Lesnocker

Ok thanks I'm just going to replace the valves/guides/seals/lash pads. The shop told me it has already been cut. So he is going to take a skimmer off the head. So I'm placeing the N47 head on the 54 block. The fun of this is just trying different combos. I'm hopeing the combo leads to a ratio of 10:1 + and every point is what 10 to 15 hp. Now for 700.00 I can punch the block out .030 I don't think it would help. Is there resources on the duration and lobe info on all the N/A cams so I can go fishing? If I find a mateing ecu to the cam would that solve the ecu let down?

FricFrac

The ECU is inflexible. You can fudge a bit with the AFM but we're talking basicaly the first fuel injection computers. The Turbo ECCS system is marginally better and running the "A" grind for the turbos is benificial.

For an NA the best you can do is improve how air/exhaust flows in the system. The ECU will hinder some of that so other than running a header/exhuast and some port matching you're not going to be able to squeeze a lot more out of the NA with the stock ECU. If you want to squeeze the most out of your mods you have to go with an aftermarket ECU where you can read what the engine is doing and adjust the timing and fuel to optimize power and efficiency. The best NA upgrade is to go with a stroker build but then you are spending $$$. It's the reason we keep coming back over and over and over to the turbo swap where making HP is much easier.

Lesnocker

I'm in understanding of the turbo swap.I'm just bone headed on this. So we will take this on solo. My machinist is comfy he can work some magic even if it comes down to notching the piston for valve clearance. Worse case my t top is ready for another summer. . .

NismoPick

Good ol' search wins again.

http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/cam/index.htm

XenonS130 - S130 Cam Specifications

FricFrac

There is also a "K" grind that is missing from the list. Had one in my P79 probably from a Canadian car.

NismoPick

Kanadian Kam for Kold Air Intake. (don't make an acro for that!)

Lesnocker

Well under the inspection I found it to be an "A" On a N47 head? This is a mixed bag all right. When I did drive this car while the engine had blown the head gasket it did seem to have more ***** than the current engine. Nismo how correct you were on the statement you don't pull a L2.8 once lol I got it down to an hour. I just may use that N42 block after all. "Prior build?" Ill bring my telescope gauges and Mics home tomarrow. I'm. Very good within +/- .0006 so ill check to see if the block was punched and see if there is any issue with them being true. Ill also get the numbers from the dizzy I did hear the later electronics were a better setup. Other than that I'm running a blaster coil and heavy duty wireing. I have 3 ecus Ill rattle them off as well if there happens to be any differance at all. Thanks guys I did print that chart and faxed it to the machine shop to see if he can decode that data. I have a slight does not compute issue

Lesnocker

Great! Well the wife decides tonight is a great night to start staining the trim in our new gameroom. Had all my cam towers cleaned and in order on the bench as well as my rockers and lash pads. Guess where the stain was. Yup top shelf ontop of my work bench! Guess how my parts are now. Yup in one huge pyle! So now everything is out of order. wonder how a dishwasher cleans a oil pan and a valve cover. I think Ill use the heavy duty option. So the cam towers are line bored so guess ill have to play musical towers till she lines up.

Lesnocker

Whoops my bad. The "A" grind was factory for the "N42" in luck though two of the three towers my alinement pins were left in the head so know the one def goes. The other two well I'm a CnC machinist and got to treat it as a Mill set up ill get it

SHADY280

with the cam towers its actually not too bad to reinstall, order matters but no real biggie same with rockers, ive mixed and matched in a pinch and it all evens out. as long as one part isnt horribly worn compared to the last itll be fine. if you were building a monster build then its time to be picky. someone will probably jump against this but hey whatever. your best bet would have been to get a number punch set and do the cam towers and a sharpie for the rockers and lash pads. o well

Lesnocker

Yup I had a gut feeling had the sharpie in hand! No no I said she never comes in here unless its to take the vette out. Wrong! Well Ill called the shop "Evenuik Performance". They have a lot of write ups. Well they haven't touched the head yet. Sucks but at the same time I'm probs saving money. If mine is a rush job I'm sure id pay plus have a crappy out come. The n54 is out prepped sitting on a pallet strapped down and shrink wrapped.

Lesnocker

Bad pic but the best I can do. Have a cam tower slightly chewed up. Was going to hand hone it at work with emery 120 grit any problems with that? Think this was all taken apart before and incorrectly assembled. Looks as the cam was kicked in the tower and wore into the correct position.

Lesnocker

ok getting Very brave now! My wood working father is makeing me a timeing wedge out of red oak per the specs i pulled through the net. Now honestly how do I judge valve to Piston clearance? Since the head and block did not come together. I know I have three positions on the cam do I just go for #3 and retard it with the dizzy untill she runs smooth? the basics of bolting the head back on are simple but I am freaking out over setting inital time. I will hear from the shop this week on the damage. Hopefully the head wasnt cut down that bad. Should I just pull this engine and send it to the shop to have them do the bulid? Or put it back on its original 90 k block?

SHADY280

if you want to know piston to valve what you can do it have the #1 piston at tdc then insert some sticky tack or similar material on top of the piston. then lightly install the head with gasket to 25 ft/lbs. install the timing chain on #1 rotate the engine over by hand a turn or 2 then take the head off and you can see exactly where and how far the valves come.

Lesnocker

Ok great so as long as there is no contact I'm good? And for cleaning the deck? Do I scrape under shopvac suction and then do I hand emery or do I use a drill powered wire wheel. Its cast so the wire should be fine as long as I don't get grit down the oil passages. This will save me from pulling the engine and the shop bills for seting it up.

SHADY280

scraping should be good, i always use a light grit cookie on a die grinder with low rpm and low pressure for cleaning steel. vacuum wont hurt, keeps everything clean. you may get away with just a scrape.

Lesnocker

Thanks should know tonite if the N42 can be saved if not Ill just change the head gasket on the P79 and call it done! Think it will take about 5 hrs to do with a beer here n there

Lesnocker

Well shop said my cam towers are beat to hell "lack of oil" by the kiddie previous owner. Do they make a cam bearing insert or am I F$#@ed? Thinking of abandoning this project and simply change the head gasket on the engine that's in the car.