oh, and it's an Electronic Ignition Control Module.

or just Ignition Module as some (including myself) call it.

EDIT: I know blackdragon carries the IM for the turbo models. I've purchased this part for a non turbo from NAPA before but I've never tried to buy a turbo one. So you might try places like NAPA to see if they carry it.

 

It seems to have gotten better. Car fires up super quick. It's like j said his was after cleaning the injectors. Half a rotation and then bam it's running. Took it out for a drive. Car seems random. At some points it pulls good and then other times it's odd. Still has that damn 2k RPM miss. Sometimes I can slam the throttle and it goes, other times it goes, then it like cuts out. I was having trouble on the freeway. I don't know if it's a Timing issue? Maybe related to the fact that I set the timing with the TPS way out of whack and without the TPS and now the TPS is set correctly? I'm thinking I'll swap to my new ignition coil, and see about getting a new Ignition Module? Any ideas guys?

Ok, I'm going through the catalog and I can't figure out which is what in Blackdragon. So I have no idea what an IM costs from Black Dragon.

Napa has one for $164.00
Rockauto - Standard Motor Products - $131.79
PartsAmerica - GP Sorensen - $118.88

I'm thinking of going with the PartsAmerica since it's the cheapest and free shipping. Anyone have any idea about GP Sorensen. I think they're ok. I used their injectors before and never had any problem.

 

They are a pretty good name, as far as I know. And if you have used their injectors without a problem. They should be good to go.

 

Ok...So I've replaced my Ignition Coil and my Ignition Module. Still really not much of a difference. I'm running out of ideas. I'm wondering if maybe my timing is just way too far advanced. My idle is pretty high up around 1200-1500 RPM. I'm going to reset the timing so it's set with the TPS on. This is really becoming annoying. My exhaust leak is getting worse, but I don't think that's the problem.

 

Have you adjusted the AFM? (I didnt want to sort through 54 posts to get the answer )

 

I did adjust the AFM, but right now I have a remanned AFM in the car that I recently bought.

 

This sounds like a fuel flow problem to me... It has all along. But, like J... I don't want to read through a million posts to try and figure out what you have and haven't already replaced or checked.

It is a flow problem.

Rod.

 

Alright to make it easier for everyone here's what has been done so far:

Remanned Injectors
Remanned AFM
New Pressure Regulator
New Air Regulator
Swapped TPS from 2+2 and Adjusted to FSM specs
Swapped CHTS from 2+2 to my Turbo (seemed to make a difference)
New O2 Sesnor
New Ignition Module
New Ignition Coil
Previous Owner put in a new Dizzy
New Cap
New Rotor
New Plugs
New Plug Wires
I did at one point put on a new fuel filter(haven't checked it lately)
=======================================
Have a new fuel filter
Have a new air filter(won't exactly fit for some reason)
We've hooked up a pressure gauge after the fuel filter like you're supposed to and we were getting I believe it was 2 psi below normal idle pressure and then 37 or whatever was correct pressure for full throttle.

After I started adding some of these new things the car did act differently and seem to work better. It seems like my timing is probably also too advanced. Could I have a flow problem and still get the right Fuel Pressure readings?

 

Well, I would have started with the Fuel filter. These cars are VERY finicky about clogged or partially clogged filters. We've had this argument before around here. Just because it's new or almost new doesn't mean there isn't some great big chunk of 25 year old crap lodged in it because of all the sludge build up in the tank... REPLACE it before you do anything else.


Rod.

 

Alright so I didn't change the filter yet, but I took the car for a drive and it was doing alot better. Still having issues like when I first go it. So I went and borrowed a timing light from a mechanic friend. I check the timing with TPS on. Way off, but that's to be expected. I unhook the TPS and the timing is still way off. Also this TPS is from my 2+2. So I first set the timing with TPS unhooked and the car is idling more smoothly. Doing better, but I drive down the street and it's really lacking power. I reset the timing with the TPS connected this time. Idle seems really close to normal as opposed to the 1200-1500 RPM idle I was getting. Idle sounds smoother, and the engine just sounds smoother. I'll give the car a drive in a bit.

Update: Well with the timing set by the TPS, the TPS adjusted so it turns off at .3mm. I took the car for a drive. Driving pretty good now. Seems to have a slight bit of hesitation if I give it too much throttle from a stop light or something. I'm thinking that has to do with my progressively getting worse exhaust manifold leak. So far though the car seems to be doing good.

 

The exhaust manifold leak could be part of the problem, but I wouldn't suspect it's the main cause unless it's really bad. A clogged cat can create the symptoms you're having. Have you inspected your new spark plugs for discoloration since you installed them?

I thought I read an earlier post that you were going to replace the fuel pump. Have you done that yet? When my pump started going bad, it was intermittent, and decided it wanted to work just for the pressure test - go figure. I didn't see EGR valve on your list either.

Also, have you reset the ECU since you've replaced those parts, and inspected the contacts and other wiring?

 

Swapped plugs from 2+2 to turbo. Car's running even better. Still idles a little high, about 1000 rpm, but better than what it used to be. Car still feintly backfires while idling. Probably wouldn't even be heard if the car had a muffler. Still runs odd while cold. Although very driveable, if I give it too much gas the car seems to bog down or something and backfire. This is backfiring, I can hear it from the back through the exhaust unlike before which sounded like it was right in front of me. I wonder if advancing the timing a degree or two would solve this?

Zcar Barbie, what you said about the pump when we were doing the test though even though the pump showed the right pressure the car was still running really crappy. It's possible the pump may be on it's way out so I may replace that eventually. I'm also wondering with so much replaced if I should go ahead and replace my PCV and EGR valves. Also I'm thinking about ordering a new CHTS from MSA just to kinda complete the whole refreshing the EFI/ECCS system. I think fixing the exhaust manifold leak should also help a good bit.

Any suggestions on anything to do?

 

I thought you had already installed brand new plugs. What did the plugs look like when you removed them and replaced with the 2+2 plugs?

Yeah, Jade did that too when she had a manifold exhaust leak. After the engine warmed-up, it stopped. I can only assume it's because the heat caused expansion, which closed-up the area of the leak.

It's really starting to sound like you have a vacuum leak. Have you done the oil filler cap removal test while the engine is warm and idling?

Yeah, you're probably better off getting rid of that exhaust leak and finding out whether that is, or is part, of the problem. In the meantime, you might consider replacing the vacuum lines running to/from the TVV, throttle chamber, PCV, BPT and EGR with brand new ones (not used), if you haven't already. Sometimes vacuum lines don't leak until pressure builds-up on load, and can be difficult to check for leakage. This would make sense in your case, since you appear to have problems under increased load.

 

Her car did what, it had more problems when cold as opposed to warm? That would explain why the Turbo whines so much more. So much exhaust being pushed through that I get the extra loud whistling, then it seals up more when warm and quiets down.

 

Jade = my 82 280ZX in my sig. below

Yeah, she backfired and misfired only when the engine was cold, and most of the time, the popping noise was under the hood, but also came out the tail pipe occasionally. The problem went away when I got her exhaust manifold leak repaired.

 

Was there things like hesitation or anything? I wonder if an exhaust manifold leak would maybe be more apparent with a Turbo? I have replaced some vaccum lines. I've been thinking about a bunch more. No I haven't done the oil/cap filler test. What happens when I remove the cap? Also the plugs were kind of overgapped. A friend and I were checking them and they were a little gapped. Not to mention when my friend put some of them back in he put them in really tight when I got them loosened, the plastic on the plugs that gets inserted into the plug wires cracked and started crumbling. So the slightly smaller gap seemed to help too. I'm just going to put a new PCV in there since I'm betting the PCV valve is the original and about 60k miles overdo for a change anyway.

Also for the manifold leak, did you have someone do that for you? If so, how much did that run you. I was originally thinking of having a shop mess with it since I know nothing about drilling broken screws/studs, but the mechanic friend of ours said he'd help with that.

 

Oh yah, sputtering and hesitation. I felt like I was driving a stagecoach in a bumpy field, being pulled by farting donkeys.

It's an easy way to check for a vacuum leak. While the engine is warm and idling, unscrew the oil filler cap. The engine should stall or run rough. If there's little or no change in the idle, then you have a vacuum leak.

I bought a new exhaust manifold gasket from a Nissan dealership for about $3, and a friend of mine switched Z's with me one day, installed it and added a bolt from one of his parts cars, cuz one of mine was missing. It was a freebie - so nice to have friends.

 

Bought a new PCV valve, so I'll replace that. It was only $4 or $5 so no big deal. I'll start checking for vaccum leaks and such too. Thanks for all the info though. I at least have another direction to start working towards.

I think that was what really bummed me was after I installed a brand new Ignition Module and Ignition Coil and the car was still running just as bad as ever. At that point I had no idea which direction to go. Then I tried to get on the freeway and the car was acting like it did when I bought her. I thought hmm...maybe I should check my timing again. Sure enough that finally brought the car to a very driveable state.

 

So, how's your girl doing now? Still the same?