how to speed up 280zx n/a
#2
To speed up, you press the gas pedal more.
If you want more power out of the motor, feel free to search.
Like this:
https://www.zdriver.com/forums/280zx...2-280zx-32759/
https://www.zdriver.com/forums/280zx...d-200-a-32526/
If you want more power out of the motor, feel free to search.
Like this:
https://www.zdriver.com/forums/280zx...2-280zx-32759/
https://www.zdriver.com/forums/280zx...d-200-a-32526/
#6
thanks man kinda lost my cool... looking for some i guess more direct advice are you knowledgeable with my issue? not trying to make a race car just the most i can get out of a n/a..
throttle body size? cold air intake? ecu? injectors?
throttle body size? cold air intake? ecu? injectors?
#7
here is some honest advice about making your car more reliable and driveable
Get your battery load tested. Be sure you have clean, tight corrosion free terminals on both ends of your battery cables. Be sure the ground (negative) cable goes to a bolt into the frame before going to the starter. grounding through the starter is not a reliable connection. Z's don't like low voltage. causes the electronics to act funny. it is possible to have enough amps to crank but not enough voltage to run the electronics. If you have one size fit all cheapo clamp on terminals they are a problem waiting to happen.
Clean the connectors for the maf, ecu and tps. Deoxit by CAIG is probably the best connector cleaner on the market. spray with CorrosionX after cleaning and before putting together this will help prevent any further corrosion.
Replace outer tie rod ends, and ball joints. replace the bushings with poly (don't forget to lube them as directed unless you like squeaky things). New shocks. all those things will make you think you are driving a diffent car. doing them piece meal is a waste you won't see a great improvement until you do the complete job. Rear bushings nice too but more work and you won't notice as great an improvement. Rear shocks also because if the fronts are gone so are the rears. if car squats when you jump on the gas the rears are gone. Don't forget the usual stuff. new plugs, new wires (magnecore are nice), new dizzy cap and rotor. Check the timing. check the compression. None of that will make the car noticeably faster but give you peace of mind and a stable driving platform
Get your battery load tested. Be sure you have clean, tight corrosion free terminals on both ends of your battery cables. Be sure the ground (negative) cable goes to a bolt into the frame before going to the starter. grounding through the starter is not a reliable connection. Z's don't like low voltage. causes the electronics to act funny. it is possible to have enough amps to crank but not enough voltage to run the electronics. If you have one size fit all cheapo clamp on terminals they are a problem waiting to happen.
Clean the connectors for the maf, ecu and tps. Deoxit by CAIG is probably the best connector cleaner on the market. spray with CorrosionX after cleaning and before putting together this will help prevent any further corrosion.
Replace outer tie rod ends, and ball joints. replace the bushings with poly (don't forget to lube them as directed unless you like squeaky things). New shocks. all those things will make you think you are driving a diffent car. doing them piece meal is a waste you won't see a great improvement until you do the complete job. Rear bushings nice too but more work and you won't notice as great an improvement. Rear shocks also because if the fronts are gone so are the rears. if car squats when you jump on the gas the rears are gone. Don't forget the usual stuff. new plugs, new wires (magnecore are nice), new dizzy cap and rotor. Check the timing. check the compression. None of that will make the car noticeably faster but give you peace of mind and a stable driving platform
#8
The best thing I did was open up the exhaust. I put the smog legal MSA header, increased the size to 2.5", and have a Flowmaster Performance muffler on the back. Instead of the crossover design that the n/a has (for some reason, Nissan decided to move the exhaust over to the passenger side after the gas tank on the n/a cars), I now have a straight exhaust exiting on the drivers side. The "Seat Of The Pants Dyno" has nice gains... The car just runs better.
#9
Well I was in your situation a couple weeks ago I desited I'm going with the l28et swap because it's easyer to get more horsepower if your not loaded with money I started to save up for it but in the mean wile I'm replacing all my bushings and ball joints and I will get a magna flow exhuast hopfully this weekend and air intake some time just so I can enjoy a little bit more power intell I can afford the swap
#10
Either do a 350 swap or forget it, and go ***** out on suspension! Test drove a 50,000 mile turbo. $8900.00 honestly not impressed at all! Think I got spanked by a Park ave When did people think these are factory street beasts? Honestly a Buick 3.8 L V6 will kill it. Where ya got the advantage is. " Its looks". Honest opinion Z Owner since 1980
#11
Oh and before the witch hunt. Yes yes if you had 8 types of engines. Full access to a machine shop. Have unlimited funds and your still screwed with the bottle neck amf and intake. Far as I know there is no one selling proven aftermarket. Just tons of peoples opinions on what bit makes a hundered gallgillion hp on tooth paste. I urge anyone posting these questions to direct them to a quality asian garage and see what they say. We have beat this bush for decades and no results. Get the rack n pinion, upgrade the exhaust and cruise
#13
Good hell...
Did you click on those links I posted?
Apparently I have to keep quoting myself...
There is a TON of info on L28E mods and builds... I simply can't (won't) rehash (re-type) the same thing over and over and over and over every time someone says "how can I get more hp?!".
Did you click on those links I posted?
Apparently I have to keep quoting myself...
A good read: Help me make a plan to get beyond 200. - ZDriver.com
So... what's your budget? "ungodly amounts of money" doesn't really define one...
The 280zx already has a "cold air intake". If you want the Honda chrome pipe w/ a cone filter, they sell them at AutoZone, and MSA.
In a nut shell, do the same things that any motor needs for basic upgrades...
Intake
Exhaust
Ignition
Cam
Aftermarket / stand alone ecu
Hopefully it goes w/o saying... Also, a good tune up will wake up an old / high mileage motor.
So... what's your budget? "ungodly amounts of money" doesn't really define one...
The 280zx already has a "cold air intake". If you want the Honda chrome pipe w/ a cone filter, they sell them at AutoZone, and MSA.
In a nut shell, do the same things that any motor needs for basic upgrades...
Intake
Exhaust
Ignition
Cam
Aftermarket / stand alone ecu
Hopefully it goes w/o saying... Also, a good tune up will wake up an old / high mileage motor.
#14
Its good man. Honest question. But take it to the garage get quotes. There is a lot of work to get these engines to sing. Plus your on your own! No holley nor edelbrock proven parts. Your stripping engine blocks by #s and letters. Then they may or may not be good. Your turbo swap gives ya 40 hp for big $$$ and if your a seasoned engine puller /builder go for it. If you just change oil don't touch lol. I'm a Toyota service manager and boy can I tell ya how many horror stories! Celica with aftermarket turbo missing parts of block. MR2 burnt valves due to hack exaust job. TC with no tranny since someone tried improperlly line blocking it. Just fair warnings
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