I need HELP!!
08-04-2012 | 02:46 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 4
From: Pennsylvania
I need HELP!!
Hello everyone!
I need some help trying to figure out whats wrong with my 82 280zx n/a auto.
I am having serious stalling issues!! I've read almost every post on here with similar problems as mine, but figured it would be better to just tell my story.
I bought the car last year & started driving it as soon as the weather was nice enough. Never noticed this issue until I took it to a shop to get the a/c to work.
First time it happened was when I was sitting in construction forever, car was running fine then it started to idle rough and shut off. It does start right back up afterwards, but same thing happens, after a short time of idling it will shut off again. Some times if I press down the gas it will run a little longer, but eventually it will shut off on me
Replaced the fuel filter, then drove it a few more times after the first incident. Same thing happened! After that I parked the car and have been driving my truck.
While it has been parked I have replaced a ton of things:
oxgen sensor, ignition control module, ported vacuum switch aka tvv, all new silicone vacuum hose, water pump..also blew out the radiator to get rid of any dirt build up. Tested the afm and the chts and it was fine.
After all of that, I STILL have the same problem.
Thinking about replacing the fuel pump next, because it seems to shut off right before the car begins to shake and idle rough. is the fuel pump the problem or is it something else? ?
I'm seriously out of ideas, so any help is appreciated!!
I need some help trying to figure out whats wrong with my 82 280zx n/a auto.
I am having serious stalling issues!! I've read almost every post on here with similar problems as mine, but figured it would be better to just tell my story.
I bought the car last year & started driving it as soon as the weather was nice enough. Never noticed this issue until I took it to a shop to get the a/c to work.
First time it happened was when I was sitting in construction forever, car was running fine then it started to idle rough and shut off. It does start right back up afterwards, but same thing happens, after a short time of idling it will shut off again. Some times if I press down the gas it will run a little longer, but eventually it will shut off on me
Replaced the fuel filter, then drove it a few more times after the first incident. Same thing happened! After that I parked the car and have been driving my truck.
While it has been parked I have replaced a ton of things:
oxgen sensor, ignition control module, ported vacuum switch aka tvv, all new silicone vacuum hose, water pump..also blew out the radiator to get rid of any dirt build up. Tested the afm and the chts and it was fine.
After all of that, I STILL have the same problem.
Thinking about replacing the fuel pump next, because it seems to shut off right before the car begins to shake and idle rough. is the fuel pump the problem or is it something else? ?
I'm seriously out of ideas, so any help is appreciated!!
08-04-2012 | 02:51 PM
#2
The Good Twin
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 20,639
From: Wild Wild West, UTAH!
Welcome to ZDriver! 
When trouble shooting, don't just go replace parts hoping that will fix the problem (unless you have tons of $$$ burning a hole in your pocket).
Have you tested the fuel pressure?
If the fuel pump shuts off, that would be the first thing to investigate... check the relay & fuel pump wiring.
Have the fuel pump been humming any louder lately?
When trouble shooting, don't just go replace parts hoping that will fix the problem (unless you have tons of $$$ burning a hole in your pocket).
Have you tested the fuel pressure?
If the fuel pump shuts off, that would be the first thing to investigate... check the relay & fuel pump wiring.
Have the fuel pump been humming any louder lately?
08-04-2012 | 06:09 PM
#3
Grumpy & Helpful
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,415
From: Mill Creek WA
here is some general advice to get to a point where you can start effectively trouble shooting.
Get your battery load tested. Be sure you have clean, tight corrosion free terminals on both ends of your battery cables. Be sure the ground (negative) cable goes to a bolt into the frame before going to the starter. grounding through the starter is not a reliable connection. Z's don't like low voltage. causes the electronics to act funny. it is possible to have enough amps to crank but not enough voltage to run the electronics. If you have one size fit all cheapo clamp on terminals they are a problem waiting to happen.
Clean the connectors for the maf, ecu and tps. Deoxit by CAIG is probably the best connector cleaner on the market. spray with CorrosionX after cleaning and before putting together this will help prevent any further corrosion.
may not fix your paraticular problem but eliminates a lot of the gremlins that throw you off when troubleshooting. it does sound heat related because of the long idle in traffic but you don't mention any overheating problem. get some data like fuel pressure at the injectors. possible your fpr does flip flops when hot but without some real numbers hard to tell anything. if you have the original factory battery cables with the strap type clamp i have had them crack. they seem to tighten and work but you hit a bump and everything quits.
Get your battery load tested. Be sure you have clean, tight corrosion free terminals on both ends of your battery cables. Be sure the ground (negative) cable goes to a bolt into the frame before going to the starter. grounding through the starter is not a reliable connection. Z's don't like low voltage. causes the electronics to act funny. it is possible to have enough amps to crank but not enough voltage to run the electronics. If you have one size fit all cheapo clamp on terminals they are a problem waiting to happen.
Clean the connectors for the maf, ecu and tps. Deoxit by CAIG is probably the best connector cleaner on the market. spray with CorrosionX after cleaning and before putting together this will help prevent any further corrosion.
may not fix your paraticular problem but eliminates a lot of the gremlins that throw you off when troubleshooting. it does sound heat related because of the long idle in traffic but you don't mention any overheating problem. get some data like fuel pressure at the injectors. possible your fpr does flip flops when hot but without some real numbers hard to tell anything. if you have the original factory battery cables with the strap type clamp i have had them crack. they seem to tighten and work but you hit a bump and everything quits.
08-05-2012 | 02:52 PM
#7
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 4
From: Pennsylvania
08-05-2012 | 06:11 PM
#8
Mr Z++ Wiki
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 2,195
From: Victoria, BC
You should have two grounds at least IMHO. Your main heavy lead goes to the starter and the second to the chasis. I also highly recomend taking a 10 gauge from the battery negative to the ECU then from the ECU to the intake plenum where most of the sensors live.
08-20-2012 | 08:30 AM
#10
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 4
From: Pennsylvania
I think I found the problem. The fuel pump relay that is located under the dash/behind the glove box area was really 'yucky' lol .. I cleaned the connections & bought a new relay. The car idled for about 20 mins, so Im hoping my problem is fixed. Will know for sure this week, bc I am driving it to my classes. 
