Free 1983 280ZX turbo
12-21-2006, 11:16 PM
#1
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 7
Free 1983 280ZX turbo
I have chance to get 280ZX turbo that has been parked last 8 years after friends father died.
Giving me car in exchange for cleaning property to sell.
Tried the car and it starts but dies within 1 or 2 sec after releasing key from the start position.
Also has no power to anything in car except the headlights and key.
No parking lights, interior lights, dash lights, no window power, wipers out, basically nothing works except starter and headlights.
would it be worth getting car to go (35000 miles) and where would I even begin.
Bought repair manual but I'm lost already. Previous cars were always pickup trucks, so this is confusing.
Would both problems be related?
Giving me car in exchange for cleaning property to sell.
Tried the car and it starts but dies within 1 or 2 sec after releasing key from the start position.
Also has no power to anything in car except the headlights and key.
No parking lights, interior lights, dash lights, no window power, wipers out, basically nothing works except starter and headlights.
would it be worth getting car to go (35000 miles) and where would I even begin.
Bought repair manual but I'm lost already. Previous cars were always pickup trucks, so this is confusing.
Would both problems be related?
12-22-2006, 12:00 AM
#4
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Tampa,Fl
Posts: 285
if the cars been sittin for 8 years u gotta change all the fluids drop the gas tank clean it put new fuel an fuel filter in, an probably some injector cleaner also check the fuses n fusible links so what have u done to the car since u got it? what do u mean go 35,000 miles?
12-22-2006, 12:08 AM
#6
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 7
so what have u done to the car since u got it
I think I need to stay with pre-emmissions control cars...so much easier
12-22-2006, 12:15 AM
#7
Über User
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: lemont, Illinois
Posts: 9,532
change out the gas... its probably varnish by now. and will screw **** up and will cause the car to not run.. drain it and fill her up with a couple gallons of premium. and change out the fuel filter.. then try to start her again.
12-22-2006, 12:25 AM
#8
confuzed member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Salinas, CA
Posts: 3,074
your alternator could be VERY rusted as well which would screw up the power to anything. Start to change fluids, filters, etc. heck....even parting it out would yield a lot of relatively free money. heck, depeding on price and my budget at the time, I'd consider taking the drive train for my s30.
12-22-2006, 07:43 AM
#13
Grumpy & Helpful
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Mill Creek WA
Posts: 1,415
If it was running when laid up and you think you might like a Z car it would be worth getting it running. They aren't worth a lot of money. If you say it starts and then dies at least you know the engine isn't frozen. Lots of the other stuff sounds like corroded connections or fuses. 35 K on an 83 zxt is just barely broken in. Got one sitting in my garage waiting to be redone. I'm one of the old guys and I like the retro D Jaguar style look. The turbos run away from kids in Honda civics with 6" tail pipes so that is a plus. My guess is if you are a fair wrench you can get her going fairly easy. Do the stuff above about fluids, gas etc. Can you hear the fuel pump start for about 5 seconds when you turn the key to ignitiion. It should which would pressure up the fuel rail. You can pull the hose off the outlet of the fuel filter and run a 4 foot length of hose to a can turn the key and see what comes out. Assume you checked the air intake for mice nests. Need air, fuel and spark to run.
12-22-2006, 04:48 PM
#16
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 7
Well first day 
into it for 300
found the little bearings under some distributor plate were out rolling around under dist cap.
New distributor.........
Somewhere is massive dead short for other power. In fusable link box on passenger side is terminal marked 'B' (battery???), no power there so ran wire from battery and touched it......wire got hot and melted plastic...not good.
went to fusebox on passenger foot hole under dash, hooked hot wire there and same thing...wire got hot and melted plastic.
removed fuse and touched downstream side of fuse plug, got lights to work, radio works, basically everything works when bypassing main buss in fusebox.
Looks like 2 large white wires give power to the upstream side of the fuses, and when putting power to them, my jumper gets hot and melts. They go up into a large bundle of wires to who knows where...can't find the wires in the repair manual. Looks like it's down to cutting tape off the hrness and manually following wires..unless someone knows where they go from fusebox to battery???
When distributor gets in next week then I will be back to starting problem so will work on wires now.
They seem to be 2 seperate problems.
into it for 300
found the little bearings under some distributor plate were out rolling around under dist cap.
New distributor.........
Somewhere is massive dead short for other power. In fusable link box on passenger side is terminal marked 'B' (battery???), no power there so ran wire from battery and touched it......wire got hot and melted plastic...not good.
went to fusebox on passenger foot hole under dash, hooked hot wire there and same thing...wire got hot and melted plastic.
removed fuse and touched downstream side of fuse plug, got lights to work, radio works, basically everything works when bypassing main buss in fusebox.
Looks like 2 large white wires give power to the upstream side of the fuses, and when putting power to them, my jumper gets hot and melts. They go up into a large bundle of wires to who knows where...can't find the wires in the repair manual. Looks like it's down to cutting tape off the hrness and manually following wires..unless someone knows where they go from fusebox to battery???
When distributor gets in next week then I will be back to starting problem so will work on wires now.
They seem to be 2 seperate problems.
02-11-2007, 10:23 PM
#18
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 7
Well distrib is in....runs fine..on hot shot then nothing.
Just tap the key to start and fires right off.
Will not run on it's own tho.
Things I've checked;
fuel is getting to and is under pressure to the rail,where I disconnected the hose at the pressure regulator (fuel in side) and fuel shot out rather nicely (no pressure guage but was a good stream), so fuel getting to the injectors.
I wouldn't think ALL injectors are bad so have to think that something else is up.
Are there any tests to see if injectors are getting power to tell them to open and allow fuel to pass?
As the ECUs seem to be in the 500 range, I haven't decided yet if the car is worth keeping.
Just tap the key to start and fires right off.
Will not run on it's own tho.
Things I've checked;
fuel is getting to and is under pressure to the rail,where I disconnected the hose at the pressure regulator (fuel in side) and fuel shot out rather nicely (no pressure guage but was a good stream), so fuel getting to the injectors.
I wouldn't think ALL injectors are bad so have to think that something else is up.
Are there any tests to see if injectors are getting power to tell them to open and allow fuel to pass?
As the ECUs seem to be in the 500 range, I haven't decided yet if the car is worth keeping.
02-11-2007, 10:32 PM
#19
Originally Posted by Prospector
fuel is getting to and is under pressure to the rail,where I disconnected the hose at the pressure regulator (fuel in side) and fuel shot out rather nicely (no pressure guage but was a good stream), so fuel getting to the injectors.
I wouldn't think ALL injectors are bad so have to think that something else is up.
Are there any tests to see if injectors are getting power to tell them to open and allow fuel to pass?
I wouldn't think ALL injectors are bad so have to think that something else is up.
Are there any tests to see if injectors are getting power to tell them to open and allow fuel to pass?
Originally Posted by Prospector
As the ECUs seem to be in the 500 range, I haven't decided yet if the car is worth keeping.
Hopefully you don't mean $500 range. You can get a turbo ecu for $30-$50 on ebay... $40-$100 from a junk yard that has a guarantee. $500 for the 400hp JWT ecu.
02-12-2007, 10:38 AM
#22
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 7
You can get a turbo ecu for $30-$50 on ebay
Is there an interchange list somewhere? Maby from another Nissan so I don't pay for the 280Z name?
Other than that I haven't seen new ones for less that $499.
02-12-2007, 11:03 AM
#23
Originally Posted by Prospector
Other than that I haven't seen new ones for less that $499.
or $249:
http://www.blackdragonauto.com/icatalog/z/0078.html
Last edited by NismoPick; 02-12-2007 at 11:06 AM.
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