How are my plugs?
#3
No, they are a little light...I thought that was a little strange also. The first three are a similar darkness and then the last three are a similar lightness.
I noticed that the other night when it was about 45 degrees F outside the car drove really well, no bogging or anything but the idle was still high...1,100rpm in nuetral but the car would not warm up even to the first mark on the temp gauge...then of course today when it was like 75 outside the car drove like poo poo. It warmed up to right in between the first and second mark on the gauge. When I blew my waterpump a while back the gauge was in the middle briefly and the car was a little rocket until I nearly maxed out the gauge...at that point it ran like crap. It is like the car, no matter what has a choke on all the time and it uses alot of gas.
I would love to figure out what makes the car stay in a "warm up mode" all the time as I think the car would be great to drive if I could fix it. I got my shock from the turbo back on the N/A and now it feels tighter so that is cool...but this damn bogging crap has me upset. I am trying to work out a deal with a guy I know for his 1989 Mitsubishi Starion Turbo. Now that car hauls ***! 53,000 miles, A/C and power to boot with no mods done to it.
I noticed that the other night when it was about 45 degrees F outside the car drove really well, no bogging or anything but the idle was still high...1,100rpm in nuetral but the car would not warm up even to the first mark on the temp gauge...then of course today when it was like 75 outside the car drove like poo poo. It warmed up to right in between the first and second mark on the gauge. When I blew my waterpump a while back the gauge was in the middle briefly and the car was a little rocket until I nearly maxed out the gauge...at that point it ran like crap. It is like the car, no matter what has a choke on all the time and it uses alot of gas.
I would love to figure out what makes the car stay in a "warm up mode" all the time as I think the car would be great to drive if I could fix it. I got my shock from the turbo back on the N/A and now it feels tighter so that is cool...but this damn bogging crap has me upset. I am trying to work out a deal with a guy I know for his 1989 Mitsubishi Starion Turbo. Now that car hauls ***! 53,000 miles, A/C and power to boot with no mods done to it.
#6
thxone, you and me both. These things run weird. My thoughts are two things for you, start checking for vacuum leaks, and check your CHTS. The CHTS will cause so many problems when it comes to temperature differences. My plugs never come out even, but I can tell because my car doesn't idle properly which is what I'm trying to solve. Compression is pretty much perfect, new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, newer CAS, timing is set correctly.
#10
Originally Posted by NismoPick
^^^ 2nd on the cleaner. Run some Seafoam w/ less than a half tank of gas & see how it looks. Always start w/ the simple.
#11
^^^ its good for that, but idk about the brake booster. thats all the way at teh back of the mani. id do it from the front or middle where the suction will equalize out. otherwise you'll probably only be getting it into a select few cylinders.
#12
hey thxone, you may need a thermostat. its stuck open, mines doing the same thing right now. also if there is a air bubble in the system, it will cause the guage the have a weird reading. id try the stat first, then bleed the air outta that cooling system, it take time to get it right. also clean the intake system too, personally id do both. its the little stuff that goes wrong.
#13
Originally Posted by SHADY280
hey thxone, you may need a thermostat. its stuck open, mines doing the same thing right now. also if there is a air bubble in the system, it will cause the guage the have a weird reading. id try the stat first, then bleed the air outta that cooling system, it take time to get it right. also clean the intake system too, personally id do both. its the little stuff that goes wrong.
I guess it wouldn't hurt to check that stat out...can I use the whole housing from my turbo and swap it over or can I swap the temp sensor over to my N/A? I think someone suggested to check the CHTS...does the '79 N/A have one? if so, can I see a clear and well labeled pic of one? I know on the spark plug side of the head there isn't anything but spark plugs.
#20
Originally Posted by NismoPick
Why don't you ALREADY know? Did he just start that job?
#22
Originally Posted by turboZ87.300
Does your z have a cold start valve??? If so, is it close to 2-3??? If so... that could do it if the cold start injector is leaking...(not closed) or could be dirty and spraying only to the front (1-2-3)
#23
Ok I have actually had that "Cold Start Valve" out of the car and yes it has one and it looks like it needed to be cleaned really bad but how are you supposed to check to see if it is open or closed...it doesn't come apart? Can I soak it in injector cleaner to clean it?
#24
The best way that I can think of would be to leave the fuel line hooked up with the pump on (car not running) and put power to the injector... be careful no to get the gas spray on you or the motor!!!... Try to use a jar/ cup and hold it so the gas sprays down and give it power, you should get a good fan spray... if you have no power to the injector and you have fuel pressure to it, you should have NO fuel coming out of the injector, if you do, this could be the extra fuel... you can find a shop to have the injector tested...
#25
Ok I tried to test the "Cold Start Valve" as pictured a couple of post above and stated above. I pulled the valve out and unhooked the electrical connection...turned the key...nothing..no spray. I turned the key off, hooked up the connection...turned the key and nothing...so after that I tried to start it as well...still no spray....
If it is malfunctioning, what will it cause the car to do? I.E. will it make the car dump more fuel in or will it do something else??? I know it can be functioning correctly right now, the CSV I mean.
If it is malfunctioning, what will it cause the car to do? I.E. will it make the car dump more fuel in or will it do something else??? I know it can be functioning correctly right now, the CSV I mean.