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Exhaust leak at the manifold on 1982 E320zx

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Old 05-10-2009, 08:37 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by ellisdaddy917
i understand the process of the coolant and the fact that obviously its hotter the closer you get to the firewall... but what i dont understand is why 280zx2by2 thinks that since the back bolt broke off the front one under the thermostat housing is broken off to...
you do also understand that the front bolt sits right below the oh so hot thermostat housing don't you?
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Old 05-10-2009, 08:42 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by ellisdaddy917
lets say that neither bolt is prone to breaking off... your original statement was that the bolt under the thermostat housing is broken off too... what would make the front bolt break just because the back bolt is broke?
well if his back bolt is broken then the exhaust manifold has been exposed to the type of heating cooling that would pop these bolts off due to expansion and contraction, there is no sence in saying that the other one isn't broken off because the chances are more than likely it is.

now if only its70 would just take off the thermostat housing and prove me right...
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Old 05-10-2009, 08:46 PM
  #28  
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Speaking of heat, and a little OT, and tail pipe end shouldn't be hot enough to burn your hand should it??? The tips is right off the muffler so maybe Im just over reacting.
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Old 05-10-2009, 08:55 PM
  #29  
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^^^ Yes, at running temp your tailpipe will burn your hand. Get an infrared thermometer... it will prob be 200F+.
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Old 05-10-2009, 09:30 PM
  #30  
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^^^ Thanks I guess I still have a bit to learn about Z cars, As well my Camaro exhaust NEVER got that hot @.@ And yes infrared thermometer... Um Does lowes have them? lol Idk where I can get one

Sorry for OT posts, please continue
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Old 05-10-2009, 11:56 PM
  #31  
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underneath the thermostat housing will be exposed the excessive heat i do agree... but as far as goin from hot to cold and back again i do not agree... under the thermostat housing will not go from hot to cold any faster than the rest of the engine... as soon as the engine heats enough to need the coolant thats the first part of the engine it goes to... in my opinion the closest to the very back of the engine (closest to the firewall) will be the most susceptible spot to get hot... as far as heat goes to rusting a bolt... its moisture that rusts... not heat... heat just helps evaporate....
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Old 05-11-2009, 04:19 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by ellisdaddy917
... its moisture that rusts... not heat... heat just helps evaporate....
yep that's why most of the time exhaust manifold bolts come out pretty easy, unlike their pesky cousins further on down the line
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Old 05-11-2009, 05:55 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by 280zx2by2
yep that's why most of the time exhaust manifold bolts come out pretty easy, unlike their pesky cousins further on down the line
Actually, they probably come out easier because the cylinder head is aluminum.
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Old 05-11-2009, 07:43 AM
  #34  
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Alright I have a bunch of questions, thanks in Advice for any help or info.
1) If I have to take the intake and exhaust manifolds off to do this repair should I just change all of the studs while I have it apart, or would that be a waste of time and $$?
2) Besides, stud, intake gasket, and exhaust gaskets would I need any other parts to perform this task?
3) Is there any other areas I should check while I have all of this crap off the motor that is related or not related to this problem, that is accessible only when this stuff is off?
4) Will the Exhaust manifold need any machining or will it bolt back down with out being warped?
5) Would a header be a good idea, how much better are headers over the stock set up? Pros and Cons of header over manifold?
5) Will I need and specialty tools for any part of the teardown?
6) How long has it taken you guys on your first time removing this stuff?
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Old 05-11-2009, 08:23 AM
  #35  
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Have you seen this yet? https://www.zdriver.com/forums/240z-280zxt-s30-s130-tech-tips-275/how-do-your-intake-exhaust-gasket-18779/

Originally Posted by lts70
Alright I have a bunch of questions, thanks in Advice for any help or info.
1) If I have to take the intake and exhaust manifolds off to do this repair should I just change all of the studs while I have it apart, or would that be a waste of time and $$?
2) Besides, stud, intake gasket, and exhaust gaskets would I need any other parts to perform this task?
3) Is there any other areas I should check while I have all of this crap off the motor that is related or not related to this problem, that is accessible only when this stuff is off?
4) Will the Exhaust manifold need any machining or will it bolt back down with out being warped?
5) Would a header be a good idea, how much better are headers over the stock set up? Pros and Cons of header over manifold?
5) Will I need and specialty tools for any part of the teardown?
6) How long has it taken you guys on your first time removing this stuff?
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Old 05-11-2009, 10:23 AM
  #36  
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Doing this my first time took me a long time. Primarily because I couldn't get the bolts for the heatshield off. I went retarded and ended up tightening some of them when I should have been loosening and then couldn't remove them. So it was really hard to see where the mounting bolts were. I had to find them and undo them just simply by feel. If you get the heatshield off the intake manifold this project becomes ridiculously easy. I just pulled apart the intake/exhaust manifolds on my 76' 280Z the other day. Took like 20 minutes because I took the heatshield off first.

You will need the intake/exhaust manifold gasket. Get the Beck/Arnley gasket from Rockauto.com You're going to want to get new studs definitely. You'll probably want to order them soon so you'll have them as it might take a little while as he has to make them and doesn't always have a set ready to go. There may possibly be a few little gaskets you might need, but you'll have to see what you need to remove. By the way if you've never changed it, I'd say see if you can get your O2 sensor out while you're at it.
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Old 05-11-2009, 02:45 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by duowing
Get the Beck/Arnley gasket from Rockauto.com You're going to want to get new studs definitely.
I have an exhaust leak as well that I'm preparing to fix (that ever popluar rear header bolt). I replaced the first one with a nissan gasket when doing the head gasket. Is the Beck/Arnley on the same quality level as the nissan gasket?
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Old 11-02-2010, 10:57 AM
  #38  
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Does anyone have a link to where I can buy an exaust manafold stud online?

I found this at Rockauto, would it be the one I need?

1983 NISSAN 280ZX 2.8L 2753cc L6 MFI (H) [L28E] SOHC : Exhaust : Exhaust Bolt / Spring Wiki Price
DORMAN Part # 03104 Size M10-1.50 x 52mm
Front
$3.38
Add to Cart


The Zstore has a hole set. Do I need to replace them all or just the broken one?

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PEC03/15-8081

Manifold Bolt, Nut & Stud Kit, *75-83 280Z/ZX

Quantity in Basket:none
Code: 15-8081
Price:$19.95

Last edited by lts70; 11-02-2010 at 12:01 PM.
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Old 11-02-2010, 03:10 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by lts70
Does anyone have a link to where I can buy an exaust manafold stud online?

I found this at Rockauto, would it be the one I need?

1983 NISSAN 280ZX 2.8L 2753cc L6 MFI (H) [L28E] SOHC : Exhaust : Exhaust Bolt / Spring Wiki Price
DORMAN Part # 03104 Size M10-1.50 x 52mm
Front
$3.38
Add to Cart


The Zstore has a hole set. Do I need to replace them all or just the broken one?

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PEC03/15-8081

Manifold Bolt, Nut & Stud Kit, *75-83 280Z/ZX

Quantity in Basket:none
Code: 15-8081
Price:$19.95
That is the set that I purchased a short time ago. I would save yourself some future grief. And get the whole set, it will be worth it. They are Nissan quality, and made well. And because I went to an exhaust header. I ordered the intake exhaust header gasket. If you plan on going that route. If not, just get the basic intake exhaust gasket.

It is not too hard of a job, once you get the broken bolt extracted. Good luck man, and keep us posted.
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