jfairladyz

Something else I noticed happening when people clean their AFM's is pushing one or both of the internal contacts down in contact with the cover. This will short out the signal. The contacts are inside the AFM right down near the connector. The protrude out toward the removable cover. It doesn't take much to bend them down. If they are in contact with the case just move bend them up.

skittle

thats good to know when i rebuild mine.

WildmaN

Okay, I got him running allright again. But he is missing and popping here and there. My plugs were caked with black, and #3 was worse than the rest. So #3 is definately burning a little oil. And he is still running rich. I called Pep Boys a short while ago. And because I didn't replace the cat, like they said. They won't honor a recheck, so I would have to pay them again. WTF? All I asked them, is if they could get rid of my richness problem. Screw them, they said because you weren't licensed technicians. That you didn't know what you were talking about. That is a bunch of friggin' bullsh#t!! So now, what do you suggest? Unplug the #3 cylinder going in? And or #5, because it acts like an air pump? And Shady what is methyl hydrate? Anyway if I go this week, and fail again. Even after the stuff, I have done, tricks or what-not. That will be it for me, until somebody gets him to pass. I have done what I can, and am clueless. So if you guys don't want to see, or hear my Z being down. As much as it hurts, but what can I do? I am screwed either way. Please help me out, in getting my Z past smog. If not, like I said, I have no choice, and he will sit, until who friggin' knows when?

NismoPick

Just because #3 plug is black, doesn't mean it's burning oil. When it's running too rich... it leaves black carbon deposites. Are you using new injectors? Maybe that injector has probs????

WildmaN

Yes I am using new injectors. They cost me over $400. And I was told, that #3 was bad, and burning a little oil. And where do I get a A/F gauge?

NismoPick

You can buy one from AutoZone... $50 I imagine. They're not as pretty as the AutoMeter ones... but they work.

SHADY280

methyl hydrate is a water seperator and fuel antifreeze. you can boy it a home depot near you in the paint department. if its too rich you can also raise the timing to about 15 or so degrees timing to burn the gas differently, try just tighting the afm spring about 2 gear teeth just to get you through, then when you get there pull off good old #5 injector and raise you idle to about 1000 rpm. and make sure you catalitic isnt hollow, even if its pluged a bit its will still create heat and help burn any excess bad stuff.

jfairladyz

I dont know about AZ but in Cali they check ignition timing as part of the test. So altering timing away from stock settings would be a fail if it's the same out there.

SHADY280

they can come suck my !#$%. they even check timing. man that sucks.

jfairladyz

On newer computer controlled vehicles they dont, but on our older cars where it's set manually: Yep, they check it. But like I said, I dont know if it works that way in AZ

entropy31

hmmm, most of the auto parts store guys i have ever run into seem to not know a whole lot about the majority of cars. much less about Z's. that goes the same for "licenced technicians". i would trust the information i got from this site over a "licenced techincians" opinion (barring, of course, that of a true Z specialist) any day. tell the pep boys losers to pull their heads out of their asses. i really hope you get this problem solved wildman. that would suck if the only thing keeping you from driving your Z is some stupid emissions BS.

jfairladyz

I'll tell you what WildmaN, take your Z down to the Nissan sevice department and see if they're any more knowledable about your 280zx then the members of this site. I seriously doubt those ASE certified technicians can do anything for you that we cant tell you when it comes to these old Z's. They're trained to use scanner and diagnostic's tools. Not too many modern day "schooled" technicians know too much about real world troubleshooting. Sure they've spent countless hours in the classroom learning the ins and outs of the 350Z, but the last time Nissan probably sent someone to school to learn about a 280zx was probably back in the 80's.

Find a place with a tech thats savvy on these old school vehicles and their non-computer controlled emissions equipment. A good tech will enjoy being able to work on your wonderfully simplistic vehicle. It's more rewarding to fix a problem with your brain then it is to fix it with the brain in that $2000.00 snap on scanner.

And last time I was in Pepboys, their service department was flooded with "certified" technicians They keep one or two around for bragging rights, but thats it.

whollywater

I can get you up and running. I'm not a mechinic, but I own 6 Z's, 2 Subaru, 2 Chevy pickups and a 27' cabin cruser with a SBC blueprinted 383 stroked 400 HP.

All of them have Magnetizer Engine Performance Kits on them. I've used them
for 15 years. They are one of the best mods you can add to your ride.
They don't replace falty parts, but they they will clean up your engine: fuel lines, injectors, radator, waterjacket, cumbustion chambers, carbon deposits will be removed into the oil, change and it will stay clean.

Your emissions will drop, your performance will increase, your MPG will go up if you drive the same, but you will likly need to move the seat way back so you can't floor it. I know someone who can get you a good deal on them, me. I will offer any of our different kits to members of zdriver.com or any car club a 20% discount from website prices. I'll buy them back after 90 days, if you are not happy with them, minus shipping and CC fees.

http://www.wholly-water.com/magnetiz...fuel.saver.htm
My Z site: http://www.wholly-water.com/300ZX/30...dSport.2+2.htm

By the way I get 25 MPG with my highest milage 91 300 twin turbo on hiway driving 75 to 80 MPH. stock exhaust.

1990 Pearl white 300ZX 2+2 GS
1991 Pearl Cherry Red custom tt 300 ZX
1991 Astec Red tt 300 ZX 64K mi
1975 280Z 40kmi restored for sale
1983 280ZX 2+2
1981 280ZX

entropy31

"fuel energizers"??? i have to call BS on this. first post is an ad for some scammy sounding product...... sorry man, i dont believe it.

WildmaN

Okay guys I have some good news. I was running my Z to work last night. And he was surging, missing backfiring, popping, and such. Oh well, go into work. And start to drive him home, same thing for about halfway home. Until, I was continuously shifting him past 4000rpm, on the freeway. Well a few minutes after the freeway. Maybe a mile or 2, he started clearing up. And now he runs like a raped ape, once again. So I am thinking for some reason, something was plugged inside. And had to break loose, I was so happy. Now there is a guy that Carl knows. That is a Z guru, here in Mesa. We are going to try, and see if he will look at my Z for me. And get him leaned out, and such. I am afraid, right now, to touch him, for fear of him running crappy again. So I am going to wait and see, about taking him to this Z guy. Will see if it will happen today, or this week. We will see, and I appreciate all the support, and replys, that I have received from all of you.

whollywater

Your lost, I am just trying to help. It does not bother me, my cars run perfect. I've saved thousands with them and earned hundreds of thousand selling them. With a money back gaurantee, people must like them for that to happen. Truth is people love em, thats no bull....

NismoPick

Those magnetic fuel gimmics have been proven false dozens of times... Just like the "magic laundry *****" that magically clean clothes w/ no soap or detergent.

If anything... wouldn't a magnet clamped onto the fuel line, cause problems by collecting iron deposites???

Prove to me w/ Physics & Chemistry how this works...

Skully

you buy my product...and i make money...what more can i explain!!!

jfairladyz

I have a couple gripes about the fuel magnets.
First off, why in gods name would you want to atomize the fuel while it's still in the lines? Thats not going to do you any good. Thats the whole point of the injectors. They atomize the fuel. Sure those magnets might (emphasis on might) do you some good on a carbureted vehicle, but on a fuel injected car, no beans. Atomizing the fuel while it's still in the line does you NO GOOD. Second, why is it that not a single manufacture uses thes devices? Fuel economy is HUGE these days. So you'd think companies would atleast throw it on their gas guzzling behemoth SUV's and cars like the Corvette in order to cut fuel consumption. But they dont. These magnets are about 30 years over due from the days when every one was running around with a carburetor under their hood. But even then, who's to say they'll even work in that case. I'm just saying if they were going to make a difference, it would be on a carbed vehicle, not a fuel injected vehicle.

Now in your defense: The fuel magnets have been tested to show very minute increases in fuel economy in some. We're talking far less than a mpg. And when you figure the number of miles it would take to see any signifacant savings and then factor in the intial purchase price of this device it really does end up becoming a gimmick in the end.

Now here's my problem: I've seen dozens of tests proving these things dont work. But I have yet to see the results of the so called gains that the manufacturers of these products claim. All's we ever see are the final numbers. Never any of the documented evidence these companies claim to have. So please, if you can actually show documentation that these products work then by all means I'll by into the claim that they work. I still wouldn't buy one though cause my driving style would negate the effects anyways

Numbers of units sold and self made claims are NOT evidence that these things work. If it's such a miraculous product, then it's worth the controlled testing it deserves.

WildmaN

Okay I got an appointment tomorrow at a shop, that knows Z cars. Wish me luck, and thanks for the support. Also he seems to run better after I barely retarded the timing. He runs rich, but doesn't foul out the plugs. And has no hesitation, stutter to him. Just flat out hauls, no matter where the pedal is. So it is a start, will let you know what happens tomorrow.

entropy31

good stuff man. best of luck to you. hopefully the shop can put this issue to rest.