BlueKitsune

Uh, Rebuilt the head with polished valves and the block was honed and reringed. It was pretty much just a minor rebuild. I blew out the headgasket and just used that as an excuse to rebuild the motor.

Only major parts I upgraded was all the hardware to ARP and a New Cast iron Turbo oil pump

FubarI33t

I got 26-28MPG on my 83 N/A 2+2 5 speed. 3:54 rear. and when I had my 81 trans and 3:90 gear i still got around 23-24MPG. I did not have a heavy foot all the time. and spent about 70% of the time on interstate at 75-80MPH. These things get really great MPG when there right. OF COURSE I cleaned my intake up ALOT, got rid of crap. No IAC, No EGR, No Cold Start, No Coolant threw T/B, Pallnet fuel rail. stock injectors, 240SX T/B. Idle controlled threw T/B screw.

BlueKitsune

Ok Here maybe I read this wrong.

Test 1
TPS Ohm passed
*3a. 0.202K OHM - Spec at 200 OHM [Air Flow Meter Resistance]
*3b. 0.200K OHM - Spec at 200 OHM [Air Flow Meter Resistance]
*3c. 114.9 OHM - Spec at 100 OHM [Air Flow Meter Resistance]
AIR TEMP *4. 6.49K OHM @ 20F - Spec at 3250 - 4150 OHM @50F
5 and 6 tests skipped as their cali tests and I have a fed.
WATER TEMP *7. 7.25K @ 20F - Spec at 3250 - 4150 OHM @ 50F
*8. No connection. - Spec at 45 - 65 OHM [Air Reg. & fuel pump]
*9a. Full ground - Spec at 0 OHM [ECU Ground]
*9b. Full Ground - Same as above [ECU Ground]
*9c. Full Ground - Same as above [ECU Ground]
*9d. Full Ground - Same as above [ECU Ground]
TEST 2
Battery volt at 11.94V
*1. 11.70V [Ignition Coil Trigger Input]
*2. 11.92V [ECU Power Input]
*3a. 10.56V [#4 Injector Electrical Circuit]
*3b. 10.52V [#1 Injector Electrical Circuit]
*3c. 10.52V [#5 Injector Electrical Circuit]
*3d. 10.53V [#6 Injector Electrical Circuit]
*3e. 10.52V [#3 Injector Electrical Circuit]
*3f. 10.53V [#2 Injector Electrical Circuit]
TEST 3
*1. 11.66V [Start Signal Circuit]
*2. 0V [AUX. Air Reg. Circuit]
*3. 10.93V [Cold Start System Circuit]

So... There we go. Oh and Yes I don't have an aux air regulator on my Z.

BlueKitsune

Just realized something I forgot to tell. I have the wrong gear in my transmission for the diff so it reads a perfect 10mph over all the time. So.... I'm actually getting LESS MPG then what I'm getting! bleh.

hoov100

Tighten up the spring on the AFM flapper (Or convert to z31 EFI) and keep on eye on your plugs.

BlueKitsune

I went to open up the AFM and found something shocking. its already been opened up once before, and because of that. I cant get the cover off! Its like, super glued or something, I'm not sure....

WildmaN

^ Then I will bet you, that it is set too rich. Just use a sharp knife, or razor blade. And get that bad boy open!

BlueKitsune

I cut around the edges about 10 times now, and even with some prying it refuses to come off! Might just cut the cover off and replace it with the spare I have.

BlueKitsune

OK got the cover off! And if I push the AFM needle thing even the slightest back to Where it sets with the engine off, it bogs down. But if I push it a little to where it goes when you rev to motor it picks up a little RPM.

Is that right?

Oh I also noticed that if I unhook the air temp sensor it idles smoother

BTW does NO ONE sell NEW CHTS? Or are they mislabeled as Water Temp Sensors?

NismoPick

Yep... that's the basic way to adjust the afm... tighten / loosen the spring in the direction it runs better.

As for the CHTS, also yep... one of the big misnomers of today's parts suppliers... they all call it the coolant temp sensor due to the 280Z and early 280ZX having no CHTS, instead it was placed in the thermostat housing. I don't know why no one has ever updated that info...

I believe CourtesyParts has it named correctly. You can also get it from AZ / Checker:

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...er=125559_0_0_

BlueKitsune

Well I don't feel like messing with the afm if its adjusted to the leaner side. Trying to fix my MPG not make it worse lol

And thats sorta what I figured... And I was thinking if they didnt cost a fortune I'd just change it out to see if that helps any with my MPG issue. Even tho my current one ohmed just fine.

WildmaN

Yeah from what you said. Your AFM is dialed in correctly. Maybe try the rebuild, and readjust the carbon track inside? It might help, not sure if you have done it already.

BlueKitsune

I'm starting to wonder if the ECU is screwed or something