...take the lead off your coil at least. You don't want any chance that your engine will start.

 

Oh yeah, thats an important part. Disable the ignition

 

Out of curiosity, how hard is it to change the oil pump gasket? I'm thinking it could also possibly be that considering the location of the pump and where the leak is. I'll probably try and replace those two gaskets when I go to do the front oil seal next week.

 

The oil pump gasket is EZ.
But, if you remove the oil pump, you must install it and the distributor shaft properly to time your ignition. Set the engine at TDC on cyl #1 compression stroke. Line up the dot on the distributor shaft with the center of the curve on the oil pump shaft. Then carefully install the oil pump. If you drop the oil pump without setting TDC first, you may never find the correct way to put the pump in and have the distributor set properly.

 

Thanks for the advice. I'll make sure to be careful when I do that.

 

I'm going through the same thing here soon. I pulled the turbo engine to find that the entire front of the engine is just covered in oil and dirt. It's really wet so I know its still leaking. I'm just going to get an entire front cover gasket set. Comes with everything for the lower end except the rear oil seal and the oil pan gasket. And it's only like $10.00 through NAPA. I also found out my damn turbo is on its way down hill. Major play in the shaft. I'm going to have to start searching out an alternative to that one. But hey, only $75 for the whole car Anyone got a center section they want to donate?

 

for me it just essentially seems to be more towards the bottom, but I'll look into that set. Cus worst case scenario I might have to replacemore than just the front oil seal and the oil pump seal. Can you direct me to this gasket set? I can't find it on Napa's site. Also I looked up the oil pump. I found an inlet gasket, and a mounting gasket. I'd probably want to replace both of those I'd assume. As for seperate I can't seem to find the front oil seal. I don't know what to search. I search front oil seal, but nothing comes up. I've come up with a Rear Main Seal.

 

http://napaonline.com/masterpages/NO...ver+Gasket+Set

Thats the link to the set.

And I think the oil pump inlet gasket is just for the pick up. It's not an external gasket I dont think.

And as for just front seal: http://napaonline.com/masterpages/NO...Seal&VehCode=Y

Hope that helps.

They also have an entire lower end set with the oil pan gasket and everything

 

Oh and I should point out that if you consider the cost of the front seal alone from that second link then the $10.46 for that whole set is actually a pretty good price. I'm not sure how many other auto parts chains carry a set like this either so you could always try shopping around too. NAPA tends to be a little pricier than some of the others like Autozone. But NAPA's tends to carry higher quality parts than the cheaper places.

 

Well it looks like that front seal comes with that set. So I figure I'd just go with that set anyway. Now does that set include the oil pump gasket, or do I have to still buy that seperately? Not like an extra $.70 is going to kill me.

 

yeah its got the oil pump gasket. Basically anything that gets removed during a timing chain change has a gasket in the set.

 

if your going to pull you front cover ...make sure you buy a few tubes of ...
victor reniz aluminum silicone sealant ......this is the best stuff for sealing your front cover back on ......also make sure you take the alot of time makeing sure the the oil passages around the oil pump are sealed up well ...........

 

Alright, last question. What's the best way to go about torquing the crank pulley bolt back to spec or at least tight enough that I won't have to worry? Attempt to just do what I did to get it off?

 

Yep... pull up the ebrake, put it in gear & tighten the sucker. I think the torque spec is about 100 ft/lbs. Might want to check in the Haynes manual tho.

 

Again it's the auto. Although I've noticed that I can take it out of park when the car is off. So like if I put it in Drive or 2 with the ebrake on, would that be the equivelant?

 

Yes. Yes it would.

 

Translation of "putting it in gear" means putting it in D or lower for autos.... or any of the 5 gears if it's a manual. Gear = Gear for either. Yay!

 

I guess you're right, but I'm only use to putting it in gear if it's a manual. I guess I just don't use the term gear for automatics.

 

Just go out and rent an air compressor and impact wrnech for the day. Should just be a deductible that you get back when you return it. When I used mine a few days ago, it was TOO easy. Two short pulls of the trigger and it was off. Crank didn't even flinch.

 

I'll have to look into that.

 

Does the front stabilizer bar have to be removed to get the oil pump out?

 

It makes it A LOT easier.... Just unbolt the frame brackets & let it drop down enough to make space.

 

Man I feel like a complete noob now. It appears to be the oil pump gasket. We got it up and the oil was all right around the pump. It matched up pretty well with the drip and everything and that was clearly where the oil was still wet. The biggest problem we have right now is getting it to TDC. I know how to do that, my problem is I cannot see where the notch in the crank pulley is supposed to line up with the mark on the cover. Any suggestions or tips for lining up TDC in this car?

 

Dont use the timing cover to find TDC. If you've got the head on the engine then the easiest way is to remove all the sparkplugs and get a flat head screwdriver and insert it into the #1 sparkplug hole. Now slowly rotate the engine. You'll feel the pison come into contact with the screwdriver. Slowly rotate until you feel the piston start moving back down. Then back it up just a bit to put the piston at TDC. It doesn't have to be correct to then thousandths of an inch cause the sprocket only has so many teeth. Do it that way and it'll line the crank up so you can install whatever it is you need to install. To verify, make sure the #1 cam lobes are both facing up and both valve are completely closed.

Well I just typed all that and I realized: Did you even take the timing chain off? I was thinking of another thread when I typed all that. Anyways, if you haven't taken the head off then just take the valve cover off and rotate the engine until both cam lobes on the #1 cylinder are facing up (not neccessarily straight up, but both valve should be completely closed) That is TDC.

 

Well if I was to not take the valve cover off. What if I did the route of pulling the plugs, waiting for the number one cylinder to rise, but then also checking the distributor to see if the rotor is pointing at the number 1 spark plug? I'd assume that'd work just as well.