thetremendousti

well dang it , i torqued the long ones to 20 ft lbs and the small ones to 10...and then i stripped a small one...but anyways it moved somewhat freely: it was movable with 2 hands and moved real super easy with the nut and the cam socket. What do you think?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2U490Ei976c

NismoPick

You stripped one? Like stripped the threads in the head?

thetremendousti

yeup one of the smaller bolts on the small side of the cam tower +1 +1 i must have got them to 7 ft lbs then the terrible slip feeling and bam i was ****ed

thetremendousti

yes thanks, but 5 posts too late

NismoPick

I say "put the tools down!".

thetremendousti

yeah i know man this has been the most unforgiving experience since....purberty

thetremendousti

im not incompetent! i mean im just getting screwed from 4 different directions everytime i do something.

NismoPick

You should have had the FSM or Haynes manual, or SOMETHING as a reference for you. Putting together a motor w/o any guide is as good as doing it blind.

You definitely should have learned your lesson after finding out ya gotta redo your fresh rebuild.

/smackdown.

Now... to fix the thread issue, yank the cam tower back out, get yourself a tap & die set, and re-thread the hole.



EDIT... and you need to learn how to use a torque wrench.

BlueKitsune

Did you even see what I posted?

thetremendousti

I do have the 82 78 and 73 FSM neither of them have cam bolt torque specs, and I have been following the FSM like a boyscout. I know how to use a torque wrench, im tellin you it got to 7 maybe 8 then it slipped (stripped) !! i dont know what else to tell ya man!! **** pierre z and their shitty *** heads, but AM i okay with my 2 hand spinning?!? Am i asking for really worn bearings?? That was the closest I could get it to after about an hour of LIGHTLY tapping with a rubber mallet to adjust the towers.

duowing

On my "rebuilt" P90 head. We got it assembled and the last cam tower for some reason was not getting oil. Cam seized into it pretty darn good and that caused the little pin on the front of the cam that connects to that gear for the timing chain to shear off. We just removed the cam and cam towers, used the cam towers from my P90A and the N/A cam I had from Shady. The cam towers have dowels to line them up and don't seem to go anywhere. We made sure it had oil, and then reinstalled everything and had no issues. I've had it idling for a while, doesn't exactly have the best idle, but I've also driven it. So unless it's very slowly wearing away I think the cam towers are no big deal.

thetremendousti

quick question, front covers from L24s are still compatible with L28s right? they only made one type of front cover? (timing chain cover, whatever)

NismoPick

Slight changes with the timing plate mount due to smaller crank pulleys on the 240z-280z, but yes, it will work.

snwbrderphat540

jesus this isnt done yet? is hellen keller building this motor?

thetremendousti

chain guides cracked had to run to MSA, had to retap 3 holes in the block and one in the head, and front cover is ****ed, the list goes on....not to mention im working just under 30hrs/week im taking 15 units and weekends are party hardy which leaves me about 1.5 hours a day mon-thurs!



..... + girlfriend = GAME OVER

NismoPick

Speaking of women... my wifey is having a girls night out tomorrow... Friday night garage special! w00t!!!

How far away from MSA do you live? It would be nice to cruise on over whenever I wanted. Tho I hated the drive from our hotel to MSA (the stoplights on Katella Ave are a joke).

hoov100

Your married?

thetremendousti

ANybody: about how much torque is required to hand turn your whole long block? Just grab your torque wrench (dial preferred) a 3/4 socket a turn the assembly, how much should does yours take?

BlueKitsune

18lbs +/- 2lbs without the spark plugs in

thetremendousti

well im looking forward to thiscoming monday night, i'll post a video up here. I have everything set and the engine is finally in so I'm going to break it in (run it idle til warmup then at 1500-2500 rpm for 20 min)...but heres whats been going on

1. The head i bought from pierre'z was .008" warped so i had to get that machined. Took the cam towers off WHOOPS. Got them as close as i could but its still pretty tight (hand turnable but not finger) OH WELL. This next month im going to rebuild my extra head I have (i figured why not). Other stuff:
2. As i finished intalling manifolds...the last thread IN THE HEAD stripped (at 8ft lbs)....**** YOU pierre'z...had to retap two
3. engine mounts i bought "fit" the mounts...but wouldn't line up... **** YOU ROCKAUTO
4. my partner sand blasted my front cover (bye bye front oil seal) **** YOU partner -$80
5. discovered my chain guides were cracked as i was installing them...bye bye $50
6. had to buy a new temp gauge because somehow my '74 wiring blew itself up.

more stuff i cant remember it right now...

thetremendousti

um i live about 45-60 minutes? it depends on everybody else. its not that bad!

NismoPick

I take it you didn't keep the motor mounts loose while installing? That would have solved the prob... they would have likely lined right up, then you tighten them after the motor is dropped into place.

As for the front oil seal... why $80?

BlueKitsune

Uh maybe you meant $8? If you paid $80 for just the seal, you got REALLY REALLY ripped off...

thetremendousti

the actual motor mount I bought (with the 14mm stud and the little line-up notch) didn't fit the mount so i shaved it and then it went kaputz. either way i paid for a pair of motor mounts and i only got the right one. o.0.

the HEAVY sand blasting shaved away too much material causing the oil seal to no longer hold and it would literally fall through the opening. Probably like .04" shaved all around either way I had to get a whole new front cover.

thetremendousti

come on man