Hair dryer blower thing...
03-15-2007, 08:52 AM
#1
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: S. Fla
Posts: 36
Hair dryer blower thing...
Do I really need that injector blower? I've yet to see it come on? It is supposed to cool the intake? If it is then why? I've never heard of that. Ive seen a few cars with out them.
03-15-2007, 08:55 AM
#2
It helps prevent vapor lock. If the motor reaches ~200*F or more at anytime during the run, one minute after shut off the fan kicks on for 17 minutes to cool the intake & fuel rail.
It's not uber-important... but I'd leave it on unless you have a specific reason to take it off.
It's not uber-important... but I'd leave it on unless you have a specific reason to take it off.
03-15-2007, 10:12 AM
#4
Bleach is my Hero
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,293
I could have swore that vapor lock happened at a WAY higher temp than 200* I had mine removed and I live in AZ and never had a problem..
EDIT: Found some info on it..
Vapor lock is a problem that mostly affects gasoline-fueled internal combustion engines. It occurs when the liquid fuel changes state from liquid to vapor while still in the fuel delivery system. This disrupts the operation of the fuel pump, causing loss of feed pressure to the carburetor or fuel injection system, resulting in transient loss of power or complete stalling. Restarting the engine from this state may be difficult. The fuel can vaporize due to being heated by the engine, by the local climate or due to a lower boiling point at high altitude. In regions where higher volatility fuels are used during the winter to improve the starting of the engine, the use of "winter" fuels during the summer can cause vapor lock to occur more readily.
[edit] Causes and Incidence
Vapor lock was far more common in older petrol fuel systems incorporating a low-pressure mechanical fuel pump driven by the engine, located in the engine compartment and feeding a carburetor. Such pumps were typically located higher than the fuel tank, were directly heated by the engine and fed fuel directly to the float tank inside the carburetor. Fuel was drawn under negative pressure from the feed line, increasing the risk of a vapor lock developing between the tank and pump. A vapor lock being drawn into the fuel pump could disrupt the fuel pressure long enough for the float chamber in the carburetor to partially or completely drain, causing fuel starvation in the engine. Even temporary disruption of fuel supply into the float chamber is not ideal; most carburetors are designed to run at a fixed level of petrol in the float chamber and reducing the level will reduce the air:fuel mixture delivered.
EDIT: Found some info on it..
Vapor lock is a problem that mostly affects gasoline-fueled internal combustion engines. It occurs when the liquid fuel changes state from liquid to vapor while still in the fuel delivery system. This disrupts the operation of the fuel pump, causing loss of feed pressure to the carburetor or fuel injection system, resulting in transient loss of power or complete stalling. Restarting the engine from this state may be difficult. The fuel can vaporize due to being heated by the engine, by the local climate or due to a lower boiling point at high altitude. In regions where higher volatility fuels are used during the winter to improve the starting of the engine, the use of "winter" fuels during the summer can cause vapor lock to occur more readily.
[edit] Causes and Incidence
Vapor lock was far more common in older petrol fuel systems incorporating a low-pressure mechanical fuel pump driven by the engine, located in the engine compartment and feeding a carburetor. Such pumps were typically located higher than the fuel tank, were directly heated by the engine and fed fuel directly to the float tank inside the carburetor. Fuel was drawn under negative pressure from the feed line, increasing the risk of a vapor lock developing between the tank and pump. A vapor lock being drawn into the fuel pump could disrupt the fuel pressure long enough for the float chamber in the carburetor to partially or completely drain, causing fuel starvation in the engine. Even temporary disruption of fuel supply into the float chamber is not ideal; most carburetors are designed to run at a fixed level of petrol in the float chamber and reducing the level will reduce the air:fuel mixture delivered.
03-15-2007, 10:15 AM
#5
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Southaven Mississippi
Posts: 2,053
The only time mine Ever came on. was when i shorted out a wire. and it kicked on and scared the crap out of me. cause my hand was right next to it. So it had to go. I drive my car everyday. and I drive it hard Alot. I don't have any problems. my car starts as soon as you bump the key.
03-15-2007, 11:26 AM
#7
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: S. Fla
Posts: 36
Vapor Lock OMG!!
That is one of the oldest terms. A quick fix for that would be a electric fuel pump and insulate the metal fuel lines.
For the most part looks like it'll come off, mostly since it isn't and won't be a daily driver. I like a simple & clean engine bay.
So the next question is where is the fuel pump on the block and what kind of PSI does it provide the injs with?
Thanks guys! This is a very good board. I still have so many questions.
That is one of the oldest terms. A quick fix for that would be a electric fuel pump and insulate the metal fuel lines.
For the most part looks like it'll come off, mostly since it isn't and won't be a daily driver. I like a simple & clean engine bay.
So the next question is where is the fuel pump on the block and what kind of PSI does it provide the injs with?
Thanks guys! This is a very good board. I still have so many questions.
03-15-2007, 11:32 AM
#8
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Southaven Mississippi
Posts: 2,053
the pump is at the back. just out side the tank. and 37PSI is average. but mine shoots up to 46+ when i get in it. This is mine with out the lil fan.
https://www.zdriver.com/forums/attac...2&d=1173233591
https://www.zdriver.com/forums/attac...2&d=1173233591
03-15-2007, 11:45 AM
#9
Originally Posted by Ryan280
Vapor Lock OMG!!
That is one of the oldest terms. A quick fix for that would be a electric fuel pump and insulate the metal fuel lines.
For the most part looks like it'll come off, mostly since it isn't and won't be a daily driver. I like a simple & clean engine bay.
So the next question is where is the fuel pump on the block and what kind of PSI does it provide the injs with?
Thanks guys! This is a very good board. I still have so many questions.
That is one of the oldest terms. A quick fix for that would be a electric fuel pump and insulate the metal fuel lines.
For the most part looks like it'll come off, mostly since it isn't and won't be a daily driver. I like a simple & clean engine bay.
So the next question is where is the fuel pump on the block and what kind of PSI does it provide the injs with?
Thanks guys! This is a very good board. I still have so many questions.
03-15-2007, 12:56 PM
#10
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: S. Fla
Posts: 36
Nismo how did you guess???
I know I know, I need to pick one up.
So the heynes is a good one for these cars? The one I got for my F body sucked!
Fubar that's a clean set up. I like the fuel rail. I thought about a breather on the VC. I'm going to have the VC coated too.
I know I know, I need to pick one up.So the heynes is a good one for these cars? The one I got for my F body sucked!
Fubar that's a clean set up. I like the fuel rail. I thought about a breather on the VC. I'm going to have the VC coated too.
03-15-2007, 08:01 PM
#18
Big Poppa
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Mission, British Columbia
Posts: 4,499
i actually hooked mine to keyed power, that way its on all the time while im in traffic or driving. if you get your fuel source cooler, it gets better power. who cares if its ugly or weighs 2 pounds, it gets 3 hp!!! j/k i did it for now as a trial cause the engine bay in my car gets uber hot.
03-16-2007, 07:59 AM
#19
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: S. Fla
Posts: 36
Shady, thats cool and an idea. Actually my next mod would be to remove the fan clutch and go electric so it is on all the time.
Good to know the heynes is good, I'll go buy one.
I just got the parts catalog from black dragon auto good to know parts are out there.
Bottom line it's coming off.
Fubar where did you get that fuel rail??? What did it run?
Good to know the heynes is good, I'll go buy one.
I just got the parts catalog from black dragon auto good to know parts are out there.
Bottom line it's coming off.
Fubar where did you get that fuel rail??? What did it run?
03-16-2007, 08:07 AM
#20
Originally Posted by Ryan280
Fubar where did you get that fuel rail??? What did it run?
03-17-2007, 12:00 AM
#23
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 1,075
Originally Posted by SHADY280
i actually hooked mine to keyed power, that way its on all the time while im in traffic or driving. if you get your fuel source cooler, it gets better power. who cares if its ugly or weighs 2 pounds, it gets 3 hp!!! j/k i did it for now as a trial cause the engine bay in my car gets uber hot.
03-20-2007, 12:58 AM
#25
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 1,075
Originally Posted by skittle
your in the bay area rave r so you should not need it there at all.
Last edited by Heat Rave R; 03-20-2007 at 01:00 AM.
