I'm wanting to overhaul the L28 in my '82 ZX & add some more power as well to include:

Decent header & 2.5" exhaust, some portwork on the head, cold air intake, 60mm throttlebody, upgraded ignition, and a better cam (with springs & lash pads).

My stock EFI setup is in pretty decent shape, but I'm wondering how much the ECU will be able to support with stock injectors & mafs? I'm new to L-series engines, so I don't know what would be best. Would it be worth considering upgrading to a ZXT ECU/dizzy/harness/intake/injectors on a built NA?

 

I suggest reading some books.

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/TB/70-1043



http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/TB/70-1050



http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/TB/70-1041


and tons of other books about engine modifying. Long story short... do research.

 

Nismo is right as rain on this one. It's all about knowledge with these engines, and the more knowledgeable you are, the better off you'll be. Read! Chiltons/FSM.

Carl

PS: Use the search engine when in doubt!! And we're always here to help!!

 

I used the search engine, as there's nothing DEFINITIVE listed here regarding this, I wanted YOUR experience. Why should I spend over $200 on these books when you guys have already read them & know what's good & not good? It's a waste of money & time to me when all I need is someone knowledgeable to chime in here...Not trying to sound like a jerk, but if I wanted advise on what books to purchase, I would have asked that. I'm sure none of those books has EVERY currently available cam choice out there listed & the pros & cons/required supporting equipment.

Now I ask again, at what point does the stock NA EFI system become unable to handle NA engine mods? Stock pistons, stock valves with mild head porting, stock intake/EFI system with bolt ons & cam?

 

with the stock wiring i have 200, or if i ever get it dyno tuned (a very good idea) then it may climb over 200 (rwhp) you need about 6000 to spend to get there tho. well on my n/a anyways. if i flowbenched and balanced, lightweight flywheel, and mega squirt, i would get my 250 rwhp. but there are definately limits to the n/a. spend 10,000 at rebello, and you got 310 rwhp. but you might wanna be rich. read the second book in the pic line-up. very good. then you can ask very knowledgable questions, to help get advice. one question now can lead to 10 answers and 10 more questions now. after reading, it may be a point blank question with one answer. knowledge be your leader here.

 

Wow...You failed big time on the whole "Not trying to sound like a jerk" thing...

Welcome to ZDriver... maybe.



Rod.

 

You're deffinately right... why should you READ books and DO YOUR OWN RESEARCH when someone can try to spoon feed you? Man... I guess I read all of those mod & mechanic books for nothing! Stupid me for doing my own research.

Shady's right on.... he's got a lot of time & money into his n/a motor. 250hp is about all you can squeeze out of the stock n/a.

 

i got that last book you listed, honestly, i never read one damn book on engines, i had nismo help me out on turbo and NA motor differences and just, did stuff.... im not even sure how i learned stuff now.... hmmm........ but yeah getting fed the answers all the time especially on a question like this that has no real answer is just not going to help you out bro.

 

Wait...now its my turn to say what everyone told me.....just swap in an L28ET

Like Shady was saying with his numbers, I would assume that is near the top of what you can get with stock EFI. What is a stock N/A, like 135hp? 200hp at the wheels is a big jump indeed and in a 2800+lb car thats not bad and probably pretty fun. The guys at "the Z store" said I would not want to go bigger than their stage 2 cam kit with stock EFI. As I am sure you must know at this point, more lift and a longer duration will not do much if you have a weak link somewhere between your air filter and your exhaust tip. It may be as easy as doing the things you said you are going to do then upgrading to Turbo injectors and adjusting the timing so you can run 92+ octane gas.

What I would do to a N/A:
Port/Polish head-micro polish if possible
3-5 angle valve job
Balance the crank
Balance entire rotating assembly (Pistons, Connecting rods {all with bolts and rings and wrist pins installed} to within a few grams of each other)
A quality cam kit with double springs and all matched parts
60mm TB
Pallnet Fuel Rail
T-5 tranny and R200 LSD of 3.70 or higher (3.90 perfered)
Royal Purple Oils
Cold air intake that flows better than stock as you will need more incoming air
2 1/2" exhaust ( pre muffler and normal muffler)
Header
Magnaflux the block first and have it cleaned
Bore block 2 sizes up
A super light aluminum flywheel (10.5 lbs)
Stage 2 clutch or better (Centerforce would be my first choice)

There, that should make you happy.

 

Hey now guys, I usually don't say much or get involved. I understand, he may have come on a little harshly. But I am sure he wasn't trying to be rude or anything. Go easy on him guys, just trying to keep it civil here.

Now Matt K, it seems you have goals in mind for your n/a. And yes it would be easier to swap in a L28et, sure. But I still would like to have a n/a built up like Shady's. Just for the fact it is running on it's own power without the aid of a Turbo. Yes it is more expensive, but sometimes, it isn't always the money. Unless it is way out of reach. If you build it piece by piece over time, you will get there. Now as for the books, I have one of those rebuild books. I will be looking at it, when I am ready to start rebuilding a motor. But I do suggest you look into getting these books. Just so you have more knowledge from researching. And then after that, some great knowledgeable individuals, will be more than happy to help you out.

Also Matt K, try to think before you post. Some people can take it the wrong way man. There are a lot of cool people on here willing to help you out. But you should help yourself some also. Hope this makes things better for you here, and for everybody else. And welcome to Zdriver bro', it is a verry awesome website.

 

sorry im quoting this, but it bothers me. lol. thats like saying running a V8 isnt running on its own power because it has more pistons. if it were nitrous i would agree though. adding a turbo is like adding a cam, its just better way to get more air in. sorry, im done, ROCK ON!

 

Thanks for the info. Like I said, not trying to step on anyone's toes, but when someone asks a question, telling them to "search noob" as many places will doesn't make them want to come back. I'm very experienced with other makes & engines, but not with the L-series, which is why I was asking for you more experienced Z guys for advise. I'm a pretty busy guy with my work in the Air Force (Special Ops Instructor Loadmaster on MC-130P's) and my night classes (trying to get that degree finished!) so I don't have as much time as I'd like to research this & make my mistakes to learn. Please don't feel like I'm an @sshole! I do think that a lot of boards are quick to kick "new" guys down rather than help mentor them, so far it doesn't look like this one is too bad...but? Yes, eventually it will get the L28ET conversion, but until I can get one for a decent price (in my area) it looks like I'll overhaul & mod the NA to an extent...not really looking at building a 12-second NA car, I've got my Mustang for that, I've got the 240SX to go even faster!

Here's a few pics of the 240 buildup. I originally built it as a 180SX when I was stationed in Okinawa & tore it down when I moved back to the US last October. It's got an S13 blacktop SR20DET with HKS 264 cams, Full-Race custom GT3567R, Greddy ex. manifold with Type-R wastegate, 1000cc injectors, Greddy clone intake, Splitfire ignition system, Q45 throttlebody, Power FC, 1.2mm Tomei HG with ARP head studs, OS Giken triple plate clutch with OS Giken Full Crossmission, Cusco 2-way diff with 4.36 gears, and all the supporting equipment...Dynoed at 522 rwhp @ 1.6 boost. I also have a fully built SR waiting to go in later with all forged internals, ported head, solid Tomei cams, etc.

180SX back in Oki







240SX shell getting the swap.















Slowly getting there! I have to reweld the front end to replace the V-mount setup this car formerly had (my intercooler is to big to V-mount) & wire in my gauges, install my Progressive Methanol injection kit & repaint the body.

 

Here's a quick pic of the Mustang. I've owned it since 1992 & it's been the proverbial money pit to my wallet over the years! Pretty much everything's been upgraded or changed save a power adder. I haven't taken it to the strip since swapping in my new heads & tuning it, but ran low 13's @ around 109 with ported stock small valve heads on crappy 245-50-16 "Viper" street tires.



Here's the '82 ZX Slicktop I picked up for $900

 

Nice pics....you may give me your Mustang...I am happy to take it, the engine and tranny...if it is a 5-speed will do nicely in my ZX

 

Hey Matt, are you in the Phoenix metro area? Just wondering, because I can see the faded 98kupd sticker on your hatch. lol Nice Z for $900, man good price. And wow you have some nice cars there.

 

No, I'm in Albuquerque New Mexico. This poor Z has been ALL over the southwest! Yeah, the Mustang's a 5-speed, you can have it for $8500 (I'm selling it this year). Here's some of the work done to it:

I paid $4200 for New paint last Aug, New chrome 17x9's (Mar 07) with new Goodyear Eagle F1's ($2000), new KYB shocks/struts & alignment (Mar 07), New alarm in Oct 06, Full tuneup Dec 06 with new O2 sensors/plugs/cap/rotor, new Magnaflow stainless exhaust Oct 06 ($500), New tint in Dec 06, New sound system Dec 05, New Steeda Weight Jacker height adj. forged aluminum lower arms ($500) & UPR uppers in Oct 06, all brakes replaced Dec 06, ~18K on rebuilt 302 (chrome moly rings, HV oil pump, CL77 bearings, blueprinted) with Edelbrock Performer 5.0 aluminum heads, Ported Edelbrock Performer 5.0 intake with phenolic spacer, 65mm TB & EGR, 30# injectors, Dallas Mustang ECU chip, FMS Air Adjuster kit for smoother idle, Adj FPR with gauge, 75mm PROM Bullet mafs, fenderwell CAI, MSD 6AL, Accel Supercoil, FMS B-303 cam with FMS 1.72 roller rockers, FMS HD oil pump shaft, MPG Windage Tray, BBK ceramic headers, Hedman H-pipe & Bassani catted X-pipe (uninstalled, H-pipe on car), FMS HUGE alum radiator, Police clutch fan, Police heater core restrictor, FMS Silicone engine hoses, stainless radiator diversion panel, '93 Cobra waterpump overdrive pulley, 3G 130A alternator conversion (alternator new Oct 06), rebuilt World Class T-5 (less than 16K), rebuilt Traction lock LSD (less than 15K), Hurst shifter, FMS aluminum driveshaft, 3.73 gears, Kenny Brown double cross super subframe connectors, FMS Handling springs (M5300B), Clear headlight/side marker light kit with Silvania Silverstar headlights, '93 Cobra OEM rear bumper & tail lights, '93 Cobra repro rear wing, '93 Cobra grill (uninstalled currently, hopefully in a month or two...), '82 GT hood scoop on original steel hood with pins, and a bunch of other crap I can't remember right now.

I bought the car Dec. '92 & drove it up until Sep 2000, when I got orders to Japan. I signed it over to my brother, who also got stationed in Japan a few months after me, so he signed it back over to me & I re-titled jointly in me & the ex-wife's name. It was stored at my parent's house until I came back the middle of Oct. 06. I've put over $9000 in it over the last year alone, and over ~$30,000 into it over the years prior.

 

Sounds to me around 280-310+whp in that 5.0?
I like the fact that you have alot of Ford Mortorsports parts and the B cam is the way to go, I believe they use that in the FMS GT40 blocks . It sounds like you have done all the typical mods but in a tasteful fashion. I have helped my buddy with the majority of his 5.0's....about 9 of them, he always went E303 and Cobra upper and lowers on his fox bodies...his '95 was a different story all together, 450+whp...Cam, Heads, Upper and Lower, ECU, CAI, Injectors, Ignition, Scat Crank, ect...ect...ect. I have a video of it roasting 1st, 2nd, and 3rd...and he ran out of parking lot or 4th would have been next

I keep saying I will get a fox body one day but I have a Z bug right at the moment...you understand.

 

Wait, if you think turbo is like adding a cam to get more air in, what do you think nitrous does?

And Matt K, your cars are nasty the Z seems to be in good hands.

 

nitrous is switchable power not constant and also can be very detramental. and only useful at certain power bands at WOT and for a certain amount of time. its **** basically, it has its perks and uses though. lol. and it doesnt add air neccessarily, its an oxide yes but its also very cold so it condenses as well.

 

Ohh boy all this Ford talk is making me sick!! LOL J/K I've got a TA 6spd with NA 365 RWHP. I know what you mean by the money pit. I recently got my Z too and the guys here said to put put in my spare engine/trans into the Z but don't see that happening.

I'll for sure boost up the HP but would want to do a Turbo eventually.

 

matt your z looks like one i have recently sent to be crushed. (after svaing every little bolt off it). there were only 2400 or so z cars painted that sceme, so it kinda rare. save it, they look sweet in that color sceme. if you need some ideas, there is a thread some years ago i listed everything i did to my engine. i think its called bragging rights or something. read that, everyone listed there stuff. may get you a good idea or 2.

 

Well, I found a local guy who has a few turbo Z's to part out. Looks like I'll be doing the L28ET swap in a few months!

 

Hey Matt K, I found that old thread when I wrote MSA about cams...might help a little more

https://www.zdriver.com/forums/280zx-performance-technical-79/perfomance-camshafts-factory-cam-specs-17790/