I bought my 1983 280zx 2+2 w/automatic non-turbo in
Florida in 2006. In Florida the Z did not need the Cold Start Air
Valve and Cold Start Fuel Injector, Here in central wisconsin
the Z needs all the help it can get. It was -14 degrees this moring.

I need help with the setup of the Cold Start components. Currently
I have lean-out the 6 fuel injector by tightening up the AFM.

My Z is a Model S130, with digital dash, auto--temp control, power
windows & door, AM-FM stereo with 1/4 track auto-reversig tape
player. With 108K on the odometer, I have replace just about every-
thing under the chassis.

Heres what it looked like when I bought-it.

 

nice is it an anniversary edition?

 

welcome. so whats the problem? the PO took out the cold start valve? theres no cold start valve in the top of the intake manifold any more? or what? you were a little vague on what the actual problem was. lol. and being from chicago i know exactly what the weather was like this morning.

quick question, just cause i was talking with a WIS girl alot lately and i was wondering if this was something well known up there. have you ever heard of the term FIB or FISH ? if so, whats it mean? ive been told already but i just wanna see if there is some sort of conspiracy agains us IL people. lol

 

1980 was the year for the anniversary... and the colors were black & gold, or black and red.


Terry... Welcome to ZDriver! And post a pic of your engine bay (mainly the intake manifold).

 

welcome

and wrong forum

 

Welcome to the site. Moved this to the right forum for you.

 

Thanks for the warm welcome and questions.

I don't know if the correct way to add to my original post, but here is the scoop and pix of my Z.

The poor starting in cold weather and plug fouling prompted me to use my genius mind to improve the cold start feature. The Thermo-Timer is used to power up the cold Start fuel Injector, It staying energized till 1) the engine is warmed up and Therno-Switch Open its ground path which then opens the Cold Start Fuel Injector pwer path. One side of the Cold start fuel injector is wired to the ECU (pin-4) which provides Power to The Cold Start Fuel Injector.

As the time to get the engine warm is deependant on the engine rpm and outside temperature... the other factor is the Cold start Air Supply Valve which is power on with the Fuel Pump. The Cold air Valve has a built-in Heater which is used to heat up and close the Cold Start air pathway. Thie added air is used with the added Cold Start Fuel Injector to increase th Idle RPM and improve cold weather driveabilitiy.

My brain fart was I did not realized that the ECU was the power source for the Fuel Injector. I simply wanted to power-on the Fuel injector for 2 secnds and turn it off for 2 seconds, instead of its continuous spraying of fuel at 2 oz per second ito the intake manifold. However, again the brain fart, a timer is really like the Turn Signal Flasher. So instead of my NE-555 timer. I connected the Turn signal Flasher to the Power side of the COlD Start Fuel Injector, and tried to start the Z. Result ECU Green LED flashes Once then turn-off !!!

So the engine starts and runs even though the ECU may be blown. The dash
instrument signals are processed by the ECU or there may be a fuse blown in
the Dash too. Local Nissan Gru-ru said ECU is causing dash to go dark.

I have a lead on a replacement ECU, and will update this thread again in couple of weeks for the replacement ECU to arrive.

So here's my Pixs o the interior and exterior of my Z, I will add the engine pix
next week after it warms up and I can get to the Z in storeage.

 

There is an ECCS and a EFI version in the FSM manual. My 280zx has
the EFI version and that version has the Cold Start components.
Take a look EF&EC-52, this page shows the fuel rail and cold start valve
(Fuel Injector).

As I explored the brain fart I had in the previous post, this post includes
the Pixs of the Intake Manifold and engine bay.

My source for the ECU has failed to provide the exact ECU I need so if
anyone has a matching ECU I would appreciate an email response. The
FSM manual does a pretty fair job on how to test the ECU and Sensors.
The Schematics are very good, but the wiring diagrams are different
and difficult for me as they do use wire numbers but the numbers do
not cross connectors, they use wire color coding. Any suggestions?

My email address is tryme.terry@yahoo.com

The ECU I need has the Warning Label saying Only use on 1983 280zx

The Part Label has these two numbers:

A11-654-806
2917


Pix #1


Pix #2


Pix #3


Pix #4


Pix #5


Pix #6

 

I see TWO potential problems...

#1... Someone hacked the cold start injector wiring & added a new plug (looks like a quick release). You should prolly check that connection.... it doesn't look too secure.

#2... What's up w/ the TPS? Is the cover missing? That could definitely be causing probs.

#2.5... You have no battery!!!

 

In the pic with the air regulator, I see a brass connector connecting some rubber hoses, and no clamps securing the hoses except on one part. Is the AFM's cover zip-tied shut? If so, it could have been tampered with by the previous owner.

 

TPS does a lot during clold start, so that does look like pretty high priority. i think my first step would be to take that cold start injector out of the ECU wiring. i would either put it all back to stock, or control that cold start injector manually.

 

In cleaning Leaking Vacuum lines.. Cold Air Regulator had a cracked hose.
Instead of putting a 1/2 ID replacement which appeared to Kink, I wanted
resolve any Kinksn and maximize the Air Flow...The 90-degree Brass Elbows
and two short and very tight fitting hose segments appear to be leak-free.

The TSP, I agree hat it is a problem, came that way from previous owner.
But will be replaced as my z-budget allows.

Oh Yeah, that strange looking wire nut was needed to remove That Flasher
that my brain fart thought was a good idea. Now, the AFM is another
story..... My Z was fouling plugs in very short time like 5-6 weeks, the
compression check indicate all cylinders were within 10-psi
(160 -to-170 psi ) so I researched the Internet, and I found a low tech
procedure witch was written clearly. I adjusted the AFM myself for best
Driveability, and then drove the Z to Wisconsin Automotive Emission Testing
Located in West Bend where they ran it thruogh the Emission Test.

It passed the emissions tests readily, with out any additional adjustment.

Now that Winter is here..... the cold start hardware should allow the Z
to enrich the starting and improve winte driveability. The Z would Loadup
with fuel and foul the plus, I gone thru 4 sets in past year.

My current concern is that the Flasher may have blown the ECUs input via
Pin-4 as its the Pin the ECU uses to Power-On the Cold Start Fuel Injector
Valve. The FSM EFIs inspection test says to run the engine up to 2K rpm
for 2-minutes, then drop it back to Idle, and the ECUs Green Led, should be
flashing 5 times in 10 seconds.

Ahhhh yes, the Battery, which is not in place as the Z is in a Rental Unit.
The rules are that you take the battery out while its in storage as a fire safety issue. The New Battery Tray was built in 2006 as the preious owner
negelected to remove battery while stored in Florida for 7-years. The Fire-
wall behind the battery had to cut-out and rebuilt. You could see a flash-
light thru the firewall.

On the issue is the power supply for the ECU CAUSING THE DASH PROBLEM.
My research in the FSM manual clearly States that there are TWo Z models
an EFI which is powered by the Battery, and a ECCS version which does
have the power supply tucked under the driver side dash.

I will be testing all the sensors I hope ths week if the weather continues
to cooperate.

Thanks for the Questions, and if anyone has a ECU with A11-654-806 and
2917 as its part numbers please email me what you $need to part with iit.

terrymac

 

oh yea i forgot. wisconsin called me all the way in VA. they want thier tie wraps ahem cough cough i mean cheese back.

 

Well today, I took the advice from one of the ZDriver members, and
disconnected the ECU Module and Checked the Sensor Wiring for ground
at the 35 Pin ECU Connector.

I would not have guessed the Cold start Air Regulator Valve Coil, Pin-21,
measured 0-Ohns meaning the coil was shorted to ground .It should
of measured about 60-70 ohms. So I removed the Sensor Connector and
rotated the Valve to check the coil directly with the ohmmeter. It Measure
Correctly. I reinstalled the Valve and rechecked Pin-21 and the ground was
cleared.

I then check the ECU Start Up Pulse on Pin-26, The ECU Cable is still
disconnected, as was the Starter Wire Disconnected, and The battery
was reinstalled, then I put the Ignition Switch to the Start Position....
and the Voltmeter showed a short 12v-dc pulse as I put the Ignition in
the Start Position.

I disconnected the Battery connections, and Reinstalled the ECU Cable
to the ECU. Reconnected the Batterry Cables, Turned the Ignition
key to RUN and the Digital Dash instruments were ON.

I reconnected the Starter Wire to the Starter, Turned the Ignition
to Start and th Engine fired-up with Digital instruments showing Fuel,
Speed/Tach and Temp, and over on the Gauge Cluster, the Clock
showed 12:00 and started to run.

However, the ECU Green LED is Off, even though the engine is running
about 1400 rpm. I need to do some more testing on the ECU, and
Cold start Air regulator . The engine idles around 1400, but when you
put your foot down on the Accelerator, it stuters like its too Lean. This
could be the Air Reg Valve had not Closed and too much Air is leaning
the FuelMixture.

Now I am pretty sure that the Dash does Not have a Problem/maybe!

I forgot to add this Pic for the Cold Start Air Regulator Valve.

 

i THINK I HAVE A COLD START VALVE. I will check my 1983 280zx stuff and let you know tomorrow.

 

NismoPick, found my wire nut connecting the Cold Start
Fuel Injector wires, and it was replaced with a crimp-
on connector to prevent intermitent failure.

Lifgrddue, noted my brass fitting, well that idea
came from a friend. I tried standrd 5/8 inch automo-
hose, but it kinked and affected air flow. I installed
5/8 inch brass close fitting elbows to the 5/8 hose.
And Air flow is very good. The rubber hose fits very
tight on the brss fitting, no air leaks there.

However, the Cold Air Valve (referred to is the Aux Air Valve
in the FSM) does not close, unless I hit it with a wrench.
Yes Zchio, I have a Aux Air Valve on order.

The TPS is another sore spot, need replacement, budget $$,
having 4-wisdom teth pulled tommorow.

I have a pic or two for some of the Z owners who have
digital dash.

My digital dash is functioning just great, now that I
removed the shorted Cold Air Valve from the going to the
ECU.

Oh, the TPS does some interesting thing if set incorrectly,
like causing the engine to surge up and down.

The ECU did not like the rairified level, I set it to.
But it started to flash properly when I set the AFM to match
the setting when it passed emmisions tests last summer.

Now for the Pic, taken from a 1982 280zx dash I bought.
Dash Pic:

Opening Dash Pic:

MPH ad TACHO Pic:

Fuse on MPH Backside Pic:

Speedo Connector interface Pic: