FINALLY. New Gasket Time!
#52
There is a little hole that the tensioner slides into? Behind it? I assume there would need to be one for the spring...
On a scale of 1-10, how retarded is it to reset without taking the timing cover off?
On a scale of 1-10, how retarded is it to reset without taking the timing cover off?
#53
11 on the scale of retardedness. I think ONE person ONE time claimed on HBZ to have reset it w/ a small long screwdriver.... the actual chances of getting it in blind is very slim to none. In any case, your cover is off right?
I don't think there's a hole for a pin lock like newer motors (I know the KA has one). Just shove it in & keep tension on the chain w/ the block of wood you should have used in the beginning.
I don't think there's a hole for a pin lock like newer motors (I know the KA has one). Just shove it in & keep tension on the chain w/ the block of wood you should have used in the beginning.
#54
Alright, manned up, took that bitch off, chucked it, now i'm sitting here with a broken water pump bolt and no idea what TQ the timing cover and water pump bolts should be at.
Info plox?
Info plox?
Last edited by WanganDevilZ; 09-01-2010 at 05:27 AM.
#55
You're doing all this without a manual?
Here are your torque specs (BTW, you can download the FSM at www.xenons130.com/reference)
Here are your torque specs (BTW, you can download the FSM at www.xenons130.com/reference)
#56
You're doing all this without a manual?
Here are your torque specs (BTW, you can download the FSM at www.xenons130.com/reference)
Here are your torque specs (BTW, you can download the FSM at www.xenons130.com/reference)
#57
#59
Fml...
When my water pump bolt snapped, wasnt a big deal cause I could get to it.
Now a headbolt has snapped, while I was torquing it down, down in the threads. Not really any way to get to it either. When I was pulling it out there was some brown dust that smelled like smoke.
Guess I'm stuck with the RB20 for a while. I miss my L28 roar =(
And I wanted to have her running by our anniversary too. ****
I might as well just part out what I can from the L28, not alot to save from it tho =/
When my water pump bolt snapped, wasnt a big deal cause I could get to it.
Now a headbolt has snapped, while I was torquing it down, down in the threads. Not really any way to get to it either. When I was pulling it out there was some brown dust that smelled like smoke.
Guess I'm stuck with the RB20 for a while. I miss my L28 roar =(
And I wanted to have her running by our anniversary too. ****
I might as well just part out what I can from the L28, not alot to save from it tho =/
Last edited by WanganDevilZ; 09-03-2010 at 10:09 AM.
#60
Dude... how do you snap a head bolt?! Either that head bolt was weak (and shouldn't have been re-installed) or you over-torqued the hell out of it. They should only go to ~60ft/lbs... and you get there in 3 torque pattern rotations... ~25, then ~40, then your final.
How far down in did it break? Pics? I had an already broken headbolt in my 22RE 4Runner. It broke flush w/ the top of the block so I welded a bolt on it & backed it out.
If it broke off down inside, get a carbide spade bit, drill a center hole, and use a 4-edge tapered extractor to get it out.
How far down in did it break? Pics? I had an already broken headbolt in my 22RE 4Runner. It broke flush w/ the top of the block so I welded a bolt on it & backed it out.
If it broke off down inside, get a carbide spade bit, drill a center hole, and use a 4-edge tapered extractor to get it out.
#61
Dude... how do you snap a head bolt?! Either that head bolt was weak (and shouldn't have been re-installed) or you over-torqued the hell out of it. They should only go to ~60ft/lbs... and you get there in 3 torque pattern rotations... ~25, then ~40, then your final.
How far down in did it break? Pics? I had an already broken headbolt in my 22RE 4Runner. It broke flush w/ the top of the block so I welded a bolt on it & backed it out.
If it broke off down inside, get a carbide spade bit, drill a center hole, and use a 4-edge tapered extractor to get it out.
How far down in did it break? Pics? I had an already broken headbolt in my 22RE 4Runner. It broke flush w/ the top of the block so I welded a bolt on it & backed it out.
If it broke off down inside, get a carbide spade bit, drill a center hole, and use a 4-edge tapered extractor to get it out.
#62
Join the club man. I have been almost a year without a running Z. Last September, I blew the head on my T-top, then the gasket on my Slicktop. All in the same weekend! And I have been working on my Slicktop since then. Still is apart, and not ready to run. I so want to hear my L28 run also. I miss my Z alot.
So let's get them going. We can do it bro'. Have more patience, and take your time. Do not rush, and the rewards will be worth it. Trust me on this. I have had my Z down before.
And a word of advice. Not to say NismoPick is wrong. Torque the bolts a little at a time. Start at 25, then work your way up. Don't really think of how many times you will torque the bolts. I went 25, 40, 45, 50, 55. Something like that. Whatever works for you. But do start at a lower number. And do a little at at time. Until you get the max torque. Then do the max torque one more round. To assure you have all the bolts to the right specifications. And according to my FSM, 55ft lbs. is maximum torque.
Anyway you and I will get there. Good luck to both of us.
So let's get them going. We can do it bro'. Have more patience, and take your time. Do not rush, and the rewards will be worth it. Trust me on this. I have had my Z down before.
And a word of advice. Not to say NismoPick is wrong. Torque the bolts a little at a time. Start at 25, then work your way up. Don't really think of how many times you will torque the bolts. I went 25, 40, 45, 50, 55. Something like that. Whatever works for you. But do start at a lower number. And do a little at at time. Until you get the max torque. Then do the max torque one more round. To assure you have all the bolts to the right specifications. And according to my FSM, 55ft lbs. is maximum torque.
Anyway you and I will get there. Good luck to both of us.
#63
Join the club man. I have been almost a year without a running Z. Last September, I blew the head on my T-top, then the gasket on my Slicktop. All in the same weekend! And I have been working on my Slicktop since then. Still is apart, and not ready to run. I so want to hear my L28 run also. I miss my Z alot.
So let's get them going. We can do it bro'. Have more patience, and take your time. Do not rush, and the rewards will be worth it. Trust me on this. I have had my Z down before.
And a word of advice. Not to say NismoPick is wrong. Torque the bolts a little at a time. Start at 25, then work your way up. Don't really think of how many times you will torque the bolts. I went 25, 40, 45, 50, 55. Something like that. Whatever works for you. But do start at a lower number. And do a little at at time. Until you get the max torque. Then do the max torque one more round. To assure you have all the bolts to the right specifications. And according to my FSM, 55ft lbs. is maximum torque.
Anyway you and I will get there. Good luck to both of us.
So let's get them going. We can do it bro'. Have more patience, and take your time. Do not rush, and the rewards will be worth it. Trust me on this. I have had my Z down before.
And a word of advice. Not to say NismoPick is wrong. Torque the bolts a little at a time. Start at 25, then work your way up. Don't really think of how many times you will torque the bolts. I went 25, 40, 45, 50, 55. Something like that. Whatever works for you. But do start at a lower number. And do a little at at time. Until you get the max torque. Then do the max torque one more round. To assure you have all the bolts to the right specifications. And according to my FSM, 55ft lbs. is maximum torque.
Anyway you and I will get there. Good luck to both of us.
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