weather. Can get to the cars. Because of no shelter, and out in the open. Thus, rust setting in. And slowly eating everything, until it returns to the ground. Over time of course.