help!help!
#1
help!help!
My 1982 280zx non turbo keeps on sputtering. When i first turn on the car it idles fine,starts up perfect and i can rev the enigine and everything looks and sounds good. as soon as the car warms up for around ten minutes is when the rpm's wont go higher than 2000. all the valves look good ive replaced the following parts
-Throttle position sensor
-ignition pickup coil
-ignition module
-mass air flow sensor
-fuel pump
-electronic ignition coil
-oxygen sensor
-CAT
any help???
-Throttle position sensor
-ignition pickup coil
-ignition module
-mass air flow sensor
-fuel pump
-electronic ignition coil
-oxygen sensor
-CAT
any help???
#2
I think this is the first major issue of all new zdriver members. You're more that likely about to hear "check your CHTS", as I don't see that on your list of checked parts. It is on the passenger side of the head, and it has a little connector that looks like an injector plug, check the connections, make sure they aren't corroded, mine were >.<
I think 3/4 of the people on this site have had the same issue.
I think 3/4 of the people on this site have had the same issue.
Last edited by WanganDevilZ; 05-05-2011 at 06:42 PM.
#5
Not unless it were overloaded, in which you would be having a lot more problems that the current issue =P
Between Cylinders 5 and 6, check that, unplug the connector and check the leads. (Sorry for quality)
This is a very common culprit for the issue that you are having.
0505112125.jpg?t=1304648793
Between Cylinders 5 and 6, check that, unplug the connector and check the leads. (Sorry for quality)
This is a very common culprit for the issue that you are having.
0505112125.jpg?t=1304648793
#8
It's that Yellow-GreenStripe/black wire, I think mine might be spliced/soldered (PO was retard)
Chillin next to the dipstick and spark plugs 5 & 6
Right above your engine badge
0508112017.jpg?t=1304904092
0508112017a.jpg?t=1304904093
#11
#18
Rust chunks would clog up your fuel filter and starve the engine of fuel. It's possible, but your problem sounds different.
What's the condition of your distributor? Is the module on it damaged? When's the last time you changed your cap and rotor? Is your cap cracked or something? Before I started my engine swap I really let things go to **** under the hood because I knew the old motor was going away, but at one point I started getting steam near the distributor from the thermostat housing and it got the system all wet and would completely lose ignition after 2200 RPM (which was not fun on the 15 mile trip I had to get the car home that day). No spark after a specific RPM range sounds like a distributor problem to me.
What's the condition of your distributor? Is the module on it damaged? When's the last time you changed your cap and rotor? Is your cap cracked or something? Before I started my engine swap I really let things go to **** under the hood because I knew the old motor was going away, but at one point I started getting steam near the distributor from the thermostat housing and it got the system all wet and would completely lose ignition after 2200 RPM (which was not fun on the 15 mile trip I had to get the car home that day). No spark after a specific RPM range sounds like a distributor problem to me.
#20
Does it pop and sputter through the intake side, or does it sputter coming out the exhaust? These cars also notorious for bad ecu contacts. Try cleaning the contact, and jiggling the wires to see if that helps. Do you have any vacuum leaks?