had a 81 once..
06-17-2006, 06:15 AM
#26
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 35
its an 83.
I couldnt sleep. I have a feeling I'll buy it even if he wont budge from $1500.. I've literally been looking for a 280zx for a year. This is the first one thats in halfway decent shape. I think it will get snatched up quick if I don't take it. You dont see this price/condition come around too often in my town.
i coulda sworn the latest year 280zx's had the higher speedo.. but it looks like its only an 80mph... i hate those speedos..
I couldnt sleep. I have a feeling I'll buy it even if he wont budge from $1500.. I've literally been looking for a 280zx for a year. This is the first one thats in halfway decent shape. I think it will get snatched up quick if I don't take it. You dont see this price/condition come around too often in my town.
i coulda sworn the latest year 280zx's had the higher speedo.. but it looks like its only an 80mph... i hate those speedos..
06-17-2006, 09:19 AM
#28
Head Muckraker
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Bay Area
Posts: 9,221
The only 280ZX with a speedo that reads higher than 85 mph is the 1979. Or one from Canada... 210 kph... 
That car does look pretty good except for the paint. One area where I think you could bring him down on price is the rear hatch where he either had a wing attached at some point or louvers that screwed into the rear hatch.
I can see the holes in the pic from the back... That'll take a welder to seal up and you don't know how much water/rust has accumulated...
That car does look pretty good except for the paint. One area where I think you could bring him down on price is the rear hatch where he either had a wing attached at some point or louvers that screwed into the rear hatch.
I can see the holes in the pic from the back... That'll take a welder to seal up and you don't know how much water/rust has accumulated...
06-17-2006, 09:20 AM
#29
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Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: south georgia
Posts: 293
That car looks great! One car I looked at was just like that one, but needed paint, interior work, gas gauge didnt work, pieces in the trunk were missing, but it ran good. It belonged to a mechanic,and the least he would go was $1300. That car is a deal at $ 1500 if it runs as good as it looks, but I would offer him $ 1200 cash, worst he can do is say no, what he may do is meet you around $1300 with a counter offer. You save $150 bucks or so, to spend on fixing up the little things. Good luck, my car started at $1000 and I got it for $650, but the drivers seat in mine was destroyed, needed tires and some small stuff. I pulled the engine which ran, but not to my liking, to install a rebuilt one I had in a parts car. Welcome to ZDRIVER!
06-17-2006, 09:48 AM
#30
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 35
My Z experience. NOTE: Even tho I'm going to list every problem i noticed in this car, I'm not trying to say it wasnt a great deal for the money. I know that most of it can be fixed easily. I just dont want something with quite so many issues I'd have to fix. I understand its a 25 year old car though. I was a mechanic for 5 years when I was younger, and know most of this Z end to end. I fixed my own up for 2years.
PROS:
-Original radio and tape player works, very clean condition
-Body was very complete, very straight for the most part
-Interior was excellent I'd say, considering the year. Almost no dash cracks, all panels pieces intact and mostly clean
-Air conditioning worked.
-All gauges worked
CONS:
-auto-antenna was broke off, not working
-driver side mirror casing chipped/missing a piece
-little 2" x 1/2" strip of surface rust in front of one T-top
-power steering was very noisy at slow speeds. He said he just had an oil change and had all fluids checked. I then found the power steering resevoir on empty..
-there was indeed a hole in the hatch, and also velcro. He said he had a louver set at home for it
-very loud clicking from right rear brake almost all the time
-very low on power for 137,750 miles. It seemed slower than my 1981 Z which had 160k on it when i got it.
-loud fart can muffler, very obnoixious
-the body work done on door of course, obviously had been hit. The hood lines werent quite even also, can't trust the frame.
-ride was very bouncing, needs new shocks
-tires had maybe 20% left
Conclusion:
This car drove fairly well once it was moving. I was considering making an offer on it as I was returning from the test drive. The more important issues that made my decision was the body work indicating an accident, and the strangely low power.
PROS:
-Original radio and tape player works, very clean condition
-Body was very complete, very straight for the most part
-Interior was excellent I'd say, considering the year. Almost no dash cracks, all panels pieces intact and mostly clean
-Air conditioning worked.
-All gauges worked
CONS:
-auto-antenna was broke off, not working
-driver side mirror casing chipped/missing a piece
-little 2" x 1/2" strip of surface rust in front of one T-top
-power steering was very noisy at slow speeds. He said he just had an oil change and had all fluids checked. I then found the power steering resevoir on empty..
-there was indeed a hole in the hatch, and also velcro. He said he had a louver set at home for it
-very loud clicking from right rear brake almost all the time
-very low on power for 137,750 miles. It seemed slower than my 1981 Z which had 160k on it when i got it.
-loud fart can muffler, very obnoixious
-the body work done on door of course, obviously had been hit. The hood lines werent quite even also, can't trust the frame.
-ride was very bouncing, needs new shocks
-tires had maybe 20% left
Conclusion:
This car drove fairly well once it was moving. I was considering making an offer on it as I was returning from the test drive. The more important issues that made my decision was the body work indicating an accident, and the strangely low power.
Last edited by plac; 06-17-2006 at 09:56 AM.
06-17-2006, 10:37 AM
#31
More Than Meets The Eye
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Mesa, Az
Posts: 5,120
That's too bad bro', because I really thought it was a decent Z. Why don't you talk him down more than what we suggested earlier. You never know, but hey you know what you want. Of course I paid too much for my '81, and paid little to nothing for my '82. Good luck to you either way, and happy Z hunting.
06-17-2006, 12:52 PM
#32
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 35
I think I'll consider offering him $1000 for it in an email. I am listing my reasons similiar to what I listed above.
I cant remember if this 83 has rack and pinion or a steering box. I'm mentioning the power steering resevoir fluid issue, which probably means a leak in that system.
I could buy a new side mirror, and a new antenna. And maybe do a brake job. But springs and shocks and this just starts becoming a money pit.
I cant remember if this 83 has rack and pinion or a steering box. I'm mentioning the power steering resevoir fluid issue, which probably means a leak in that system.
I could buy a new side mirror, and a new antenna. And maybe do a brake job. But springs and shocks and this just starts becoming a money pit.
06-17-2006, 01:06 PM
#33
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 35
This is what I sent him.
************************************************** ***
Thanks for the viewing today. It was a nice flashback down memory lane for me. You were a very respectful, courteous person to deal with, and I appreciate that rarity these days. I might consider paying $1000 for the car, but not any more than that. I want to give some reasons for that, but I’m not saying that it’s not worth what you are asking. I bet you can get $1500 for it from someone. I’ll discuss my thoughts on the car, for both my own review, and also to help you with anyone else that might come to see the car. These are all just my personal opinions from my experience with cars over the last 18 years, not meant to offend you..
Here is the brake noise we heard, brake jobs are cake for me, that’s not too big a deal.
“Rear brake calipers 'clicking' while moving. (foot not on brakes) this is common. The design of the calipers allows the brake pads to move a little. very slightly warp in the rotors causes the pads to click. Not really and issue and doesn't nessisarily mean something is broken. They may still click with new rotors and new pads. Brake pad anti-squeal goop will stop the ticking for a couple thousand miles... but it'll come back eventually.”
It didn’t look like a tune up had been done recently, but there is no way to know. Fluids are checked with any standard oil change. With that power steering reservoir so low, it probably means it has a power steering leak. Its unlikely that much fluid just evaporates over time, otherwise, it hasn’t been checked in a very long time. Fixing a leak could be as easy as a high pressure power steering hose, or as expensive as a new rack and pinion. (I cant remember if this year has a rack and pinion or just a steering box). I would top up that power steering fluid before anyone else views the car. That’s the very first thing I heard when I pulled out.
The car seemed very low on power for its mileage. My 1981 280zx had 160k on it and had more pickup. I thought the air filter might be clogged as a simple fix, but if it’s a K&N then its not that lucky. If the plugs/cap/rotor happened to be old, that would also cause reduced power. One last possibility is if the cat converter were a bit clogged that would also cause lower power. But since it passes smog that’s also unlikely. A engine compression check would confirm whether the engine is just tired or not..
I could always replaced the cracked driver side mirror and the rear antenna. But the hole in the rear hatch would have to be welded up and sealed which would cost me extra money too. I would replace the exhaust system back to stock, not sure if those are still available currently. The ride felt a bit harsh which looked like worn shocks to me. I think the tires would have to be replaced in a few months also. With no receipts at all, and no owner history, its hard to know what this car has really been through in its life. As you can see, this could quickly turn into a money pit for me, which isn’t really what I was looking for.
The final issue is the door. There is only one reason it had to be repainted/fixed, and that’s because it was hit or in an accident. Without knowing details on that, its hard to know what if anything else could have been effected in that situation. If you provide the VIN # and allow me to check the cars history, this would tell me a lot more about the car, and let me make a more informed decision.
Thanks again for your time and you do have a gem there for the right person.
************************************************** ******
************************************************** ***
Thanks for the viewing today. It was a nice flashback down memory lane for me. You were a very respectful, courteous person to deal with, and I appreciate that rarity these days. I might consider paying $1000 for the car, but not any more than that. I want to give some reasons for that, but I’m not saying that it’s not worth what you are asking. I bet you can get $1500 for it from someone. I’ll discuss my thoughts on the car, for both my own review, and also to help you with anyone else that might come to see the car. These are all just my personal opinions from my experience with cars over the last 18 years, not meant to offend you..
Here is the brake noise we heard, brake jobs are cake for me, that’s not too big a deal.
“Rear brake calipers 'clicking' while moving. (foot not on brakes) this is common. The design of the calipers allows the brake pads to move a little. very slightly warp in the rotors causes the pads to click. Not really and issue and doesn't nessisarily mean something is broken. They may still click with new rotors and new pads. Brake pad anti-squeal goop will stop the ticking for a couple thousand miles... but it'll come back eventually.”
It didn’t look like a tune up had been done recently, but there is no way to know. Fluids are checked with any standard oil change. With that power steering reservoir so low, it probably means it has a power steering leak. Its unlikely that much fluid just evaporates over time, otherwise, it hasn’t been checked in a very long time. Fixing a leak could be as easy as a high pressure power steering hose, or as expensive as a new rack and pinion. (I cant remember if this year has a rack and pinion or just a steering box). I would top up that power steering fluid before anyone else views the car. That’s the very first thing I heard when I pulled out.
The car seemed very low on power for its mileage. My 1981 280zx had 160k on it and had more pickup. I thought the air filter might be clogged as a simple fix, but if it’s a K&N then its not that lucky. If the plugs/cap/rotor happened to be old, that would also cause reduced power. One last possibility is if the cat converter were a bit clogged that would also cause lower power. But since it passes smog that’s also unlikely. A engine compression check would confirm whether the engine is just tired or not..
I could always replaced the cracked driver side mirror and the rear antenna. But the hole in the rear hatch would have to be welded up and sealed which would cost me extra money too. I would replace the exhaust system back to stock, not sure if those are still available currently. The ride felt a bit harsh which looked like worn shocks to me. I think the tires would have to be replaced in a few months also. With no receipts at all, and no owner history, its hard to know what this car has really been through in its life. As you can see, this could quickly turn into a money pit for me, which isn’t really what I was looking for.
The final issue is the door. There is only one reason it had to be repainted/fixed, and that’s because it was hit or in an accident. Without knowing details on that, its hard to know what if anything else could have been effected in that situation. If you provide the VIN # and allow me to check the cars history, this would tell me a lot more about the car, and let me make a more informed decision.
Thanks again for your time and you do have a gem there for the right person.
************************************************** ******
06-18-2006, 04:27 PM
#34
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 777
The car looks decent.. But Id pass. I payed $500 for my 280Turbo and it wasnt too much worse. Mine had some rust in a few places and needed paint but mechanically it was perfect and its especially hard to find non rusted cars around. So for that price considering its a non turbo, id keep looking.
06-18-2006, 07:37 PM
#35
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 35
Where do you live? Around here in Cali, a car like that ususally costs upwards of $2500. He was a bit pissed at my low offer and told me why a lot of the stuff I mentioned wasn't as bad as I made it sound. I emailed him and asked if he could offer me another test drive to re-evaluate.
06-18-2006, 09:42 PM
#38
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 35
ya im pretty depressed. he emailed me and said he has a verbal agreement with someone for cash tomorrow. if it falls through he'll contact me. I dont think there will be another in that condition for $1500 for a long time around here. Cuz I been looking at them for a full year.
06-18-2006, 09:43 PM
#39
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 2,827
Look at it this way, if you were meant to have "that" car then you would be driving it. Your Z is out there waiting for you to find it or for it to find you like mine found me, it was yelling at me from the back of a car lot. It just poped in the corner of my eye one day when I drove by it...and now it is mine. Yours is out there man...just don't force it.
06-18-2006, 10:40 PM
#41
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 35
Clean to me, will mean the same condition as the one I was looking at. but I wouldn't travel out of state to get one either. When its just an extra toy I don't have to have, rather than a daily driver, I'll have to find just the right local-ish deal. And I prefer bone stock.
I'm gonna spend $850 to chip my car this week to make up for it. 2006 GTI, the chip will add 30hp and 40tq to the wheels. I've seen exhausts alone cost more than that with much less gains. But that will ease my pain for now.
I'm gonna spend $850 to chip my car this week to make up for it. 2006 GTI, the chip will add 30hp and 40tq to the wheels. I've seen exhausts alone cost more than that with much less gains. But that will ease my pain for now.
Last edited by plac; 06-18-2006 at 10:43 PM.
06-19-2006, 12:13 AM
#43
More Than Meets The Eye
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Mesa, Az
Posts: 5,120
Thanks bud, I appreciate the kind thoughts. And yeah that Bride in that particular color scheme, is hard to find. I got lucky when I found it on e-bay. A lot of the work I did, is ideas, from looking at other people's rides. And the influence of the original Transformers. More to come, keep checking back on my page. And good luck on finding the Z you really want. And the one I offered you will not run right now, and the interior is rough. But the body is almost flawless with little to no rust. Just thought I would try to ease your pain a little. Can't blame a brother for trying.
